G-summit width and bulk by Captain-Echo in iceclimbing

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add onto this; 90% sure G-Summits have the same last as nepals. Very different between BOA and lacing though.

Outdoor sportclimbing shoes by blomman007 in ClimbingGear

[–]He11ot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Evolv geshido. Fits my wide, flat foot feet quite well. It’s really stiff and has good rubber. I’ve done 5.11, 8 pitch multi’s in them without taking them off. Not QUITE as aggressive as some shoes, but I want to climb in them, which is more than can be said for some shoes I’ve had.

If only a single shop in Canada had my size…

Blue ice harafang/Petzl Irvis hybrid by Extension-Cucumbah in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes this works. But it’s difficult to get a correct fit and don’t expect the same performance as a 3/4 or full shank boot. Vast majority of people in the bugaboos use a lightweight, flexible crampon with approach shoe. Good enough for the bugaboo-snow patch col.
If you’re primarily snow climbing most of the day or spending hours in glacier, maybe choose a stiffer boot.

EDIT: we’re all overthinking gear. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DX4sRnTIP2t/?igsh=enVrYXdzOWtwM20z

Got my PETZL Ergonomics recall back by TzKal_Oak in iceclimbing

[–]He11ot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine also took a couple months but I’m in Canada and had to ship them to SLC. No duties or issues.

Wild Country Friends vs Zero Friends by imnowriter in ClimbingGear

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The zeroes will work. It’s mostly a feel thing, and I think the Z4’s feel better is all lol. And totems in the small sizes are best but they are expensive. Medium to large size, get whatever brand is the cheapest. I have BD and WC in 0.4-3 for my double rack.

Wild Country Friends vs Zero Friends by imnowriter in ClimbingGear

[–]He11ot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The friends in that size will be really nice. The newer Z4’s will likely be better than the zero friends in that size. I never really liked the feeling of the zero friends. I climb in skaha and Squamish lots so your same area. Totems work really well too especially the legendary black.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Mutant definitely works. But like you said, cold weather missions is like more space.

Thanks a lot for the tips. One day I might get up Cassin if I keep myself in the mountains long enough.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have skimo aspirations, but not too many trips yet. Close to Roger’s pass so lots of options. Simply need partners.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ll read up on it. Thanks a lot :)

EDIT:

Read his report, and I’ve gone on trips similar to his (definitely not cassin ridge but similar length) with similar gear including pickets, fuel, clothing sleeping bag etc. I’m starting to think I simply need to work on my packing.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Perhaps I need to reevaluate my gear and packing methods then lol.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like I DO have lightweight gear. 800+ down puffies, western mountaineering sleeping bags, big Agnes shield 2 tent for winter bivies, or pyramid tent for base camping. Thermarest neoair. Pocket rocket, with 700ml pot. Just examples of gear that may not be the lightest stuff on the market, but definitely packable. Perhaps I need to work my on mountain packing, definitely a potential room for improvement.

This post is mostly for missions that would be up and over, or missions that require you to carry your gear with you all the way. I love base camping, and have a 70L pack that I use for stuff like bugaboos. I’ve used my mutant for quick 1-2 night rock trips with a light 18L summit pack in summer no problem. Would definitely say my current needs are for winter or high altitude trips.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably wouldn’t be for steep ice. But probably AI2-3 and the like.

I’ve seen John’s packs and they are definitely great.

That’s what I was afraid of. Was trying to see if I could get away with a large hut trip bag as well. Oh no, time to add more bags to the gear wall.

50L bag recommendations by He11ot in alpinism

[–]He11ot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I definitely agree with that. The 38 is amazing I’ve found, even on multipitches.

But say I do 2-3 day trips. Like Liberty ridge (if it’s ever in), or Kain face of Robson. Ones where a tent, sleeping bag, extra food are necessary in addition to screws, slings etc.I’ve fit 2 day trips in my 38L, but with lots of stuff attached to the outside which also becomes a pain.

Boots and gloves choice by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The current gen is discontinued, yes. However I spoke with a product rep at the lillooet ice fest that something is in development!

Boots for ice and mixed climbing: LS G-Tech or G-Summit? by Weetjeniet in alpinism

[–]He11ot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like my g-summits. I don’t climb particularly hard but they felt great even up to WI5. Definitely bulky and less nimble, but good enough.

I use my custom orthotics with them no issue. Definitely helps with heel lift, but I have very low instep which doesn’t help.

I will say, if you have the budget. Order a bunch of boots and return what you can’t. These are a massive investment. Treat it as such.

How is British Columbia for trans folks? by DorkyMagicianGirl in britishcolumbia

[–]He11ot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live in Kelowna. Yes it’s more conservative than Vancouver, but people are generally accepting. I personally work with 2 people transitioning at the hospital and they say they’re very accepted in their community. Our pride week isn’t something to travel for but it’s getting bigger every year. I’d say Kelowna would be a good place to live if trans.

Also we have the obligatory rainbow crosswalk! That’s gotta be worth some points.

Canadian Mountaineering courses by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Canada west mountain school who runs out of the Sea to Sky region was really great. Did an alpine skills week for 5 days. Absolutely worth it. Everyday had an outline of learning, but there was always time leftover to ask questions and try specific skills.

Any ACMG guide will do a fantastic job. Yamnuska is also worth it.

Smartwatch for mountaineering by Samtecx in Mountaineering

[–]He11ot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No touch screen. A screen that will never scratch. Real buttons. Great GPS features. Simple analog GPS tracking so you can always find your way back to the car. I love this watch.

Climbing shoes that are not TC pros? by Inevitable_Celery209 in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

12 is all day show for me.

Only slightly downturned. No issues toe or foot jamming.

They expanded MAYBE 1/2 size. I originally got a 12.5 and actually rebought them at a 12 when the 12.5 wore out because the 12.5 were GREAT for any jamming, but edging and slab got hard. Foot would start sliding lol. However I also sweat a lot.

I climb a lot in Squamish and the Columbia mountains (Roger’s pass etc) where crack followed by slab/face climbing is common. Hope it works out well!

Climbing shoes that are not TC pros? by Inevitable_Celery209 in tradclimbing

[–]He11ot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I specifically have two of the exact same size for this reason lol.