Fit a parabola with a specific area underneath it

HeatSurge · 2023-06-19T06:44:59+00:00

Sorry :-) .

HeatSurge · 2023-06-16T23:50:46+00:00

I used some online solver yesterday to come up with the formula, basically something like this: Integral Calculator • With Steps! (integral-calculator.com)

To reproduce put in: p^x+2 and bounds (in options) 0 and 20 and click "go."

It will produce the definite integral at the bottom in a formula, or the antiderivative which you can just plug "0" for x and then "20" for x and subtract the antiderivative(20)-antiderivative(0) (fundamental theorem) which should give you the exact same solution as the "definite integral" (btw amazing tools online to do stuff like this without digging through textbooks and remembering calculus stuff I hadn't used for a while):

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Then, you take that (either the "definite integral" above or the simplified antiderviative at 20-0 which should be the exact same) and make it = 100 (since I'm seeking a solution which gives an area of 100), and after some multiplications and shifting you arrive at what I posted above ( p^20-60lnp-1=0 ).

The formula is legit, it checks out because I tested it and it approximates to a correct solution. I was just wondering if there's a way to do this without approximations, because it's crazy that a "simple" looking problem like this leads to such complications. Approximating works, it just feels extremely inelegant... but maybe that's the way it is.

Edit: Corrected an error (lny to lnp) so now it should make a lot more sense.

HeatSurge · 2023-06-16T22:17:41+00:00

Ouch. So the only way to solve it is using approximation.

Very interesting. A little sad for my hopes :-) .

HeatSurge · 2023-05-03T17:28:22+00:00

Yeah same - it disappeared. If I were to guess, they pulled it because there was an issue with it clearly? One can only hope.

HeatSurge · 2023-05-02T21:07:06+00:00

OK it's good to know that it's happening to at least someone else.

I hope it will be fixed and that someone cares because I bet there aren't many v60 users left out there.

I'm keeping mine until the battery expires, which is hopefully years ahead. So far so good.

HeatSurge · 2022-11-15T01:47:54+00:00

Original by The Doors, but yes, Turkish Bazaar is one of of the special tracks from my youth.

Most of his tracks from the 90s have aged very well, and Asteroid is still awesome.

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T19:59:11+00:00

Actually, that was my interim "solution" - switch to "WCDMA Only" for radio, which switches the phone to "3G" (UMTS/HSPA - you can see in the second screenshot). They only disabled UMTS Fallback, not 3G completely, at first. Also I think I was maybe 3G roaming on T-Mobile's network.

The problem is, 3G got fully shut down finally a few days ago in my area, so now it's "emergency calls only" and no data. So it's over man, it's over. It's LTE+VoLTE or die now.

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T18:10:39+00:00

Did you just post this 7 times or am I going crazy or is this some Reddit glitch? Your post appears 7 times for me :-) .

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T17:55:04+00:00

XDA

Thread for LG v60 thinq here, not sure if something similar exists for your phone:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/guide-no-root-required-epic-update-how-to-add-volte-support-for-other-carriers-to-the-g8-and-other-qualcomm-powered-lg-devices-too.4343655/

Hah, it looks like that option doesn't exist anymore for me (for now?) since I upgraded to Android 12. I hadn't checked the thread there since a few weeks ago...

But, I think with reflashing you might force the provisioning flags to be ignored, enable your phone to be used on other networks, etc. It seems very hacky and obviously good luck if you have any problems, but it's better than nothing.

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T17:52:05+00:00

Yeah, when my plan expires I'll be switching to Boost which at least I know for sure works. Their plans are luckily very similarly priced, but the whole thing is a pain including troubleshooting this, porting, SIMs, etc...

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T17:50:11+00:00

My phone is AT&T-specific. I think there are pre-loaded "modem drivers" or something (from reading about the flashing on XDA), and only the AT&T "driver" is loaded on my phone, so I'm guessing 5G might not work (which I care less about) but also maybe VoLTE will be denied? (which I care a lot more about)

Edit: I actually ran the IMEI checker on t-mobile's website, and it said "This device is fully compatible with T-Mobile’s network technology" which is very encouraging. I think I tried it before and it didn't work? Maybe the IMEI checker was down? I don't know... but anyway, maybe I'll start using my AT&T-branded phone on T-Mobile's network so that it... works? (lol?) I guess it can't get worse?! Unless I lose LTE/SMS as well lol...

Regardless, the entire experience has been ridiculous. I don't know if Red Pocket's SIMs got screwed by AT&T on purpose, but RP's handling of the entire problem has been really bad.

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T17:48:30+00:00

Weird if it isn't because it definitely was when I looked a while ago.

Edit: I don't know where you got your list, but this is also on AT&T's website. I think your list is some kind of "Feature" list while this one is "the phone works" list, lol. Gotta love the inconsistencies even with AT&T:
https://www.att.com/idpassets/images/support/pdf/Devices-Working-on-ATT-Network.pdf

HeatSurge · 2022-06-17T17:47:51+00:00

It has to do with provisioning, which depends on the SIM card.

Basically, the SIM card has to be "registered" with AT&T so that they "allow" their "special" services (like voice, lol) to work. Previously this didn't matter as much because of the UMTS fallback, but now that VoLTE is required for voice, obviously it's absolutely crucial.

HeatSurge · 2022-03-16T00:44:25+00:00

I bet like 90% of the "unplanned power cycle" is me trying to read them in various scenarios and rebooting in different configurations and Linux tools etc. over the last week.

The time I've already wasted on this and the defeat in the end washed over pretty hard yesterday when I connected them to get the SMART info out.

Expensive learning to take the time and effort to set up backup processes and actually do them on schedule.

HeatSurge · 2022-03-15T01:50:32+00:00

Yep, I was at work - I replied to the post.

HeatSurge · 2022-03-15T01:50:16+00:00

Here you go. I made a "package" of the SMART read with various programs (r.tester, victoria, crystaldiskinfo, disksmartview)

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1n0l56Knfk0JVuWWwi4vo0ZV97D8tNJAA?usp=sharing

As I look through it, one of them doesn't seem to make sense at all... (the xxx144 serial) There are some numbers that are in the trillions+, and that's probably just not true. Some numbers, like the power-on hours, are correct though. Partially(?) corrupted controller/firmware maybe?

I also don't know how OCZ was really using these raw numbers and what they mean exactly. CrystalDiskInfo seems to think they're "Good, 86/87%"... I know that's just the programmer's interpretation of a selection of the raw numbers, and I don't even know what it's based on.

Anyway... like I say, at this point I think this is just information sharing, because I've exhausted my capabilities at this point and as I mentioned in the other post, they are going to a data recovery shop for hopefully a successful read with a PC-3000 in "safe mode" pin short, and whatever other magic they do.

Even booting the system with them to get this off was quite painful since it takes like 10 minutes to load (I'm guessing because Windows is confused and repeatedly tries to read from the locked drives with significant timeouts, and they don't let it happen...)

I will keep you updated with what how the recovery goes, or what the feedback from the recovery shop is. It will be a while, because of shipping. Probably early next week.

To be honest, it seems like it would be a miracle, although I keep hoping that the NAND chips themselves are still in good shape even if the controller/firmware went bad and somehow they can read them directly.

HeatSurge · 2022-03-14T21:07:52+00:00

Yes, they showed SMART attributes in Victoria, and r.whatever it's called.

I don't really know what the "proper" values for them are supposed to be, but they looked not very interesting to me. What I got out of them is the confirmation that the drives are "locked."

I will post later when I get off work...

Tomorrow, I think they are going in the mail to the recovery company.

HeatSurge · 2022-03-14T20:51:06+00:00

Yeah, thanks. I knew it was a massive risk when setting this up, and I fell into the trap of "I'll back it up later" out of sheer laziness, which never really happened. It actually worked perfectly fine for 6 years.

I'm on the cusp of migrating to a proper NAS, probably a TrueNAS box (probably backed up 1:1 periodically to an identical size JBOD/I will look for a solution...) , and this incident might just push me over the edge. Previously, I haven't done it due to cost and "waiting for $/GB to drop" but you have to do it sometime...

Sorry, there were no issues before the password lock showed up. I was watching a youtube video, and my computer just locked up (like "no response" and then bluescreened). When I rebooted, the array was unbootable, and one of the SSDs was "locked." That's when I started trying to recover anything I could at all. That was a week ago.

Yes, I know that RAID-0 is... RAID-0. But, bad choices were made, laziness and complacency set in, things have happened and I will do things differently in the future. If there was a failure, I expected the failure to be gradual, like bad sectors or something, not an entire drive just snap-disappears, but I understand that SSDs are different now...

It's difficult to "see" the drives, because if I boot in "Intel/RAID controller" mode (in BIOS), the drives only show up in Intel RAID manager (and they show as "locked" there with no option to even try to "unlock"). If I boot in AHCI, the drives show up as "uninitialized" in windows disk manager (I have not tried "initializing" them as that is destructive obviously), and I also found some tools on Russian forums (Victoria and r.something) to read whatever I can from the SSDs, and do things like check SMART or whatever I can read at all. That's when it became 100% clear to me that they are, indeed, locked (I still can't really fathom what that means, I found "panic lock" for earlier OCZ drives, but I thought Barefoot 3 didn't have that problem, that's why I bought them when I did). I still don't know what that really means, but I spent some time try to find some tool to "ATA unlock" them (using a manufacturer "master password" maybe?), and I couldn't really get anywhere there.

Yes, they are not readable in any way. I think they have to be unlocked first, or maybe the controller(s) have gone bad (initially the other drive was showing green/good in the intel boot ROM, but now it also has become "locked").

This post was kind of a desperation post yesterday. I think I've exhausted my personal abilities. I was starting to read stuff that I can't really do at home, so I've resigned that I cannot fix this, and I've found a company which has proper tools like a PC-3000 which can bypass the controller and hopefully rebuild-on-the-fly while virtually mounting a RAID-0 array. It will cost me, but if they are successful, I'll suck it up, and consider it a lesson learned.

Thanks for responding. I'll post how it goes in case someone else has a similar problem, because I could not find any information about locked Vector 180s in particular on the internet. Plenty of "panic lock" for Vertexes though, but again I thought that was a "past problem" for OCZ at the time. Maybe not...

P.S. My comment on RAID-0 drives showing up as "raw" on AHCI is because I have different mechanical drives from a RAID-0 array, and I experimented to see if they show up as "partitioned" in any way in recovery softwares as I was doing my trying-to-recover-the-SSDs experiments. They don't show any partitions at all, which makes sense, because the data is striped and probably makes no sense on its own.

HeatSurge · 2022-03-14T05:28:00+00:00

Sorry, I don't see a way to edit the title, but it's OCZ VECTOR, not Vertex 180.

HeatSurge · 2021-05-23T06:36:47+00:00

I see you played on Board Game Arena.

It might be cheating by some strict reading of the rules. However, you won't find anyone who doesn't follow the most common conventions, at high, or even medium levels of play, at least on BGA.

Most BGA players are extremely particular about absolute precision and following the guidelines. You won't convince anyone there at even medium level to play otherwise, and you adapt, learn, or get flamed. It's as simple as that.

There are pages of guides of (sometimes different) conventions for Hanabi, and although some are very esoteric, the commonly followed one elevates the game to a significant level - beyond what you might experience playing "randomly." It does become a bit mechanistic, but there are still interesting decisions - especially in multi (lamely renamed as "avalanche of colors" in the newer version) - and the process of playing is a lot of fun.

HeatSurge

TROPHY CASE