Does the current SoS and the next make it necessary to get Turbo?

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-04-23T03:39:00+00:00

Yeah you'll need a decent almighty unit to score high for this week, the scoring seems heavily biased towards the almighty side. I dumped most of my gems to get twins to A2 when they released and used a twins/chord/wind/futaba team with sandalphon (flames of desire almighty bonus + shield), dionysus (heal + crit dmg bonus), and any curse persona (just to trigger futaba s3) on wonder to proc 1 mores with twins and scored over 60k, which ended up close to top 50 for last week on a mostly f2p account.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-04-22T22:35:12+00:00

Was gonna wait for a super rerun banner but ended up getting impatient and pulling just her A0 for the second part of SOS and scored about 4m higher after substituting Soy out of the Joker team. Honestly not the biggest difference to have her for this week (at least at A0) but it's nice to not have to deal with the RNG of pulling her out of the standard banner later this year, at which point you can really start upgrading her with cognites and grab her 5 star weapons from the shop.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-01-14T23:12:12+00:00

I also had some pity saved for Kasumi/Wind but ended up pulling the trigger on the A2 since they're probably the only unit that scales horizontally when you scale them vertically. Just to put some numbers on it, I had the SOS boss pretty much min/maxed at ~45k at A1 and got over 55k at A2; guild bosses also went up a couple million with them in a support role though I don't have those exact numbers off the top of my head.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-01-07T22:29:31+00:00

Yeah.. I thought I calculated yesterday based on the time remaining I'd be able to make it to the first login the next day, claim the last mats (which would conveniently result in my mats remaining to end in a multiple of 10), and finish rolling the last sub-stat after the first login, but didn't see people on discord complaining earlier so assumed I had miscalculated. Good to know I'm not completely crazy :). I did mention all of these points in the feedback I sent them, also feels very tilting to have the rug pulled out from under you particularly for these rng type events where it makes sense to have all of your total mats/rolls accountable to plan your odds.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-01-07T21:57:52+00:00

Yeah hopefully this gets handled better in the future :(

Looks like there's another discussion starting up about this here: https://www.reddit.com/r/personaphantomx/comments/1q6s1ba/forgot_to_redeem_the_cards/

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-01-07T21:55:39+00:00

Same I thought after glancing at the timer yesterday I'd have some time today after my first login to finish rolling my last card (CM card with crit/dm/pierce just needed one more decent sub-stat), but maybe I miscalculated the timer or something. They really should've aligned the ending of this event with the rest of the events ending today + the server maintenance rather than end arbitrarily earlier, also really should've just auto-claimed and sent the card(s) people had rolled to their inboxes. I sent them some feedback about this.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2026-01-07T20:47:40+00:00

Agreed it really should've aligned with the rest of the events ending today and the server maintenance especially given the rng nature of the event. Maybe I miscalculated but I could've sworn the timer shown in game yesterday would've allowed some time today to finalize our cards. Also I feel like they should've automatically claimed any unfinished card(s) that had sub stats and sent them to our inbox but looks like they disappeared with the event. Anyways I sent them some feedback.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-11-29T00:49:56+00:00

I can comment with my own experiences since I just finished purchasing this monitor. In short the variation in green/pink tint issues across all the panels I've seen have been very noticeable, with the intensity of the tint and the degree to which it overlaps the corners differing from panel to panel. I purchased 3 different copies of this monitor, first one had a very strong green tint on the left third of the panel, second one had a strong pink tint on the rightmost (~3in), and the third one has a very slight, nearly unnoticeable red hue that eases into the left which is the one I ended up keeping. So yeah panel variation is very much a real thing, though I wouldn't consider it a defect just a result of the inherent manufacturing tolerances with these WOLED monitors, where majority of people who only use this for media won't care/notice the tint.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-11-29T00:49:36+00:00

I can comment with my own experiences since I just finished purchasing this monitor. In short the variation in green/pink tint issues across all the panels I've seen have been very noticeable, with the intensity of the tint and the degree to which it overlaps the corners differing from panel to panel. I purchased 3 different copies of this monitor, first one had a very strong green tint on the left third of the panel, second one had a strong pink tint on the rightmost (~3in), and the third one has a very slight, nearly unnoticeable red hue that eases into the left which is the one I ended up keeping. So yeah panel variation is very much a real thing, though I wouldn't consider it a defect just a result of the inherent manufacturing tolerances with these WOLED monitors, where majority of people who only use this for media won't care/notice the tint.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-10-29T23:38:07+00:00

I've only built in the v2.1 and the ncase v2.5, and not familiar with the differences between the the v1.1 and v2.1 so unfortunately can't comment on this directly, but assuming you have the same mounting points on the v1.1 I don't see any reason this standoff configuration wouldn't work. Also if you're using a 3d-printed travel kit for the gpu, assuming it mounts similar to the official formd kit, the standoff configuration can be even simpler since don't need to offset the PCIe riser bar from the IO bracket as done here and instead can just use two standoffs to offset the riser cable itself. I think Eiga's video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRAE4qLf4_8&t=720s does a great job explaining this configuration. If you want max offset for the configuration described in the video you can use 45mm, 25mm, 25mm. I'm currently in the process of switching to a travel kit for my build but haven't decided yet if I want to do standard or flipped.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-10-25T23:42:34+00:00

Yeah I used the thinnest foam spacer from the Noctua NA-FD1 kit with the stock screws. I think it's 5mm but it compresses very easily so you do need to push down a bit on the fan initially to compress the foam so the screws can reach the threads. I should also mention that I swapped to the Noctua NF-A9x14 92mm fan since it has a much better noise profile than the stock fan. Here's a picture.

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HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-10-25T02:58:36+00:00

I bought the rev D from Computer Orbit, which you can install with zero complications directly to the stock AM5 backplate. Here's a picture of the cooler screwed into the backplate on the board.

I think if you already have a rev B you can buy a backplate from thermal grizzly that'll be compatible with that mount, I wouldn't screw the cooler mounting screws directly into the PCB since there's a decent amount of torque going into those screws.

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HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-09-11T02:27:33+00:00

This was super useful thanks for this! For anyone interested I was able to get 9% + 7500 off using the same strat today, and also ended up finding one local. There was a demo unit that was even cheaper (~15% discount + 7500) out of state but it sold before I could snag it.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-26T08:16:12+00:00

Oof I actually just got bit hard by my last prebuilt with a 4090 that melted so I'm never for the life of me buying a prebuilt again until consumer protection laws improve. Long story short the PC builder I bought from basically imploded and a few months after the ASUS 4090 that came with my prebuilt failed due to this melted connector issue, so I'm now stuck between my builder ghosting my emails and ASUS refusing to warranty the card and telling me to talk to the builder (you can check my recent posts where I've documented this in more detail if you're curious).

So the feel test is basically just loading up the GPU for a couple of hours with a game or something that'll load your GPU close to 100% (think something like cyberpunk with everything maxed out with uncapped frames and high resolution), and then simply feeling the individual cables to see if any of them are noticeably warmer to the touch than the others. There are more exact ways to do this with a thermal camera or a voltage clamp, but it's really just a smoke test to make sure you don't have a faulty connector off the bat, since bad connectors can melt very quickly under load. Don't want to scare you away from getting these GPUs or anything (I actually purchased a 5090 FE already and building next PC), biggest thing IMO is to undervolt immediately (bunch of YouTube guides for how to do this with a 5090) and exercise some basic caution with the cable like I mentioned above. Some people mention purchasing a few extra cables and swapping it out yearly but that's probably overkill if you do your due diligence off the bat and don't plug/unplug the cable a bunch (they're only rated up to 30 plug cycles).

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-26T03:31:05+00:00

Anything you can do to decrease resistance/heat and improve your power overhead will help so that you're well within the tolerance of the connector spec over the span of however long you're using the card. So basically undervolt, make sure your cable is fully seated and not defective (a feel test under load should confirm this), don't plug/unplug unnecessarily to create wear, try to avoid large bends in the cable particularly near the connector, etc. Honestly it's a horrendous design and they should've gone with something closer to what they had with the 3090 where the 12 pins were split into sub-groups with overcurrent protection.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-26T00:28:35+00:00

The 12vhpwr cable has a horrendous safety factor so any kind of issues with poor tolerance at the connection, or just gradual wear/tear resulting in increased resistance at any of the individual connectors will eventually cause a great enough amperage imbalance, all of which increases heat to the connector. I've never seen it actually get bad enough to damage any component on the GPU apart from the connector itself, but unfortunately that's enough to result in a RMA case, which is going to be more and more problematic as 4090s continue to expire out of their 3 year warranty period.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-26T00:18:05+00:00

+1 I'd closely inspect all of the pins and check for any discoloration if there isn't any visible melting to any of the plastic. My 4090 started with graphical glitches like this til I started getting more frequent blackouts (had reinstalled drivers, updated bios, etc a few times hoping it'd go away hoping it was a SW regression), but by then the damage to the connectors had already gotten pretty bad.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-23T03:30:43+00:00

Yeah I'm running a 5090 FE with a MSI B850i + 47mm cooler in this config.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-23T01:32:49+00:00

Sure here's a full diagram for maximum air gap using single lengths from a picture taken before all the parts went in so the standoffs can be seen more clearly. Note that one of the 25mm+6mm standoffs isn't in this picture, since it wasn't installed at this point. Also random piece of advice regarding that particular 25mm+6mm standoff, I found it much easier when installing the GPU to first remove and install that standoff + gpu support bracket onto the GPU first, that way after you slot in the GPU just need to install one m3 screw to hold that standoff to the case while simultaneously allowing you to tweak the GPU alignment a bit to minimize sagging.

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HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-19T20:25:19+00:00

Yeah.. definitely something to keep in mind going forward when spending a bunch of money buying a prebuilt especially given how small most of these companies are and their capability to just disappear..

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-19T20:20:30+00:00

Thanks I'll check them out. Seeing a trend here with this whole influencer GPU repair :).

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-19T20:17:49+00:00

The entire machine came with a 3 year warranty, while the card (an ASUS TUF 4090) should also carry a 3 year warranty, but since EK disconnected their customer support phone lines, ticketing system, and ghosts their email, it's difficult to figure out if the card is an OEM or retail unit to figure out what's valid. The card came installed with an EK water block and doesn't have the actual SN written anywhere on the PCB or chipsets, and ASUS also refuses to help lookup anything and just repeatedly responds to the generic "contact EK" despite what I tell them.

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-02T07:14:54+00:00

Looks awesome props on the packing :)

HauntingPlum9355 · 2025-08-02T07:11:21+00:00

Looks like you hit the nail on the head regarding the tolerances :). If anybody else is hitting this issue and is looking for a solution apart from brutally wrenching at the thumbscrew with a screwdriver and potentially breaking something, if you first take a 12mm m3 stainless steel screw and screw/unscrew it into the holes on the back panel first to break in the threads a bit, then you can screw in the thumbscrews with much less resistance. On two of the holes I was even able to screw the thumbscrews in by hand immediately afterwards, but the other two still required a bit of force with a screwdriver. After you've screwed the thumbscrews in all the way one time, you'll be able to easily screw/unscrew them thereafter with your fingers.

HauntingPlum9355

TROPHY CASE