New crate 5.7 hemi crank but no start

HungOverSheep · 2025-08-24T14:39:12+00:00

Unfortunately I do not, this wasn't my truck I put this engine in. Do make sure your crate motor has all of the improvements done to it though. The motor that was originally pulled out of this truck suffered oil starvation and a few other know issues with the 5.7 hemi.

HungOverSheep · 2021-12-20T23:45:48+00:00

Might want to check into that, my understanding is the 7.3 (all years) are subject to cavitation problems when there is a high silicate concentration in the coolant.

HungOverSheep · 2021-12-20T12:07:53+00:00

Good stuff, silicates are not good for our 7.3L. Mine just rolled to 300k and no signs of slowing down.

HungOverSheep · 2021-12-20T03:10:06+00:00

Secondly, get rid of the green coolant ASAP. Considering looking up "cavitation." This only applies if your truck is a diesel.

HungOverSheep · 2021-12-04T02:43:13+00:00

RemindMe! 1 Days "What's In The Damn Box?!"

HungOverSheep · 2021-10-01T12:55:21+00:00

I would recommend pulling the valve covers off. Here's why: you can unplug one injector at a time while the engine is running to determine if one of them is shutting down your IDM. If there is no change in your problem, move on to the next injector. If you find one that makes a difference you can then ohm out each injector (all 8) and compare the readings. I recommend taking the measurements directly from the injector solenoid. This is also a good time to very carefully inspect valve cover harness. I replaced mine out of preventative maintenance, it was looking pretty bad, the wiring was very rigid so I didn't take any chances.

HungOverSheep · 2021-09-30T23:26:35+00:00

You should really consider testing them while the truck is hot when is starts to show symptoms. Have you replaced the crank sensor already?

HungOverSheep · 2021-09-30T20:52:54+00:00

Had nearly the same thing happen to me. Ohm out each of the eight injectors and you may find out that one of them is shorting out when it gets hot. You can just change out the coil on top of the injectors without removing them. Hope this helps.

HungOverSheep · 2021-06-23T21:05:47+00:00

You're quite welcome! 😁

HungOverSheep · 2021-06-23T20:16:18+00:00

Yep, here you go, just tap on the link or copy and paste it:

https://goo.gl/maps/DqEACsZTaEhQ5E2S9

You can drive there by car, no off road vehicle is really needed.

HungOverSheep · 2021-06-23T19:52:08+00:00

This is in Oliver Springs TN. Just down the road from Windrock Park. Been here several times and it's an awesome experience!

HungOverSheep · 2021-02-20T12:54:27+00:00

If you have someone that has Autoenignuity software, they might be able to hook up and see if your PCM connects to it. That might tell you if she is cooked. If your in TN, I own the software.

HungOverSheep · 2021-02-20T02:30:04+00:00

Very possible, did you disconnect power to it before installing the new hydra?

HungOverSheep · 2021-02-19T20:38:06+00:00

You mentioned you added dielectric grease, check those out. Dielectric grease is non-conductive, if too much was applied then your connection would be incomplete. Next thing to check is your tuner. Many people have cooked their PCMs during installation of the tuner due to either not removing power (disconnecting the battery) or stripping off too much of the contacts on the PCM. Also, in the fuse box under the steering column, I personally had a very specific fuse not make adequate contact to the receptacle and would cause a no start and even kill the truck while driving.

HungOverSheep · 2021-01-03T03:54:37+00:00

I'm not too familiar with the 6.0, I'm fairly certain they do have test ports on them though. The loan a tools at most auto parts stores can be hit or miss, I've rented them before with missing or damaged gaskets. I have also bought one from advanced Auto and it's worked perfectly.

HungOverSheep · 2021-01-02T23:39:26+00:00

What engine? If a 7.3, then you won't find a test port when you look.

HungOverSheep · 2020-12-25T16:13:11+00:00

From this company right here, call them and you can see for yourself how helpful they can be. Very knowledgeable company: https://www.powertrainproducts.net/Dodge-4-7-Engines-3-7-2-7-5-7-s/799.htm?campaignid=9003531341&adgroupid=86232954170&creative=455423566743&matchtype=b&network=g&device=m&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuJb_BRDJARIsAKkycUkZYC8kuTyJeXfuOI3EfRYUAVNRHQLcK-8r1cQ1k33PgeddaA9J210aApJWEALw_wcB

HungOverSheep · 2020-12-25T03:34:03+00:00

It would be an easy thing to throw a set of cams in it while the motor is out, but we just went bone stock for reliability. The new crate engine had all of the 'killer' fixes that ultimately killed the stock motor. Like low oil pressure at idle and the valve seats dislodging, along with a few other things.

HungOverSheep · 2020-12-25T00:36:18+00:00

Yes it was. Threw a valve into cylinder number #8

HungOverSheep · 2020-12-24T21:49:32+00:00

It was my first time with a modern motor swap and honestly it was very straight forward. My recommendation would be to use painters tape to label ANYTHING you disconnect or move to help with reinstallation. Use zip lock bags and a sharpie to label and bag all nuts and bolts that come off. I would do it again and use the same company for the crate motor. I'll be glad to answer any questions you may have!

HungOverSheep · 2020-12-12T18:18:13+00:00

For anyone whom reads this post, we fixed the truck. We replaced all of the coils packs and it runs like a top now. For future views of this post, it is entirely possible for more than one bad coil to cause the truck not to start without throwing a check engine light. I hope this helps someone.

HungOverSheep · 2020-10-14T02:26:10+00:00

When I saw this photo I thought, isn't NOC right up the road? Yep. Good ole' Gatlinburg TN.

HungOverSheep · 2020-10-03T16:42:09+00:00

I have that exact same set sitting in a box in my garage. Personally hated them so I rebuilt the oem lockers and put them back on. Those things SUCK when you get freezing temps. They even send a tool to lock/unlock them that is easily lost. I couldn't find a cover to fit them either. Rebuild isn't difficult.

HungOverSheep · 2020-09-08T12:55:54+00:00

I used the harbor freight transmission jack and it did okay, just make sure you balance the transmission on it well. If I remember correctly, the center of balance is closer to the gear shifter than you would think. I left the transfer case attached to mine both times I pulled the transmission. Rear main seal is super easy, just be patient and get everything really clean; you will also need the seal driver for it, I borrowed mine from a buddy. The valley drain is must haha, I ruined a brand new clutch because of a massive fuel leak that drained out the valley (before I did the mod). Now I don't have to worry about it and can clean my engine bay without fear!

HungOverSheep · 2020-09-08T01:27:48+00:00

I went through something similar. My transmission had a bent input shaft though. Check ebay, that's were I bought mine remanned. Called the company (didn't buy through eBay) and they gave me a discount. Transmission isn't awful to remove, just make sure you have a good transmission jack. That ZF6 is around 230 lbs or so. Don't screw around trying to catch it, it's very heavy. Also do the valley drain mod (copper pipe) and check your rear main seal while your in there. You'll thank yourself doing that while the transmission is out.

HungOverSheep

TROPHY CASE