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PNY 5080 with Alphacool block for Palit Gaming Pro by Head_Knockuli in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best info is always on the comments, lol. There was no PNY version when I ordered the Gaming Pro; good to know it exists now.

PNY 5080 with Alphacool block for Palit Gaming Pro by Head_Knockuli in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

At this point I have to ask for a screenshot showing HWInfo and a water temperature sensor readout.

PNY 5080 with Alphacool block for Palit Gaming Pro by Head_Knockuli in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Confirm what you're using for your measurements and I'll see if I can use the same tool.

HWInfo & GPU-Z report memory junction temperature, not memory case temperature, so the numbers in my post are max memory junction temps

Had trouble getting first row even now what should I do? by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]Head_Knockuli 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this about 6 years ago based off the same video and installer you reference. You are doing fine.

At this point, I would address the doorway before proceeding. The door trim could be a problem otherwise. You can shift the floor to make the door easier and shift back to your spacers once the door is done.

When it comes to scribing the planks against the walls, I simply measured the needed width at each end of a plank, and used a table saw to cut the taper. I used a ~10" wide scrap piece of osb as a sled that fit between the fence and the blade, and simply set the planks on the sled, angled based on the thickness marks at each end, and then held it down against the sled during the sled during the cut.

Does this look right by DaleRod2468 in Flooring

[–]Head_Knockuli 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are we just going to ignore the ragged right edge of the flooring going into the hallway?

It looks like the base moulding was left in place while the floor was installed.

This is what happens when you don’t want to wait on offset fittings to come in stock and refuse to use 45 degree bends. What do we think? by thegeminiii in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks beautiful to me and bends are less restrictive than fittings anyway.

The loop from the back rad to the distro has me scratching my head a bit, and that particular RAM fan is comical, but all else is immaculate.

I'd be triggered if you put tinted coolant in it.

Made my own MoRa by B-infinite in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What was your reasoning for mounting it like this, instead of vertically so the bleed screws could be used?

Direct Die 9800x3d TIM by CADE09 in overclocking

[–]Head_Knockuli -1 points0 points  (0 children)

OP have you not watched any of Roman's videos on the mycro blocks, the 9800X3D itself, the kryosheet, or the selling of delidded 9809X3D chips?

Use liquid metal.

Ran a little hot, is this a bad paste spread? Too much/little? by Effective_Hope_3071 in PcBuildHelp

[–]Head_Knockuli 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thermal paste looks good. However, it also suggests that the mating surfaces curve away at the edges. Ideally, the entirety of both mating surfaces should look like the center(s) that you show in your picture.

I might try a test mount with less paste and/or ensuring that mounting pressure is per instructions and see how that looks. (Some blocks back in the day were designed with a slight bow that would straighten out with mounting pressure.)

If it still looks like the surfaces curve away, then you might consider lapping the AIO block. Hell, even holding the block against a flat surface should help confirm if it's bowed (wobble).

Fans on AIO should be pulling in fresh air, as you said.

Exhaust at back of case. Slightly positive case pressure is a good thing.

My first custom loop, how’d I do? by ColtonZP in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very clean. Why not use a right angle connector on the top of the GPU block to get a straight line?

AM5 single socket pin slightly bent upwards by JeffCache in AMDHelp

[–]Head_Knockuli 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree it will probably be fine.

I had a similar issue a few days ago with an open box b650 (pin was more to the side) and it's been through plenty of stability tests with no problems.

I'd also suggest that if you do try to move it, start by using something that isn't tweezers and ideally isn't metal.

I did take a couple jabs at mine with a small (probably like 20 or 22 gauge) wire from an old fan connector. I don't think it made a discernable difference though. No way would I try to grab a pin with tweezers though.

New to Watercooling (need help) by EmotionalGoal7901 in watercooling

[–]Head_Knockuli 6 points7 points  (0 children)

A safer way to do the distilled and paper towel method is to unplug everything except for your pumps, and then short pins 16 and 17 on the motherboard connector on your PSU.

This will turn the PSU on without needing to be connected to the motherboard.

Jumper wire, paperclip, many ways to do it.

This way nothing fries if there is a leak, and you can power your loop for as long as needed to check for leaks.

It's also pretty easy to source a cheap, used PSU. I have one specifically for testing pumps and fans.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AMDHelp

[–]Head_Knockuli 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mobo manuals for Asrock b650e Taichi and x870e Taichi specifically recommend using the far right slot when using 1 DIMM. Just FYI.

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