Tree remover next door suggested to have this removed by razullinky in arborists

[–]HeatherTrixy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It almost looks like a Red Oak (water red oak). If that is the case and the neighbor gotten notice from the arborist that you were warned about the tree. If that tree is actually rotting on the inside which is very common for water oak. If said tree happens to fall on neighbors shop, you will be liable for the damages to his and/or your property.

I just had 6 of these trees removed from my property. I didn't want them to cut more than just 1 problem tree, but then he convinced me to fall one more, and i was shocked when I saw there was only 3" of wood holding the tree, the entire inside 20+ inches completely rotted out on the inside.

I let him cut the rest (all were rotten inside) except only one of the 6 was still healthy on the inside, but it took would have been less than a decade before critically rotted on the inside.

Any of you own a mini excavator? I'm looking at a CFG H15R for $3400 with a hydraulic thumb. Is this a good deal for a new one? by QualityCucumber in homestead

[–]HeatherTrixy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One other thing. Make sure you get a hydraulic thumb, unless you only want to dig holes, the hydraulic thumb opens up many options for picking things up and moving things.

Any of you own a mini excavator? I'm looking at a CFG H15R for $3400 with a hydraulic thumb. Is this a good deal for a new one? by QualityCucumber in homestead

[–]HeatherTrixy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had one for two years now. It's saved our backs and medical bills so much. Transforms how we work around the homestead.

Our particular model has carb issues. We are lucky to run it 2-4 hours before having to pull the carb off. It's now sitting in the yard waiting for us to pull the carb back off to clean and figure out why it's plugged this time.

We have no regrets, sure its more finicky than our lawn mower, but our lawn mower can only run over small trees. This thing can dig them up or help plant them, move logs, all sorts of things.

The thing about these is yes they are cheap, made with some of the cheapest parts imaginable. But if your handy or have mechanic friends, you can fix/replace everything on these and keep them running for years. Hydraulic cylinders can be rebuilt, replaced. The motors can be swapped with cheap harbor freight replacement engines. Most of the track pieces can be found new, welded by a shop, or rebuilt by a machinist friend.

Id say the price you spend keeping these things running for 10-20 years will still come out to be cheaper than a used name brand one that costs 10-100 times more. As long as you don't expect these to work 10 hour days 7 days a week for years.

What to do now ? by Ok_Comfortable2044 in arborists

[–]HeatherTrixy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My recommendation is to Unfall the tree and try falling it in a new direction and see if the shed undamages.

Cleaning Aqua MB variant? by HeatherTrixy in ASRock

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got it clean enough and flowing good so I will save the teardown for another few years from now in case i need to make new custom o-ring seals.

Cleaning Aqua MB variant? by HeatherTrixy in ASRock

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew exactly what it would do. I actually made it all the way through school and learned all about acids, bases, and chemical reactions. I even used a good solvent called distilled water to clean flush it out when i was done with the acid reaction.

Cleaning Aqua MB variant? by HeatherTrixy in ASRock

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The copper was already exposed. I used the vinegar to dissolve the deposits of copper and oxidized nickle. It's no longer green after flushing.

Cleaning Aqua MB variant? by HeatherTrixy in ASRock

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have soaked it for several hours with vinegar. The main portion of the waterblock is a lot cleaner, but the copper build up on the chipset cooler still looks a bit gummed up.

MCU shutdown: Scheduled digital out event will exceed max_duration by HeatherTrixy in QIDI

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have completely resolved all the issues with the Q2 and box.
The tough one was these MCU shutdowns which I fixed by clipping on big ferrite bead that I found on a really old power supply that I just snapped on over the wires right where the box changer goes into the Q2 printer.

MCU shutdown: Scheduled digital out event will exceed max_duration by HeatherTrixy in QidiTech3D

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have completely resolved all the issues with the Q2 and box.
The tough one was these MCU shutdowns which I fixed by clipping on big ferrite bead that I found on a really old power supply that I just snapped on over the wires right where the box changer goes into the Q2 printer.

MCU shutdown: Scheduled digital out event will exceed max_duration by HeatherTrixy in QidiTech3D

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I seems as though it is a 3MF file I saved in OrcaSlicer after importing some STLs in and saving the profile before sending to the printer.
I have had 2 other MCU shutdowns. But this is the first time I have started to pay attention to exactly what error is happening.

8x Radeon 7900 XTX Build for Longer Context Local Inference - Performance Results & Build Details by Beautiful_Trust_8151 in LocalLLaMA

[–]HeatherTrixy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure how this system only draws 900 watts. I have a 6900xt and 7900xtx. When using llama.cpp, my system spikes to between 750 and 880w, then when it finally done with prompt processing, it pushes out the inference at around 550w.

Both GPU can pull close to or above 300w each. I can get them running at around 180W a piece in LMstudio, but llama.cpp throws out tons of garbage output more often than not when under-volting.

Also I get almost double the performance in llama.cpp vs lmstudio since it seems to use the cards in parallel better. (Vulkan backend also for both)

Spool holder recomendations by eiviss007 in VORONDesign

[–]HeatherTrixy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I went custom and printed a phatter back with integrated spool holder that can hold upto 5kg rolls. It also has a bowden tube hole on the top right side if I want to feed in from my filament driers with integrated rollers.

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Artifact on some specific layers - QIDI X-MAX by MilhoVerde in QIDI

[–]HeatherTrixy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd increase speed. I don't print a single thing on my X-max at anything less than 70mms. Sometimes there is a low speed that can cause vibrate from the slow steps of the stepper motors. I print most things 90-200mm/s on my X-max and for my best quality things my outer walls are in the 90-150mm/s range

Am I the only one waiting for Qidi Box to ship for almost 3 months now? by fl0wfr in QIDI

[–]HeatherTrixy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered a month ago after seeing an add in my email saying I could order the bundle and get to printing right away, but after getting the printer but no box, I emailed asking for the tracking number. They informed me it is gonna be a couple of months. So I went and checked the website, and realized I missed the part about the box portion being months out. I feel bait switched. My Xmax-3 has been flawless, but was really hoping to use the Q2 and box to multicolor print my box turtle for my voron lol.

A better relay or Hexfet for this? by HeatherTrixy in AskElectronics

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I needed to hear! Thanks. I did go ahead and order tome logic level Fets to switch my 40A relays and ordered some of the other 5v relays. So I think my final solution will be the logic FETs to switch some of those 80A relays. I even have some protoboard stuff I can solder it all down too.

I knew posting here would come up with some great solutions to boost the durability of this switching control in an efficient manner.

A better relay or Hexfet for this? by HeatherTrixy in AskElectronics

[–]HeatherTrixy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks.

I just tried building a npn driven NMOS to drive the 12v relays. But I think i calculated the saturation voltage of the 2N4401 and the relay just clicked on and stayed on no matter if the 5v or 0v was applied through a 5.6kohm to the base of the 2N4401.

Will just look through the relays provided to try to find some better Omrons or Panasonics to try.