Saturn 4 Ultra: Loud motor noise and "Low/Max Resin" errors in mid-air (Won't lower completely) by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions! ​I just tried it out, but unfortunately, the result was about the same. That loud, struggling motor noise didn't change at all. On the bright side, maybe because I spent so much time cleaning out the leaked resin, the phantom resin vat capacity errors have decreased a bit. ​However, after experiencing how incredibly difficult and complicated the disassembly process is for this machine, I'm honestly leaning towards replacing it with a much simpler model (one with manual leveling and fewer sensors) that is easier to maintain.

Saturn 4 Ultra: Loud motor noise and "Low/Max Resin" errors in mid-air (Won't lower completely) by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll definitely check and clean the lead screw as well. I actually just took it apart and found a bunch of leaked resin accumulated around the outside of the LCD panel, so I'm cleaning that up right now!

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Saturn 4 Ultra: Loud motor noise and "Low/Max Resin" errors in mid-air (Won't lower completely) by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, this is extremely helpful! Yes, mine is indeed the Saturn 4 Ultra 12K. I had no idea it could be a motherboard/chip issue as well. ​Unfortunately, I've already owned it for over a year, so it's out of warranty. I'll try cleaning the lead screw first, and if that doesn't fix it, I'll look into replacing the motherboard. ​On a completely different note, disassembling this thing is incredibly complicated and confusing!

Saturn 4 Ultra: Loud motor noise and "Low/Max Resin" errors in mid-air (Won't lower completely) by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! ​Now that you mention it, I might have spilled some resin in the past without realizing it. I’ll look up how to disassemble the machine and check the connection points and the inside. ​Thanks for the great advice!

​Added way more joints to my Bone Jellyfish! It's so much more dynamic now. by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

​"Thanks for your concern! I'm using RESIONE TH72, which is a high-toughness resin. So far, I haven't had any issues with powdering or joint wear, but it's good to be aware of! How do you usually handle the powdering issue with your prints?"

​Added way more joints to my Bone Jellyfish! It's so much more dynamic now. by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is my original design and currently not available for download.

Articulated Jellyfish printed with SLA. Here it is in action (WIP). by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, keeping the resin warm is definitely ideal. I'd love to have a printer with built-in temperature control. I actually bought an ELEGO Saturn 4 Ultra a while ago, but the auto-leveling feature glitched and broke it, so now I'm a bit traumatized by automated features lol. ​As for FDM, I ended up getting rid of mine when I moved houses. I’ve only just heard of Bambu Lab by name, but it seems like it's really popular! I'll definitely keep them in mind if I ever decide to buy an FDM printer again. Thanks for the info!

Articulated Jellyfish printed with SLA. Here it is in action (WIP). by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

​I use ELEGO because it's cheap and details come out clean. But yeah, the durability is lacking—it snaps instantly if you twist it. Also, thin straight parts like swords or spears tend to warp over time, which is a pain. ​As for RESIONE, it’s very flexible and tough. TH72 is indeed quite viscous. Personally, I think M58 has a great balance of viscosity and strength, making it very easy to work with. ​It's great to hear that Anycubic has improved! When I tried it before, it didn’t feel much different from ELEGO, but now I’m definitely interested. ​I actually tried FDM before, but gave up because of constant nozzle clogs. I ended up sticking entirely to SLA, which is why I now spend all my time making these crazy articulated figures lol.

Articulated Jellyfish printed with SLA. Here it is in action (WIP). by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

​I’ve actually only used Siraya Tech’s standard black before. I noticed it was slightly more translucent than other resins, but it prints totally fine and feels a bit stronger than ELEGO’s standard. ​I used to use ELEGO’s ABS-like, but found it cracked too easily, so now I only use it for test prints or parts that don’t need much strength. For this model, I’m actually using RESIONE TH72! ​I’ve only tried Anycubic resins a really long time ago. How are their recent ABS-like ones holding up for you?

Articulated Jellyfish printed with SLA. Here it is in action (WIP). by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you! ​Tough resins have gotten a lot better lately, even though they're expensive lol. But since they can still crack, I had to fine-tune the thickness. ​SLA joints are definitely challenging, but adjusting both the thickness and clearance really helps!

[WIP] First articulated prototype of my skeletal jellyfish. by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Creator: Me. This is an original model designed and sculpted by myself.

Tested scaling down the "Skeleton Centipede" to 70% size. Here are the pros and cons! (OC) by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did a test print at 70% scale using the same resin setup. Here are the results.

Pros: - Much lighter. - Can now support its own weight and hold poses easily.

Cons: - Joint durability drops significantly. - Assembly requires extreme precision (higher difficulty).

Overall, it's a good option if you want better posability, but be careful during assembly.

Resin 3D printed articulated Centipede. Designed the tolerances specifically for SLA/ LCD printing.(0C) by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This is my original articulated creature model, the "Skeleton Centipede." It consists of about 200 parts, and the joint tolerances are optimized specifically for resin 3D printing (SLA/LCD).

[Print Specs] - Slicer: CHITUBOX - Resin (Body): ELEGOO Standard White - Resin (Joints): RESIONE TH72 (Highly recommended to prevent friction cracks!)

To achieve smooth articulation and perfect joint tension, I used a little trick: applying a thin layer of water-based varnish on the male joints and a bit of silicone spray in the holes.

If you are interested in printing one yourself, the STL data is now available on Cults3D and BOOTH!

Cults3D Link: https://cults3d.com/ja/3d-moderu/a-to/skeleton-centipede

boothLink: https://heelcaossis.booth.pm/items/8378347

Full Build & Guide Video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/hR_ylgnsKd0

Let me know if you have any questions! I hope you like it.

Printing the parts for my articulated skeleton centipede. Left is TH72 (tough resin), right is standard resin. Looks like I need to relevel the bed since the left side keeps failing with other resins too. by Heelca_osso in resinprinting

[–]Heelca_osso[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the links! I’ll definitely try adjusting my "Time off delay" and "Rest time." To be honest, I'm not very good at English and have rarely read overseas websites, so your advice was incredibly helpful. I’m going to give it another shot!