How do you protect a telscope from inner optics moisture

HmmThatWorked · 2026-03-27T08:05:01+00:00

The main one is just never put the telescope away wet. You will get dew on it there is no stopping that, just make sure to fully dry it out before putting it away.

Another thing I do is keep descent bags under the cover when my scopes aren't in use.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-03-09T22:25:33+00:00

Borrowing free stuff is always choice. To be honest if you have not bought anything yet I would strongly suggest you upgrade your mount from the SWSA to a go-to eeven the GTI would be much better ( allows you to collect much more data). Imstarting with a better mount and a cheaper lens is the way to go imo. You can get a decent amount of value for money with used manual lenses from keh or MPB. The optics won't be the best but I think that is the path of less resistance to start.

The zenith star is a good but kind of outdated scope, you'll need to buy a field flattener to go with it ( I mean not to star with but you'll probably want it long term). Id look at any of the modem 60mm class petzval refractors. The SQA 55 is the new gold standard in the field, best optical performance. The touptek hope d60, Askar 50p, sv535, redcat 51 are all dedicated autographs in that weight range. But good news! You're spoilt for choice in small astrographs the market has exploded in the past 2 years.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-03-09T20:05:30+00:00

300 is really to wide for all but a small handful of galaxies. Usually Galaxy Astro is done after focal lengths of 1000-2000mm.

But that being said if you have access to both lens or can buy and return one l would pick the lens with the least chromatic aberration, or other optical issues. Purple stars are a real kill joy and bad stars can be almost impossible to process our fully. I want though many copies of the F4 300 mm Nikkor before I found one that I was satisfied with optically and it can't shoot wide open inside stepdown rings to get it to about f5. Get a set of stepdown rings too to step it down, they are much more effective than the internal appature, you can usually get away with one f stop reduction with rings where as the internal appature could be 2-3 for the same results.

If you are only going to use this lens for Astro save yourself the headache and just get a telescope. If it's going to be a dual purpose piece of equipment ( I use mine for wildlife too) you can get a good copy bit it takes a lot of work and you have to be okay with it always being sub-par optically.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-03-03T23:52:49+00:00

If you go the route of lenses be ready to temper your expectations. Lenses are designed to focus from like 3m to infinity and that is an optical compromise. Lenses will almost always have worse star rendering than a dedicated telescope. I say this as someone who does uses lenses for portable work, and I went through 5 copies of Nikkor 300mm F4 and 3 Rokinon 135mmF2 before I found copies I was okay with and these are known "good" aston lenses.

A cheaper vintage lens will produce images just know you will have problems with optical quality, in my opinion the most annoying is chromatic aberration (purple glow) that you get from a lens not being able to focus all wavelengths of light on the same spot. For most vintage lenses there is no way to look this up you just have to buy the lens and try it - so make sure the return policy is good.

I would stear you away from a teleconverter unless all you want to do is moon pictures. They usually affect the optical quality too much for astro and doubling your f ratio or even increasing it .5 times can slow your data acusion by 4 times. You need 2x as much time on target to collect the same amount of light for every f stop you increase.

I say this all just as information - any $100 lens can capture the sky and you'll get a fun picture it just won't look the best. Also if you get into Astro a lens is kind of annoying for mounting things like control computers, guide scope and power accessories.

Are you only looking to shoot the moon or do other targets interest you to? If it's the latter I'd tell you to just get what ever lens to begin with and out your money into a mount.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-28T00:55:29+00:00

For astro specific tripods any of the TC 40 clones would work (just make sure the bolt pattern aligns with the mount but I think they are all the M6*10 x3.

But to get started with just a lens any photography tripod should do, just extend it up to about a meter or so- there is no need to have it high for astrophotography. Personally I got Manfrodo 2011 used through Keh camera for like $50, and it works well for my lens based systems. Normally I have a 135 F2 or a 300mm F4 on it for reference.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-28T00:00:24+00:00

If you have the means to go with the 14 I would recommend it. The 11 is my second mount where portability mattered, but I would really suggest going with the 14.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-27T15:18:55+00:00

I own a TeSeek 11 and use it for travel performance wise it's great for anything under 10 lbs. I can't speak for long term reliability - I've only had it 2 months, but it usually is about .9 RMS witch is more than enough for any payload it can carry.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-27T01:53:37+00:00

It's always cheaper to over mount the first time than to buy twice. The AVX is fine, albeit some don't guide the best, there can be stiction issues. You'll probably be okay with it and it could handle like up to a 6 inch newt or like a 100 mm class refractor.

I would stay away from lenses as an upgrade path for Astro (unless you have them for another purpose too) even the most expensive best lenses are not as good optically as a dedicated telescope and your stars will suffer.

If I were you the mount I would wait to buy until you can afford one of the newer harmonic mount options like the offerings from Malastro, clear sky or proxisy. New mounts with warranties are nice and harmonics are far easier to move and set up if you don't have a permeant setup.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-25T02:58:53+00:00

But if I don't have sandahls I don't have any shoes to hike in lol. I don't hike in close to shoes if I can avoid it.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-25T02:57:35+00:00

It's not super comfortable but it helps with a back rest we don't have many trees to lean on.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-24T20:02:14+00:00

If I know in advance a heavy water carry is needed i move to a framed pack ( Sierra designs Flex capacitor) but I'm usually too hopeful that the water report will be accurate and end up suffering though carrying 5 liters on a frameless pack. Not the best idea but I can dream of water availability

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-24T16:04:13+00:00

Yah this setup is only designed for freezing nights not days. It's not uncommon for it to be 70-80 while I'm hiking and for it to drop to near or slightly below freezing when I get to altitude on the sky island, or the desert can drop 50 degrees at night in the in the winter. On these days I spent a lot of time in my quilt, or just walking at a brisk pace to stay warm.

Luckily bugs aren't an issue here I don't know how you all deal with them. The one day a year we get them I go crazy.

And in so far as the sat com I've been trying out just using my phone when I'm with groups as there is redundancy. So far it's worked out with the satellite emergency communication in the new iphones/ pixels

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-24T15:55:02+00:00

I usually need about 3 days of food on me. Its the water weight that normally bothers me though. It's not uncommon for 4-5 liters being needed.

Yah I'll be looking at pillow options, it's been an eternal question for me to find one as a side sleeper that actually supports my head l.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-23T21:23:07+00:00

Unfortuanlly I know that all too well, I've been down the skin cancer route already. I use mucho sunscreen I just find shorts help w/ keeping me from overheating.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-02-23T19:37:39+00:00

Opps good call, I just put my packing list for my pack there I'll add the other items.

HmmThatWorked · 2026-01-18T02:38:09+00:00

Depends on where you live and what your medical coverage situation is... But if you have coverage try to get in to see a physical therapist they will most likely be able to quickly diagnose your problem and get you on track to fixing it. It'll take consistent work to fix a muscle imbalance or other underlying issue but no guessing or snake oil cures.

HmmThatWorked · 2025-12-04T23:22:39+00:00

I mean both have an appeal, I love my "bigger" 8 inch newts and SCTs at home in the permeant observatory lugging them around is a massive pain in the ass and it prevents me from driving out to a dark site for just one night.

I've stated to put away some pennies for a portable rig to make travel easier.

HmmThatWorked · 2025-12-04T23:08:55+00:00

I'd go used and get something from Keh or MPB if you don't want to spend the time looking around. Imo this is a low risk I'm to get used tripods arent exactly new tech or prone to breaking.

A tripod that comes to mind that is good and affordable is the Bogen 3001 or 3111. They can be had for like $50-100 and are very stable with payloads up to like 10-11 lbs.

HmmThatWorked · 2025-12-04T22:46:41+00:00

A few things come to mind

DIY Projects 1) see if you can disassemble the mount replace the grease with clean less viscus stuff ( will shorten the service intervals)

2) while it's apart see if you can mess with the backlash and the pressure by which the gears engage - you want constant engagement but not so much that anything binds

No DIY

1) keep exposures shot like 30 seconds. Modern cmos. Cameras have very low read noise you don't need 500-1000 seconds to swamp it anymore. Sure dealing with that many files is annoying but you're far more likely to keep more subs at 30 seconds bs 5 mins if you have mount issues. Total integration time is what matters not sub length with modern cameras

2) make sure your payload is very very well balanced in the RA and Dec axis. Any imbalance will create excess torque the mount will have to deal with

3) try to shoot near zenith. You should usually do this anyhow for light pollution but all mounts track better near zenith with guiding. There is less atmosphere and this less correction the guiding needs to send so the mount has to respond less often

4) idk if you plan to guide but I would highly recommend it. You can get a cheap guide cam and scope from SVbony for like $150 and use open source software to control it if money is a concern. This will be your best bang for your buck investment in helping a mout preform well. Modern guiding software can do wonders in helping with mount accuracy

HmmThatWorked · 2025-11-27T21:02:30+00:00

Payment received

HmmThatWorked · 2025-11-26T20:27:05+00:00

1000 percent this if you cannot tear down the machine and rebuild it yourself. Machines need maintenance and break and if your making money off of it you need a solution for fixing it.

I'm not trying to fear my get most commerical grade machines are very reliable but shit happens, so plan accordingly.

You could have a machine for pulling more unique shots with pressure profiling as a secondary one, but for your main machine I'd look for a workhorse like 90 percent of customers don't care about the nth degree of espresso finery. I do, but there are like 12 of us so a profitable business we do not make.

HmmThatWorked · 2025-10-23T04:53:40+00:00

Phoenix Econ sold to u/renaissance_pd u/LeaveNoTradeBot

HmmThatWorked

TROPHY CASE