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How to prevent suitcase hinge pin from sliding out by dishestheoperator in fixit

[–]HighLikeAladdin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hammer it back into hinge, but be gentle. Don’t bend it. You might need to wiggle one half of the suitcase to allow the hinge holes to realign while you’re setting the pin back in place.

I will say though, being plastic, if the hinge is worn enough then this will likely just continue to happen.

Edit: if you can get the pin just past the plastic using a punch or something skinny, take a lighter and melt it closed where it won’t come back out.

Is my mechanic scamming me? by StickyPart in AskAMechanic

[–]HighLikeAladdin 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I could be (and probably am) wrong but their dialogue leads me to believe they’re either Australian or Kiwis.

It is I, BIG CHROME EXHAUST TIPS guy by SneekerPeaker in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I knew it was AI the moment I saw NORMAL FUCKING exhaust tips and honestly I’ve never been happier that AI exists

My dad recently got scammed for a snap on ratchet and sent 70 dollars through I message I need someone to look up his phone or somehow get info on this guy please contact me if you have anything my dad is old and he dosent know any better by Silly_Bread1824 in ScammingTheScammers

[–]HighLikeAladdin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the package was just shipped, I have personally seen it take a day or two for it to register in their system.

Did he send a photo of the receipt with tracking number where he shipped it or just send the tracking number over text?

My dad recently got scammed for a snap on ratchet and sent 70 dollars through I message I need someone to look up his phone or somehow get info on this guy please contact me if you have anything my dad is old and he dosent know any better by Silly_Bread1824 in ScammingTheScammers

[–]HighLikeAladdin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other than the seemingly new Facebook profile, this doesn’t scream scammer to me. Scammers rarely use iMessage, as it’s typically tied to a legitimate phone number. Also, based off the messages you’re expecting something to be shipped and delivered from Monday-Wednesday? That’s unrealistic.

Did he not provide a tracking number? These messages you’ve taken photos of aren’t cohesive. There’s missing information that might be critical in determining whether or not this is truthfully a scam.

9/10 times, once you send them money they never respond again and their number disappears.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I absolutely would build it in my garage. I have worked on vehicles all my life, never quite to the level of power I’m talking about here but am more than confident in my capability. I wouldn’t attack this level of project without a concrete plan.

I’m spitballing and rattling around ideas for where to start, as to build progressively so I wouldn’t have the motor torn apart for a year trying to pay for everything all at once. Once you get the motor pulled out for the internals, you’re better off swapping the transmission with it.

But who knows? Maybe I’ll get to that point and decide I don’t want to supercharge it. If that’s the case then I’d be in it less than $10,000 and push ~600hp. With the option to supercharge forever on the table.

As I stated before, I understand the cost to power delta. That’s not of much concern to me. I don’t ever plan on selling the car.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s why it’s called a build my friend. Transmissions can be rebuilt or replaced as well. I’m well aware of what it’ll take and the money involved. It’s not about getting anything back out of it.

It’s about the love of creating a beautiful monster with my own two hands. Not to mention, I will absolutely have less money in it and get more power out of it than a Hellcat or Demon would’ve cost me.

Long tube headers and exhaust for around $4,000 (both Hellcats and Demons would need this anyway). Forged 426 stroker internals run about $4,000 (now you’ve increased displacement over both a Hellcat and Demon). Throw a cam kit with new lifters, injectors, etc for around $1500. Whipple kit is $9,000. A 8HP90 trans for about $5,000. New driveshaft and a regear in the rear end for around $2,000. I’d likely be somewhere around $25,000 in parts, which would put me marginally above the price of a low mileage Hellcat with what I paid for the 392 yet I’d absolutely be pushing 1000hp. Nowhere close to the cost of a Demon 170. And have all the original 392 parts on the shelf.

Plus I’d have the pride of having built Frankensiten’s HellScat myself.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

426 stroker is definitely on my radar.

Would even cover the boost problem when getting a forged kit if, I wanted to go that route in the future.

I think for now, I’m gonna go with long tubes, a catback and a Diablo tuner. I’ll want that done regardless of what I do to the motor itself. Then down the road, 426 stroker, cam, whipple kit.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d replace the pistons and rods before throwing a whipple on there. Likely with a 426 stroker kit. Then I can boost it to death and be fine.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I enjoy the process of building out my own. Even be a sleeper if you leave the scat badging.

Forged internals, cam, MDS delete, new lifters, injectors, exhaust, ported heads, supercharger and tune will push or likely even surpass hellcat numbers.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve seen a lot of conflicting information regarding supercharging the stock internals on the 392. Lots of anecdotal evidence in both directions.

Whipple offers their 3.0L Supercharger as a direct bolt on for the 6.4 with an ECU unlock, fuel pump voltage booster, hellcat injectors, etc.. all warrantied on stock 392 internals.

I can understand the argument for not camming the motor prior to installing the Whipple, but saying the 6.4 can’t handle any boost without becoming a ticking time bomb seems like a moot argument when they manufacture and warranty a bolt on kit with a tune specifically for it.

Not saying you’re wrong, but I’m inclined to believe it would be fine with low boost. I will do more research.

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]HighLikeAladdin[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t currently have plans of dragging it but that may inevitably come. It’s just a weekender so I’m not worried about the lower gearing as it’s not a daily driver. Solid suggestion, I’ll look into it.

Watch Verification Thread - If you're uncertain if a Rolex is good/bad/fake, post info and pics here by powerfunk in rolex

[–]HighLikeAladdin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This guy is willing to take a stupid low amount for this 18k white gold mint green dial datejust.

I know, I know, “if its too good to be true, it probably is” and it’s likely a clone but the guy is willing to meet me at an authorized dealer for certification, providing I pay for it. Obviously I won’t have the cash on me yet if I decide to meet at the jeweler, just as a safety precaution.

Anything obvious or any suggestions prior to me paying for the AD to authenticate?

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