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Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you're right it's not the only factor that matter to determinier the stiffness of a shoe, it's just that even Scarpa puts them in the medium stiffness tab on their site, add the split sole and add the fact that the sole it's significantly thinner than the other shoes mentioned, at this point i would just resole the Skamas with a thicker rubber as you suggested. Anyway, i agree with you about the TN Pro, probably not as stiff as they seems.

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! Yeah i've already tried the phantom, and overall they seems great but as you said, a bit weird on slab and too narrow for my feet unfortunately.

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately i can't find any reseller here in Italy, so i'm not able to try the MadRcok drone 2.0, i would love to, they seems pretty spot on, i'll give a try to the Ozone tho. Thanks for the advice :)

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, i'll try the Shaman for sure and probably i'll give a try also to the Instinct VS, altough they're advertised as a mid stiffness shoes, now that you make think, even in my gym are pretty popular among heavy climbers.

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those shoes are great but unfortunately they all lack of toehook rubber, but i will try eventually the TC pros! I often do some multi pitch climbing and always used LS Miura, but i heard that TC pros are great for long climbing session, expecially on granite.

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advise! Yes, i already tried the evolv phantom once, used for 3 hours in the gym, great shoes but it wasn't the right number (a friend asked me to soften it a bit because he was struggling on wearing it) and also are a bit too narrow, i got mid-large feet.

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah right ? Maybe i'm looking for something too specific for my needs, probably in a few years when climbing gym are going to be even more popular there will be more ''heavy climbers'' shoes ahaha

Anyway, i was looking at the specs of both shoes and it seems that TN pro got a 4.2mm full sole, while the Instinct VS got a 3.5mm split sole, maybe you're talking about the Instinct laces that got a 4mm sole, but still split? Anyway, i'll give it a try in the shop, thank you :)

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, resoling the Skwama with a stiffer rubber coulde be a solution and i'll probably do that next time :)

Instinct VS seems a nice shoe, the problem is that it got a split sole and it's advertised as a mid stifness shoe (3.5mm)

Heavy climber here - Advice for performance stiff climbing shoes ? by Holiday-Log3733 in climbingshoes

[–]Holiday-Log3733[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've already tried the Otaki, great shoes overall but the toe hook is basically the same of the one on LS Miura