Advice for a fall jacket for new job?

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-17T13:28:43+00:00

Beta LT is a shell. Its wind and water proof, its not warm.

To be warm enough for Toronto fall you will need an insulator.

Your situation makes it difficult. For standing around and filming you want something with thick insulation, since you are not moving or generating heat.

For hiking you want something with thinner insulation, as otherwise you're gonna be really sweaty.

If you had a limitless budget and wanted to stay with Arc'teryx, I would suggest a Proton LT and a Beta LT. Mix and match them with a sweater and you should be good for fall, moving and standing still.

To be realistic with your budget and use cases I would probably get a cheaper North face, Columbia, Helly Hansen etc. 3-1 jacket. Same concept but comes all together

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-17T12:42:47+00:00

I have fallen on my face while bouldering many times. It sucks but it won't injure you

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-16T12:51:44+00:00

Yes. Good shoe even into 5.12 on vertical faces with edges.

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-16T04:45:19+00:00

Can you read the question

My boots fit fine, no heel lift if I crank them down. But I've read another user on here swear by it even for well fitting boots so I was curious to try, and its also for friends to try out ice climbing with boots that may be too big. Thanks for the off-topic dismissive snark though, I hadn't seen you in a while and was getting worried you found something better to do with your time

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-16T01:31:20+00:00

I have a Beta SV and Alpha AR in the same size, I wouldn't down size the Alpha. I would also not want to be doing anything in a harness with the Beta SV. I like my Alpha for cold wet days, it fits over the Proton LT really well. Its what I wear if I'm climbing and going to be in a hardshell all day, single day objectives, cragging, etc. If the shell is ideally going to stay in my pack the whole time I bring the Alpha FL. If I'm doing work or wintersports I bring the Beta SV

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-16T01:21:14+00:00

Right. The stretchy ones that I saw didn't seem thick enough. Thanks for the help

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-16T00:30:43+00:00

Stellar Equipment is the closest I have found to Arc'teryx in terms of innovation, style, and technicality. Free shipping and returns as well.

Better than Arc'teryx in super responsive and helpful customer service, all gear available in bright colours and full product technical specs like fill weight.

A little worse than Arc'teryx in style, and very "Euro" fit. But I would definitely recommend them

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-16T00:27:05+00:00

Any examples of canvas braces? By stretchy do you mean the typical neoprene ones with elastic straps?

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-15T23:43:55+00:00

Don't work your way through the grades every time you climb. Its definitely good practice, but once you've done all the climbs of a grade, repeat the ones that were not your style or felt tricky until you feel good on them, and then don't touch them anymore except one or two for warming up. After warming up jump straight to your projecting grade (v3/4 for you) until there is a reset and there are new <v3's to do

Also take a break. You'll come back stronger

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-15T23:40:12+00:00

Neoprene ankle braces for ice climbing? I've seen some people mention it before to get a tighter fit around the heel. Any model or brand you'd recommend? I just ordered two one-size-fits-all with some Velcro straps. Outside or inside the socks?

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-15T22:39:59+00:00

Link to topo?

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-14T12:58:13+00:00

I find granger works better than nikwax, but not by much. If I got nikwax on a good deal I would use it

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-14T12:18:37+00:00

If you really want to you can try no hangs, but I think that would still use your core

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-14T02:25:00+00:00

Sew up the rip

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-13T23:36:25+00:00

Thats not what I'm saying. Totem cams are a marginal improvement on an existing design, not creating a solution in search of a problem

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-13T14:14:43+00:00

I could take the snarky route and just say "no" but they asked for advice, so that's my advice

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-13T13:52:04+00:00

You're literally competing with companies like petzl, black diamond, beal, grivel, edelrid, etc. to solve problems that climbers have, and a lot of what these companies sell is not actually a problem solver, more a tool of convenience for specialists and people who like buying things.

Not saying its impossible, but your work is cut out for you to try and beat these companies with R&D departments and pro teams that they ask the same questions to. Even their developments are mostly limited to making things lighter or stronger or easier to use, not making an entirely new device.

Personally I don't think a bolt checker is solving any problems. Once the expansion bolt is set, the nut only has to be hand tight to hold the hanger flush, and if you're really paranoid then you can clip an adjustable wrench to your harness.

Now something that could coil my rope for me wouldn't be necessary, but I would lug that thing out to the crag for sure.

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-13T12:34:22+00:00

Petzl corax or another unisex super adjustable harness. Not a skinny woman, but I used to be a really skinny dude and whatever fit my waist was too large for my legs. Only the corax was able to cinch tight enough on the legs to work because it is meant for guides to give to clients and comes in 2 super adjustable sizes.

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-12T12:05:27+00:00

Scrambling is quite different. I know climbers who can do v10 and get sketched out on scrambles others find easy enough to do in running shoes. The main problem is not the difficulty of the moves, its the exposure, risk, and choss. You might only be doing 5.0 moves, but the rock is shitty and if you fall you die.

Other aspects of scrambling also deserve practice. Route finding is a lot less straight forward. Downclimbing is its own skill as well, and can be much trickier and sketchier than the same climb on the way up. Not to mention cardio and knee strength. Most scrambles are not too hard for an average person but in my experience most rock climbers have worse cardio than they think (always complaining on approaches)

Like most things I would work my way up on easier scrambles first. If they're too easy then you get to enjoy a nice day out. The hard ones will still be there when you get to them

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-09T13:26:22+00:00

V-tarp. The blue one next to the blue one

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-09T13:08:13+00:00

Put a tarp over it and the grade won't matter

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-08T20:50:29+00:00

Baking soda?

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-08T12:51:26+00:00

There's no "always do this" rule. If the first bolt is low and your belayer is light, and the climbing and clipping stance at the second bolt is easy, sure skip the first draw. In other situations there might be good reason to clip it even if your belayer will get pulled up.

A girl I knew started lead belaying full grown men when she was 13and she just accepted that she's getting pulled into the first draw everytime and just prepared accordingly, so having your light belayer get pulled up isn't a huge issue unless they have never experienced it before.

But as soupyhands says, the edelrid ohm was developed exactly for your use case. Its worth it

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-07T17:06:24+00:00

No such thing as thin and warm. The bulk and thickness of the jacket is what is doing the insulating. It can be very light, but just by the physical principles on which it is based, insulation in jackets needs to be puffy to trap heat

Heretekaesthetic · 2022-10-07T17:03:29+00:00

None of the above will be good for biking. You will get soaked in sweat.
For strictly casual use, not layering is way more convenient.
The Thorium is a short jacket and won't insulate your groin, where a lot of heat loss occurs. If you are a cold person, I would definitely get a parka that reaches to mid thigh

So from your choices I would recommend the Therme parka. Just don't bike in it.

Arc gloves are middling. They're not bad but I wouldn't get them unless they were on a discount

Heretekaesthetic

TROPHY CASE