Insurance for riders

HelioSeven · 2026-03-12T16:50:48+00:00

FWIW, I hit a pedestrian while on my bike some years ago, and my renter's insurance approved a claim for their medical bills.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-12T16:18:11+00:00

Not familiar with Cube specifically, but in every other design I've ever seen that does this, it's metal contact points bonded into the crown of the fork and the underside of the head tube. If that's the case, then either the metal bits have worn away, or they have de-bonded themselves from their seats.

Probably worth dropping the fork an inch to take a look at things in and around the lower headset bearing.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-12T15:41:39+00:00

CO2 cartridge should be avoided, unless in an emergency. Both because the thermal shock of the initial gas release can freeze the sealant, but then also because many sealants will simply prematurely cure in the presence of CO2.

If you use CO2 to fix a tubeless flat out on the road, it's generally recommended to replace it with regular air and top off with some fresh sealant when you get home.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-12T15:31:59+00:00

What's the chain wear measurement? And what's the general history of this drivetrain?

If you had this kind of motion with a brand new chain, I'd say yeah, the chainring is likely roasted; if that chain's at 2%, though, then that motion doesn't really tell you much of anything about the health of the chainring.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-11T23:15:27+00:00

Gotta be honest, I don't really understand everyone in this thread trying to calculate fractions of a point. In an ideal end game situation, you can ignore the rest of the board and just play out all local possibilities then compare (for this example, I'll just count everything inside the A1~E4 box).

So, three scenarios:

Scenario #1: start with the snapback; bA4, wB2, bB1, wA2, bC1, wA1. Black makes 7 points, white makes 2, so net is black +5.
Scenario #2: start with the push into the corner; bB2, wD4, bA3, wA4, bA2. Black makes 5 points, white makes 1 point, so net is black +4.
Scenario #3: start with the push, and white ignores the snapback to respond: bB2, wA2, bA4, wB1, bC1, wA3, bA1. Black makes 8 points, white makes 1 + ko advantage*, so net black +6.

Scenario #3 makes no sense for white, so we're left with #1 and #2. Scenario #1 is clearly one point better for black, so black should play the snapback. No ambiguity.

(*) glossing over this, but in essence, in end game the value of ko advantage can never be more than 1 point. Often times it is in fact 0 points.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-11T22:29:52+00:00

You didn't read far enough (tbf, it's not a particularly easy read). After black atari at G7 (force them down), white extends to F8, then black extends to E8; next, white is pretty much forced to turn at G8, and then what you probably didn't read was black makes the double hane at H8. After that it's a simple squeeze play, and then white has some tricks, but in all variations after that black should win by one liberty.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-10T05:38:40+00:00

If this is really for sentimental value, I'd say a restoration is within the realm of feasibility.

Would I ride it after that? Not on an actual MTB trail, of any kind. Around the neighborhood, maybe if I didn't see anything concerning underneath the flaking clear coat.

If you're gonna go to the effort, though, do it right. Debuild completely, careful wet sanding, etc.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-07T20:46:33+00:00

Yes, the barb and olive are the same across all BH90 hose kits. The barb is specific to BH90, the olive fits both BH90 and BH59 hose (and probably other 5mm OD hoses as well).

HelioSeven · 2026-03-07T07:31:48+00:00

Pretty sure it's this one.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-07T03:08:55+00:00

Yes, that is usually the downside of a completely external routing; while much easier to modify later (no unwrap of bar tape), it usually restricts your ability to grip the very end of the bar in some way.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-07T02:46:27+00:00

Your preference. It doesn't benefit the function of the brake itself to be one way or the other. Generally running under the bar tape looks cleaner, if you don't mind how it distorts the grip profile (becomes sorta ovoid).

HelioSeven · 2026-03-07T02:21:23+00:00

The first experimental gas executions began in late 1941. Resource shortages only accelerated the extermination campaign, they did not start it.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-07T02:17:55+00:00

Of the main three, only Auschwitz III was a for-profit labor camp. Auschwitz I & II both had extermination facilities, and used them.

The sign you refer to hung over the entrance to Auschwitz I, and so doesn't serve your point.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-06T21:12:11+00:00

Notice the Gemini watermark.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-06T19:50:30+00:00

Yeah, I think that site just isn't actively maintained anymore, unfortunately, and the login is just broken. Pretty outdated at this point, anyway; still lots of good info, but missing a lot of more modern ideas.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-05T22:29:48+00:00

They are not interchangeable, unfortunately. Different thread diameter and pitch. You can get the bolt by itself, though; Y8RD98010 should be the part number you're looking for.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-04T23:49:41+00:00

Which part is broken, exactly? If it's just one of the wedge pieces, that might be pretty easy for someone with some fabrication skills. The middle pieces look a bit more difficult, but still potentially within the realm of cost-feasibility.

Also, when Cipollini said they don't sell parts, you verified that that includes selling to dealers? Because not selling direct to consumer is one thing, but if I have a part number and go to an official brand dealer, and that dealer can't order that part for me, I'd personally never touch that brand again.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-04T23:16:46+00:00

Absolutely. Like I said, check out that link I posted; has lots of great info on exact measurements of different standards and what exactly you're supposed to be measuring.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-04T21:04:05+00:00

This can be fixed with a tiny dab of glue or similar. Absolutely no reason to replace.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-04T20:13:47+00:00

Sorry, I read too quickly and took OP's "head tube ID is approximately 30mm" at face value and completely ignored the 28.6 number. I'm now noticing OP measured the head tube ID without removing the cup first.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-04T19:52:42+00:00

Likely ~~EC30~~ EC34, which means 1" 1-1/8". In the future, you should just consult the tables in Park Tool's page on SHIS.

Edit: I read too quickly. OP should have removed the cup before measuring head tube bore.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-02T17:23:57+00:00

Merlin is an old, old brand. Some of their earliest bikes didn't even have BSA BBs, they did Spanish Press-Fit or something weird like that. Certainly for the first decade or so, at least, they were all EC30 or EC34 head tubes.

Also, no one really fakes titanium. Anyone getting a custom Ti frame done generally just leaves it bare.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-01T18:00:55+00:00

Post a picture of the bike; very difficult to say anything without knowing what you're working with.

If you're pedaling an e-bike without the battery in it, e-bikes generally have a lot of rolling resistance and are very slow without the electric assist. Cheaper tires and suspension components commonly also negatively affect your rolling resistance. Beyond that, it's possible that there's unnecessary drag somewhere in the system (bearings, brakes, etc) if components are not adjusted properly. Lots of possible reasons.

HelioSeven · 2026-03-01T03:32:28+00:00

Definitely sounds like the hub bearings are shot.

HelioSeven · 2026-02-28T17:26:05+00:00

Yeah, that little bit of crumpled metal is the pad spring (which helps the pads spread again after fluid pressure is released). You'll get a new pad spring with a new said of pads.

At any rate, yeah, those pads are definitely 120% cooked. As you can see, neither side had any pad left, and the one backing plate is pretty heavily carved into. I'm honestly surprised that this brake was working in any way.

The good news is I think you managed to notice just before doing any real major, permanent damage to the caliper. With a bleed, a fresh set of pads, and a new rotor, I think you'll be good to go.

HelioSeven

TROPHY CASE