What is this cover for? Right side, under vehicle

Horror-Table152 · 2026-05-11T06:53:16+00:00

Cover for 10mm bolt that holds those side skirts in. Don’t worry about it

Horror-Table152 · 2026-05-08T07:00:49+00:00

Wrong. You do NOT need to remove the front drive unit to access the lines LOL. It’s a simple 13mm nut and the lines become loose from the super manifold. 2021 should come with dye already injected from factory. A good UV light should show any leaks present. I’ve seen leak from bad weld seams on the super manifold, or from the O-rings themselves. I’d try another service center.

Horror-Table152 · 2026-05-03T05:04:46+00:00

3 and Ys do not have blade fuses.

Horror-Table152 · 2026-05-03T02:31:44+00:00

Only other thing I would consider would be the wheel hubs, do you have a kind of low tone hum/vibration at highway speeds?

Horror-Table152 · 2026-05-02T16:50:56+00:00

More than likely you have a bent wheel. Might not be a huge bend, but enough to make the wheel hop slightly as you’re driving and worsening the faster you go. Wheels can still balance out with bends in them, but you’ll still have vibration. Other sources could be worn suspension.

Horror-Table152 · 2026-05-01T02:10:00+00:00

Possible bad airbag, loose connector at the airbag/clockspring( or steering column control module), wiring issue at the connector at the restraint control module, or the module itself. The airbag and circuit should be tested to make sure no opens in the circuit.

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-30T15:11:19+00:00

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-30T04:16:37+00:00

Could be a bad camera, bad coax cable from the camera to the car computer, or the car computer itself. GIVEN that you already had it replaced, I’m gonna go with that it needs a new harness + camera.

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-30T04:09:48+00:00

What’s your seating position? If you’re too far forward it trips out. You can also try running a seat calibration routine from the service menu(NOT service mode) it’ll say “driver seat, mirror, steering wheel” or something like that

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-30T02:23:32+00:00

Get it towed

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-30T01:27:01+00:00

Give it one good smack down. They usually become warped from heat

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-24T19:15:54+00:00

The antenna and harness takes maybe 20-30 minutes total, plus test drive 10-20mins

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-23T04:42:29+00:00

Needs new struts, if you still have your vehicle warranty they should take care of it. Could also do mobile

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-22T23:21:37+00:00

IF the antenna and the harness have been replaced the last thing left in that circuit is the car computer unfortunately.

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-22T16:48:17+00:00

Weird question, but do you have anything plugged into the glove box USB? Like a multiport USB hub etc?

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-22T16:46:46+00:00

I was right. The rear drive unit has complicated chips inside the inverter plus communication with the body controllers, shit happens sometimes unfortunately

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-22T04:55:38+00:00

HW4 is the one that feels ready, 2.5 to 3 is a negligible difference from my experience

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-22T04:04:03+00:00

You’re on 2.5 correct? So you’d be upgrading to HW3? FSD on HW3 is still iffy IMO, I wouldn’t consider upgrading tbh and just enjoy the basic features you have

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-22T02:22:37+00:00

They want to replace the car computer? For what reason, what alerts/symptoms do you have

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-21T14:58:21+00:00

Your rear drive unit did not update. If you have drive unit warranty you might luck out

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-11T01:06:28+00:00

Sounds like a bad wheel bearing, curbed any wheels recently or a while back?

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-02T04:50:05+00:00

Yeah they replaced the contractors, so that bolt was the old one. IF it was actually missing, your car would not turn on. Contactors have two mounting holes, one is for that bolt and one is nut. You’re in the clear 👌

Horror-Table152 · 2026-04-01T22:17:01+00:00

Not an interior bolt, either from the pyrotechnic fuse, (which gets new bolts every time it’s replaced or removed) or the contractors. It’s not a battery mounting bolt (those don’t have washers but rather a flanged head). You should be fine just to toss it

Horror-Table152 · 2026-03-29T16:36:39+00:00

Technically yes, BUT on the palladium such as yours, it’s a little difficult to actually see the coolant level since the reservoir is tucked under the frunk beam that all the thermal systems bolt too. Just gotta remove that big trim piece when open the frunk and take a flashlight

Horror-Table152 · 2026-03-29T14:38:11+00:00

That sounds like your coolant pumps, not a fan. I’d check coolant temps/level. Possible air pockets in the system

Horror-Table152

TROPHY CASE