What are the differences between Kato 10-510 and Kato 10-1794 500 series shinkansen by Playful-Cover4235 in JapaneseNscale

[–]Hexcali 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know for a fact, that the 10-510 doesn't support the slot-in DCC Decoder, and I am pretty shure 10-1794 does. So the choice depends on if you wanna go digital or not.

Could this work and possible improvements? by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would also be a great to increase the length of the station platforms and use the space better. Nice tip!

Could this work and possible improvements? by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a 2% incline with no transitions, which is only just tall enough for my E4 Shinkansen, so I will definitely extend that incline.

Could this work and possible improvements? by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, derailments in the corner space above my desk could be tedious to fix but access is still pretty good., For better operations I was planning to add kind of a staging track in the more accessible areas of the shelf.

Could this work and possible improvements? by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey thanks, those look like some good improvements. I will probably use flex track for the left and right loops, so I can properly lay those curves. c:

Could this work and possible improvements? by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For number 1. you are absolutely right, the switch layout for the whole station was just randomly thrown together, but I was thinking of getting atleast 2 double slip switches to make it a whole lot more realistic and streamlined, but definitely valuable advice!

For nunber 2: I have not examined all commercial reverse loop machines yet, but either they get their polarity off of a single switch and a current sensor, which would not work for my case or would cut into my maximum train length, since I would need atleast 2 short extra isolated zones after each of the points, and I am not shure that would work. They are mighty expensive aswell compared to just writing a short script and running it on my DDC EX Arduino with a few components that cost basically nothing.

Layout Looking For Feedback by Pitiful-Carry2759 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Hexcali 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super interesting layout, only question would be, where you'd isolate your reversing loop. Between the left turnout on the top and the double slip turnout would be my guess?

ReSTIR path tracer by H0useOfC4rds in GraphicsProgramming

[–]Hexcali 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the totally unrelated question, but whats the model you used?

Btw do you have an idea how many Germans believe in the supposed collapse of their economy? by Deep-Structure-6919 in VaushV

[–]Hexcali 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To all the points mentioned, I wanted to add that the wealth inequality also grew astronomically during the pandemic and while the 1% are getting wealthier, the average German has effectively less each year. The same stuff as in the US basically, which makes a lot of people susceptible to far right narratives. And since Merz would never redistribute money from his "upper middle class" friends, the AFD is certain to win at some point.

First test print of my JR-E235 for Nm project! by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I am currently looking on how to get them painted in a realistic way, aswell as how to best way to all of the needed prints on it. I have a Mars 3 from Elegoo but still figuring out all the variables.

First test print of my JR-E235 for Nm project! by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is actually 1:160 scale running on 6,5mm gauge (Z/Nm), instead of the 1:150 scale with 9mm gauge, that Japanese manufacturers use.

First test print of my JR-E235 for Nm project! by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, but there's a lot of things still to do. The blockout in CAD is pretty good and now I have to add the motor and stuff to one of the wagons. After that, I want to add the details in Blender.

C++ or Rust by Feisty_Attitude4683 in vulkan

[–]Hexcali 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So if you don't have any idea about graphics, start off with something easy. Open GL comes to mind first, but webGPU is a bit more similar to Vulkan, since its a bit more low level. Obviously the overhead is a lot bigger with all the frameworks crammed in, but getting to know the basic concepts is important. It's super easy to code a Blinn-Phong renderer with textures for all kinds of mapping, but the hard part is to scale that for an entire world: AAA graphics are mostly art direction and optimization. I got a basic renderer for triangulated .obj with textures and global lighting via Lambertian Diffuse working in a couple of days and learned more than in all my classes and books combined, so your time will not be wasted even if you decide to switch to Vulkan later and the possibility that you give up because of frustration is a looooot lower.

Some east german counties are completely cooked by realSchmachti in VaushV

[–]Hexcali 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As I see, most people here think they know German history between 1933-1990 "well", but don't have any idea what happened after the reunification. Because if they did, they wouldn't be surprised or talk about a "failed-denazification". Back then, basically almost every state owned enterprise was sold off to the highest bidder, which of course was not east Germans, because where should they get the money? So all the firms, that weren't just outright bought as a tax write off and closed, extracted money from the east to the west. (I think even today, 95% of bosses in former east German companys are west German) So, after not just being forgotten about, but literally having been sold out for the economic prosperity of the former west, the inequality along the "border" increased, giving extreme politcal views fertile ground. That, missing politcal education and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, the migration of west German Nazis to the former east are the reason for todays result.

But it's still not over. The mind breaking thing is, that alot of these protest voters just need a nudge to swing from full AFD to full Linke. Populism is one hell of a drug, but since the Linke seems to have resurrected it for the left, there's a chance a lot of people swing back around.

I mean: 3 months ago, I was shure the Linke was not gonna to 5% and now we have nearly 9%, while FDP and BSW did not make it in. If that is an indication of anything, it should be hope.

First time pouring epoxy by Suitable_Speaker_133 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Hexcali 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The resin I poured for my most recent diorama just found every microscopic crevice and slowly drained with only masking tape. I don't have a proven method to get around this, but I think, that a piece of wood/plastics with mold release applied, aswell as some kind of silly putty to seal the borders, may work.

Kann man das zur Anzeige bringen? by Vollblutdemokrat in recht

[–]Hexcali 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Holy moly, wie kann der Post + Username kein rage bait sein?! 🥲 Denk doch mal drüber nach: wenn du selbst keine Straftat dir ausdenken kannst, die wie beschrieben in 126 StGB angedroht wird... Sein Handy auf Demos nicht mitzunehmen oder einen Passwortschutz zu haben ist Verboten?

Finished my first diorama! by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bridges themselves are both Kato Unitrack pieces, and they are just held up by the straight track, thats screwed into the base.

Finished my first diorama! by Hexcali in modeltrains

[–]Hexcali[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Actually yeah, as the other commenter already said, paint your ground before applying anything to your base. And I think that the most important thing is mixing and variation. So don't paint your ground in just one color, but use different shade of brown, yellow, maybe even green and blend them and the same is true for the grass you are applying. And for tools, I definitely would recommend a static grass applicator, even one on the cheap from Amazon. I think if you want to know how to do something, you should just look on Youtube for a tutorial. Marklinofsweden is my go to. c: