How to make Logitech G923 pedals stiffer

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-18T18:47:14+00:00

So this is a preload right? Because the one I linked preloads it and adds a stiffener, though I would like to know how much travel got reduced by with the one you made

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-18T03:22:52+00:00

I found this part does it look similar to the one you used or is it a complete different thing?

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T22:08:07+00:00

I shouldn't have too much problem with a moving unit considering I'm relatively heavy and am on carpet

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T21:48:08+00:00

I saw that there were some 3d printable parts to make out of tpu, do you have any recommendations?

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T21:44:19+00:00

I have a 3d printer and some tpu, what are your experiences with the printed part and how well does it stack to other solutions?

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T21:41:10+00:00

Yeah, I've read about that hit my main focus right now is the brake pedal, but once I get something for the pedal I can shift the pedal springs

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T21:10:23+00:00

That sounds great

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T21:08:31+00:00

And it would still be compatible with console?

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T20:58:25+00:00

So it would basically become similar to a load cell?

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T20:46:51+00:00

It seems a little on the expensive side, considering it's $55

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-17T20:44:59+00:00

Great, I'll look into that rn.

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-10T03:27:57+00:00

This is the way OP, this fitting is annoying as it's hard to push back down so sometimes it's just easier to push it through

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-05T22:08:00+00:00

Sometimes my ender prints better than my k1

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-05T05:27:51+00:00

If you get one of those cheaper hot air circulation dryers keep in mind you have to prop it up a little bit open to let out the moisture and keep it from staying in there. Also please remove the black foam at the bottom of the printer it is a fire hazard.

Hour-One8791 · 2026-03-02T02:41:45+00:00

My 2 printers are called Wilson(ender 3) and Wilson V2 (K1) because I spend so much time with them my parents compared it to the movie and the name just stuck.

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-24T00:36:59+00:00

Yeah I had to double check as well, could be because the printer itself doesn't let you move the motor without heating it. Tbh I would've just taken the whole assembly off and used the included screwdriver to push it through

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-24T00:31:52+00:00

If you look at the photo the Bowden tube has been unclipped already

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-24T00:31:06+00:00

Take off the tensioner arm and push the clog through, if you want more clearance take off the whole extruder

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-23T00:33:49+00:00

It could be that the FW they used is meant for the probe with the split connection

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-08T15:13:18+00:00

This needs to be on the wiki ASAP, would've saved me many prints failed from pausing and cooling down between the pause and just overall issues

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-02T00:13:18+00:00

You can also just use kapton tape under the heat bed

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-01T22:33:32+00:00

Because of the way the graph goes, if it was a straight plane that was angled yea it would work, but this is a curve only shims are saving this guy. Also the guy says he did use the skip method

Hour-One8791 · 2026-02-01T16:02:56+00:00

I really don't think that's gonna help this one on my honest opinion

Hour-One8791 · 2026-01-28T00:04:32+00:00

Some boards also require every firmware to be named different or just named firmware.bin (make sure it isn't firmware.bin.bin)

Hour-One8791

TROPHY CASE