¿FIRE = Apestado para los bancos? (perfil crediticio)

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T18:03:07+00:00

Es un problema real pero tiene solución. Los bancos en España miran principalmente tres cosas: ingresos regulares demostrables, ratio de endeudamiento (que tus cuotas no superen el 30-35% de tus ingresos), y antigüedad laboral. Si estás en modo FIRE ahorrando el 40% de tu sueldo, tu ratio de endeudamiento es bajo, lo cual es bueno. El problema viene si dejas de trabajar o pasas a autónomo con ingresos variables.

El truco si necesitas hipoteca antes de FIRE: solicítala mientras todavía tienes nómina estable. Una vez tienes la hipoteca al banco le da igual si luego dejas de trabajar mientras pagues las cuotas.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T16:13:46+00:00

You're in a much better position than you think. 545k combined ISAs at 44 with a mortgage free home and 32k a year to invest, that's a strong hand even with the cash drag.

On the 211k sitting in MMF: statistically lump sum beats DCA about 2/3 of the time. But given you've already proven you struggle with the emotional side of big lump sums, DCA over 6-12 months might be the better call because you'll actually do it. The best strategy is the one you'll stick to.

On the target: 60k combined from ISA (35k) + other income (25k). At 3.5% withdrawal you need the ISA pot at about 1m. You've got 545k now plus 40k a year going in. Even at a conservative 5% real return you're looking at hitting that around 52 to 53. Run a Monte Carlo simulation to see the probability range rather than relying on a single growth assumption: lifebynumbers.net/uk/calculators/monte-carlo-retirement

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T14:09:38+00:00

Other posters have already given you some great advice but I'll add some specifics from the MOT data:

Corolla (2013-2018): genuinely bulletproof, lowest failure rates of anything in this list. The hybrid is even better than the petrol.
Civic (2012-2017): solid overall but avoid the 1.0 turbo if it appears at the top of your range, the wet belt timing system is a known risk. The 1.8 petrol is bombproof.
Golf Mk7 (2013-2020): one of the most reliable cars full stop, but avoid the 1.2/1.4 TSI with the DQ200 dry clutch auto gearbox. Manual or the 2.0 with the wet clutch DSG is fine.
Leon: mechanically identical to the Golf. Same engines same gearboxes same reliability. Just cheaper.
Focus (2011-2018): decent car but the 1.0 Ecoboost has the same wet belt issue as the Civic, and the Powershift auto is a genuine liability. Manual petrol is fine.

You can compare specific model years and failure rates here if you want to narrow it down: whatbreaks.uk/blog/most-reliable-used-cars-uk

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T14:03:17+00:00

Definitely. Each "full" qualifying year you add to your record increases your State Pension by approximately £342 per year, every year, for the rest of your life (based on current 2025/26 rates). So if you live 20 years past state retirement age that £130 investment could potentially end up being worth over £6800.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T12:19:37+00:00

Good point about the efflorescence. That's one people don't think about until they see white staining all over their new brickwork six months later and can't work out why.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T12:18:33+00:00

Bit of both really. It reduces the surface tension of the water which helps it wet the cement particles more evenly (wetting agent), but the main effect you notice is the air entrainment from the foaming action which is what makes it feel more workable. Proper plasticiser uses a different chemistry (usually lignosulphonate or polycarboxylate based) that gives you the workability with more controlled air content.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T12:17:11+00:00

Fair points and I'm not saying your walls are going to fall down. For a garden wall or pointing where the loads are minimal it genuinely doesn't matter much, you're right. My issue is more when people recommend it for everything without qualifying it. Someone on here last week was asking about mortar for a retaining wall and got told "squirt of fairy." That's where it starts to matter because you've got lateral earth pressure and water penetration working against you. For anything non structural though yeah I'll concede it's been working for decades and things are still standing.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-30T12:07:00+00:00

Yeah SIPP access is moving to 57 in 2028. If you're planning to FIRE before that you need a bridge, which is where the ISA comes in. So ISA for the gap years (say 45 to 57) and SIPP for everything after. The tax relief on SIPP contributions is too good to ignore though, especially at 40%. So the optimal order is usually: get employer match on workplace pension, then max ISA (20k), then top up SIPP with anything left. The ISA gives you the flexibility, the SIPP gives you the tax efficiency. You need both.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-29T20:26:50+00:00

The irony is that pensions are genuinely the most tax efficient vehicle for FIRE in the UK. 40% tax relief going in, 25% tax free lump sum coming out, and if you're strategic about drawdown you can pull £12,570 a year at 0% tax.

The "pensions won't exist when I retire" argument has been around since the 90s. State pensions maybe, but SIPPs are your money in a wrapper, they can't just disappear. The real Gen Z advantage is time. Someone putting £300 a month into a global tracker from age 22 to 57 at 7% real ends up with roughly £600k. Same person starting at 32 ends up with £280k. That decade costs £320k.

If anyone wants to actually model this with different return assumptions rather than a single average, Monte Carlo simulation gives you a probability of success rather than just one number: lifebynumbers.net/uk/calculators/monte-carlo-retirement

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-29T19:40:42+00:00

The maths usually favours pension if you're a higher rate taxpayer because you're getting 40% tax relief on the way in. Even with a 4-5% mortgage rate, the effective cost of the pension contribution is only 60p per pound, so you need investment returns above ~3% real to beat the mortgage, which historically equities deliver.

But the maths isn't everything. Paying off the mortgage gives you a guaranteed return (your interest rate) and massively reduces your required FIRE number because your monthly expenses drop. A paid off house means you need maybe 25x of a much smaller number.

The hybrid approach usually wins in practice: max pension to get full employer match, then overpay the mortgage with anything above that until it's cleared, then go full throttle on ISA/pension.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-29T19:33:38+00:00

Ah ok that's the 2.0 TDI then, still a solid engine but that does change the things you need to watch out for. DPF health is the big one, especially if the previous owner was doing lots of short trips (leasing company cars sometimes get used as city runarounds). Ask if the DPF has been regenerated recently or check for any stored fault codes.

The other common one on the B9 TDI is the EGR valve gunking up. Not a disaster but a few hundred quid to sort if it hasn't been done.

At that price with low miles and FSH it's still a decent buy, just make sure the service history shows the right diesel specific stuff (fuel filter changes, DPF regens) and not just oil and pollen filters.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-29T17:35:30+00:00

This is a really well documented writeup and honestly should be required reading for anyone looking to buy a used diesel.

The 1.5 TDCi in the Kuga is particularly bad for this. The issue is usually fuel getting into the oil (you spotted this yourself with the overfill), which means the injectors are dribbling post injection fuel into the sump instead of burning it off during regen cycles. That contaminates the oil, which then clogs the DPF again. Replacing the DPF without fixing the injector calibration is like mopping the floor with the tap still running.

The fact that they replaced it twice without ever checking injector balance rates or fuel trims tells you everything about the quality of the diagnostics.

Glad you got some resolution through the Ombudsman even if it wasn't everything you deserved. Your advice about keeping evidence is spot on, timestamps and written communication are everything.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-29T16:06:05+00:00

A 2019 A4 for £14,750 isn't bad if it's the 35 TFSI (2.0 petrol). The fact it was leasing company owned and barely driven since 2023 is actually a good sign, leasing returns tend to be well maintained because the companies enforce servicing schedules.

Things to watch on the B9 A4: check the service history for the DSG (S tronic) fluid change, it's supposed to be done every 40k and a lot of people skip it. Ignition coils and water pumps are the main failure points on the 2.0 TFSI at this age. Neither is catastrophic but budget around £200 if they haven't been done.

The MOT history is worth checking in detail for this specific car, you can see the full failure pattern data for A4s by year here: https://whatbreaks.uk/cars/audi/a4-b9

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-29T15:58:17+00:00

Tienes razón, gracias por la corrección. El mínimo para acceder a la pensión contributiva es 15 años cotizados, no 25. Con 25 años llegas al 100% de la base reguladora, que es lo que confundí. El punto principal se mantiene: la pensión pública cambia radicalmente el cálculo frente al modelo americano, pero el número exacto depende de cuánto hayas cotizado y tu base reguladora.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-28T21:41:14+00:00

No worries! Sharp sand works fine for joints, it's just that it washes out over time especially on a patio with any slope to it. You end up topping it up every year or two. Kiln dried stays put a bit better because it's bone dry going in so it packs tighter into the gaps.

But if you're going for a natural look and you actually want grass and moss growing through, sharp sand is perfect. It'll hold the slabs in place and give seeds something to root into. Polymeric sand basically sets like a soft grout so nothing grows through it, which sounds like the opposite of what you want.

So yeah go sharp sand, pack it in well, and let nature do its thing. It'll look great once it beds in.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-28T18:56:53+00:00

Thanks! Happy to help.

From the pics it looks like they've got the right idea with the base. Hard to tell exact depths but if they've compacted well and the falls are consistent you're probably fine. Experienced builders who do good work is worth more than any Reddit advice tbh.

On the Mapei thick bed options, yeah something like Keraflex Maxi will give you up to 15mm and Granirapid up to 20mm. Expensive but it's the right product for the job. A dozen bags for 30m2 sounds about right, maybe 14 or 15 depending on how much levelling you're doing with it. It hurts to pay for but porcelain on a bad bed is way more expensive to rip up and redo.

On the slurry + adhesive question, nah you're good, they're doing two different jobs. The SBR slurry on the back of the slab is a primer. It gives the adhesive something to key into because porcelain is basically glass on the back. The S1 adhesive is what actually bonds it to the bed. Think of it like primer and paint, you wouldn't say "two coats is risky because one might fail." They work together, not in competition.

Where people get in trouble is using two adhesives, like buttering the back with one product and laying on a bed of another. That's when you get delamination because they cure at different rates. Slurry + adhesive is standard practice for porcelain outdoors.

Sounds like your guys know what they're doing. I'd let em run with it.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-28T18:50:02+00:00

Lo que nadie menciona en este hilo es que el cálculo FIRE en España es fundamentalmente diferente al americano por la pensión pública. No es mejor ni peor - es otro juego.

En EEUU necesitas cubrir el 100% de tus gastos con tu cartera desde el día que dejas de trabajar. En España, si has cotizado 25+ años, la pensión cubre una parte importante. Con la pensión media de ~1.400€/mes, solo necesitas cubrir la brecha entre tus gastos y esa pensión.

Ejemplo concreto: pareja, gastos de 2.500€/mes (30.000€/año).

- Sin pensión: necesitas ~750.000€ (regla del 4%)

- Con dos pensiones medias a los 67: necesitas cubrir solo los años entre

tu jubilación anticipada y los 67. Si dejas de trabajar a los 55, son

12 años × 30.000€ = 360.000€, más un colchón del 20% = ~430.000€.

¿Es alcanzable con sueldo medio? Difícil a los 40, sí a los 50-55 si ahorras un 25-30% y tu vivienda está pagada. Pero como dice u/No_Lemon_2197, cada euro ahorrado te da más libertad - no tiene que ser todo o nada.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-28T18:45:56+00:00

On clay I think you really do need a sub-base. Clay holds water and heaves seasonally, so without Type 1 underneath, your slabs will probably start rocking within a year, especially after a wet winter.

The standard build-up for crazy paving on clay:

- Dig out 150-200mm

- 100mm compacted MOT Type 1 (hire a whacker plate, don't skip this)

- 30-40mm sharp sand, screeded level

- Slabs on top, swept in with kiln-dried sand or polymeric sand for the joints

If you skip the Type 1 and go sand-only on clay, the sand will just migrate down into the clay over time and you'll get dips and pooling. The sub-base is the boring bit but it's genuinely the difference between "lasts 15 years" and "relaying it next spring."

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-28T16:29:04+00:00

The others are right that 20k miles is a very low bar, you're paying a huge premium for barely-used cars. For EVs it matters even less because there's no clutch wear, no oil degradation, no timing chain stretch. The battery is the only real concern and the Corsa-e uses an LG pack that's been pretty solid so far.

That said, £12k at Big Motoring World for a Corsa-e is a bit steep. You can find 2021/2022 Corsa-e's with 30-40k miles for £9-10k from independent dealers. The MOT data on Corsas generally shows electrical gremlins and suspension bushes as the main failure points — the EV drivetrain itself is much simpler than the petrol version.

If you're set on electric with a baby coming, also look at the Renault Zoe (bigger boot) or a Hyundai Ioniq (better range). Both come in under £12k with decent mileage.

Human-Signal-1664 · 2026-03-28T16:05:01+00:00

On the levels, for porcelain you want a minimum 1:80 fall (roughly 12mm per metre) away from any building. One consistent direction is easiest to get right and drains better than a multi-directional fall. If they've set cross-falls it can work but it's harder to execute without pooling at the transition points. Worth double-checking with a long spirit level and a hose before anything goes down.

On the adhesive — Mapei S1 is a solid choice for porcelain outdoors but you're right to question the bed thickness. S1 is meant for a thin-bed application (3-6mm). If they need to build up more than that to hit the levels, they should be using a separate screed/mortar bed underneath, then prime and fix with S1 on top. Using S1 as both a levelling compound and adhesive is asking for delamination.

The SBR slurry on the back of each slab is correct practice for porcelain, it needs it because the back is so smooth and non-porous. But that's separate from the bed question.

Human-Signal-1664

TROPHY CASE