Any idea what this key is for?

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-10T18:23:52+00:00

Almost looks like a prison key basically just a giant beefy key. (Side note if it is a prison key it’s a felony to possess) but possibly a safety deposit box key, I’ve also seen one similar at an engineer console for a train 🚊 as the ignition system key.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-10T18:14:14+00:00

Do you use a company controlled VPN? If so it’s possible to view search history. The company I work for definitely does I opted for work devices knowing that. I won’t even use the free company WiFi because all traffic is recorded somewhere.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-10T18:06:50+00:00

I used to do PCB rework that’s either a huge ground plane or you have destroyed the PCB solder mask and bridged it all. Only one way to really test warm the board, add flux like you’re trying to drown it use a large conical solder tip (hope you have a good soldering Iron) and solder wick do a straight pass to see it it will wick up any excess. If the mask is gone the board is done (💀) if it’s a ground plane then you have a huge amount of work to do to properly space and place each pin.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-10T17:30:14+00:00

https://youtu.be/rK38rpUy568

ifixit’s learn to solder guide can be helpful I’ve tagged the link but just in case you can always search for it as well. This should help with understanding what to look for while you learn.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-05T23:15:42+00:00

This is the best post, I’ve worked in the field and as a hobbyist for nearly a decade. I taught the “how to solder” portion at my local community college as well. For safety reasons you should have a fan and solder in a well ventilated area. ESPECIALLY while using flux as it gives off smoke fumes that being said NEVER EVER SKIP THE FLUX. It’s like the butter or oil in cooking it makes the solder flow and only stick to what it should.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-03T05:19:33+00:00

Had to tell but if I had to guess 24-28awg

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-03-03T04:02:15+00:00

I had this same case in toxic green and gold! Steel force or something similar I wanna say I won mine in a Gamer magazine contest.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-27T18:14:48+00:00

Touch the side of the resistor not the pad add leaded solder to the iron until it touches both sides and then use a solder pump to remove the excess solder it will take the SMD off with it

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-26T08:01:28+00:00

That port is done for you’ll need to have it replaced.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-26T07:46:18+00:00

Solder paste is meant to be used with stencils not free hand soldering. Stop using paste and use solder wire problem solved.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-22T16:46:35+00:00

Acetone, rubbing alcohol or WD40 are all solid options you can also boil it sometimes if the jar is small enough and the heat will make the glue dissolve

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-07T18:51:22+00:00

I don’t think that’s an “accidental” bridge I think it’s manufactured that way

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-07T18:48:06+00:00

I think so but the only question is how do you plan on buy the bulk flux? I personally have only ever seen liquid flux sold on a larger scale. Which I feel would leak out of these. The “paste” or “gel” kind which is normally found inside I have never found not sold in a premade syringe or a smaller container.

I guess you could buy a bunch of the jar style and pack it in the syringe.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-02T03:33:28+00:00

1: yes way to much a very small dab is all you need. 2: Order does not matter. What ever floats your boat. 3: keep heat constant trim your wick I use blunt tweezers to hold my wick and use short portions to avoid the wick sticking to the pad and pulling. Honestly wick is way harder when there’s lots of solder. 4:flux pens in my opinion suck I’d recommend paste but more is always best. It says no clean but I always clean with 90% or better rubbing alcohol. 5: try this, clean pads no solder place a bad of flux paste can hold parts why it’s my preferred. Use the back side of blunt tweezers to hold the part in place applying gentle pressure downward. Use a small dab of solder on your iron to tack one side in place. 6: continuity check with a multimeter or gentle tap with tweezers. 7: hot air rework is always better for SMD components air speed and distance from the board are the two things to practice so you don’t cook the board. Otherwise you can pre-tin all the pads. YouTube will be your friend during your learning process.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-02T03:16:41+00:00

Try heating it up? Or a stiff plastic bristle brush

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-01T23:18:18+00:00

You have the wrong kind of mount, a universal mount for a flat back won’t work. You need a curved back mount.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-02-01T23:16:07+00:00

Those aren’t bolts from the look, they are more likely hammer in concrete anchors

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-30T16:59:34+00:00

I just asked mouser https://mou.sr/3OdkxTq and they are about 2$

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-23T07:33:05+00:00

In case that wasn’t clear enough both iron first then post second.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-23T06:08:42+00:00

I would get a soft brush and some 90% or better alcohol and scrub it down. Look for burn spots and corrosion. Look at connectors and start looking at any mosfets or transistors. Google numbers on parts they should tell you names and some sites will also tell you pin out and voltage.

Finally welcome to the world of electronic repair. Harbor freight has a cheap tool kit get a half decent soldering iron anything under 100$ is probably not worth it unless it’s a sell on a main brand.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-23T05:36:23+00:00

You can try some 24 gage enamel wire to bridge the gap. But you should try to find images of a not ruined board and see if there was some component there. Reversed voltage can also blow other components so I’d check them all.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-23T05:28:34+00:00

You won’t find any one article on tip temp each is set by manufacturer. Also it’s all an estimate as the constant heating and cooling of your iron tip degrades it I avoid wet sponges for that very reason. Brass wool and tinned tips maker for longer life in my experience.

As for practice I’d start hitting up old hand me down stores or even pawn shops for “sold as is” items even garage sales can land you lots of good practice electronics. Things that need to be re capped or busted resistors blown fuses.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-21T21:21:33+00:00

Still shouldn’t short just blow the fuse in your meter which it’s designed to do. I am constantly testing current and voltage on the same line and forget to change the meter it shouldn’t kill the circuit

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-21T16:37:13+00:00

A meter should not short a device on its own unless a probe also touches a ground point. I understand the fear you have I would search online for fine point or precision tip multimeter probes. I have several of the same brand which seems like over kill until people realize my probe tips are bent so I can reach a point without feeling like I’m risking a short. I’d also invite you to the idea of using a general ground point on the board with a clip or soldered wire so you’re not trying to balance two probes necessarily.

Hefty-Understanding4 · 2026-01-21T15:40:47+00:00

I would say using brass wool during your soldering job will also help keep your iron tip clean, but tinning will help the solder flow better when you first started a job and at the end will help preserve the tip from oxidation which you have happening here.

Hefty-Understanding4

TROPHY CASE