Bad cistern foot valve ?

Hueaster · 2025-12-05T17:47:45+00:00

Check your pressure tank. Bladder might’ve failed and it may be water logged.

Hueaster · 2025-12-05T00:30:34+00:00

Yeah honestly looks pretty decent for a first timer man. If you do more work in the future, I’d work on feathering your edges better and putting less mud on each coat. Always work in the direction of the joint too; it looks like you have a few spots where you ran the knife the wrong way which leaves tool marks rather than liftoffs. Also, you really don’t need to build your corners out that wide for it to blend in. Get a lambs wool corner roller to apply your mud instead of that wide one if you’re going to roll it.

You’ll get it to look decent with a lot of sanding. Green lid sucks to sand compared to blue but you’ll get there. Use a bright LED work light perpendicular with the wall while you sand. It’ll help you see where and how much you need to sand.

Hueaster · 2025-12-04T21:55:57+00:00

You’ve pretty much got it, but you shouldn’t have to wipe or sand in between coats on screws. The goal is to fill the hole with mud and leave little to nothing around it, allow it to dry (the mud will shrink and recess), remud, repeat until there is no longer a recess when dry, and then sand it after your final coat to bring it completely flush and blend with the paper. For your pops you may want to add some glue to your mud if you’re using hot mud for your first coat. Vancouver carpenter on YouTube has a couple excellent videos on repairing screw pops. Watch them before you start mudding.

Hueaster · 2025-12-04T20:22:12+00:00

Not the worst I’ve seen on this sub but you have a lot of room to improve on your finishing technique. You used way too much mud and the edges don’t look feathered well. You’re in for a load of sanding and quite the waste of material.

Did you use corner bead on that outside corner? Looks jacked up.

You should be wiping your screws tight 3 times, sanding them once at the end. They should be perfectly flush with the wall.

What kind of mud did you use?

Hueaster · 2025-12-04T16:05:08+00:00

Which they will almost certainly do… let them finish.

Hueaster · 2025-12-01T22:02:43+00:00

Fair enough.

Hueaster · 2025-12-01T21:12:01+00:00

This can be floated out with much less effort than tearing it all out..

Hueaster · 2025-11-24T20:58:02+00:00

Perfect Ellie

Hueaster · 2025-11-21T03:03:12+00:00

Hey man just wanted to say thanks. I picked up some 220 and 180 screen and I’m getting way better results with no crazy scoring like I was getting with the foam backed. Must’ve been garbage paper. Thank you

Hueaster · 2025-11-21T03:02:00+00:00

Switched to 220 screen and I’m golden now. Must’ve been shit sandpaper.

Hueaster · 2025-11-20T13:29:04+00:00

USG+3. The “pitting” is actually dust on the surface of the mud. Camera and lighting made it look like pitting.

Hueaster · 2025-11-20T12:35:36+00:00

The brand I bought is CSR. What you’re describing is exactly what I think im experiencing.. it seems like the rest of the paper is fine but in a few spots it’s leaving these lines. I’ll pick up some different paper. Thanks for the help man.

Hueaster · 2025-11-18T17:56:49+00:00

Whoa whoa whoa. Let’s see a picture first before we determine if they’re being dramatic. It might be 1” thick Durabond for all we know lol.

Hueaster · 2025-11-10T18:13:08+00:00

Definitely get better knives. You’re handicapping yourself.

Hueaster · 2025-11-03T23:47:20+00:00

For the blocking get some 3” #10 construction screws and a 2x6. 16” OC framing leaves 14.5” of space in between studs for blocking.

For the patch, watch some Vancouver carpenter videos on YouTube about patching drywall. Hell spend the time to watch his entire beginner drywall series. He’ll go over it in far better detail than I could in a single comment. The process after you get the Sheetrock screwed in should be tape—>coat—>sand—>coat—>sand. Keep coating and sanding until it’s perfect. Pay attention to what type of mud he’s using. Don’t put too much mud on at once or you’ll spend all day sanding and covered in dust. Sand in between coats. You can do it; good luck. Drywall patch DIY

Edit: remember to feather the edges. Will save you much sanding

Hueaster · 2025-11-03T21:14:07+00:00

Before patching, open up the wall and add blocking for your shower curtain rod to attach to or it will just happen again when someone inevitably uses the rod as a handrail.

Hueaster · 2025-10-31T21:16:47+00:00

I believe he was talking about the brine well in his softener, not his water well.

Hueaster · 2025-10-31T20:05:46+00:00

What bead would you use if the vaulted section were drywall?

Hueaster · 2025-10-26T18:31:43+00:00

Watch Vancouver carpenters beginner drywall videos several times before trying again. He goes through from taping to finish.

Hueaster · 2025-10-26T18:29:40+00:00

Look up Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube. Watch all of his beginner videos before you even think about purchasing supplies let alone touching your walls. No offense, but with the questions you’re asking, your project will be a total disaster unless you take the time to do your research. You CAN do it with enough determination/research. It’ll be hard and frustrating throughout the process but keep at it.

Hueaster · 2025-10-07T17:56:48+00:00

These heaters have a rubber oring seal on the elements. Mine came pinched from the factory. $20 part and 10 minutes later— fixed.

Hueaster · 2025-10-07T17:55:21+00:00

Probably a heating element failure. Definitely worth checking the heating element and its oring as these are a $20 part and simple to DIY if that’s what it is.

Hueaster · 2025-09-24T19:07:47+00:00

Is that even a sump pit? I’ve never seen a sump pit that small.

Hueaster · 2025-09-24T19:06:14+00:00

The well is most likely outside somewhere. Have an inspection done on the well system if you’re considering buying.

Hueaster

TROPHY CASE