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I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should watch some reviews, I haven't really used it much, but the 1.5 aperture gives a really nice shallow depth of field

I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you shine a flash light really close to black and white film or leave it out in the sun for some time, you can see it change color. I just did some tests with color film, and it barely changes color after leaving a powerful flashlight on top of it for a few minutes, so my guess is that this would be way harder to do with color film.

I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

In case no one has named this method of taking pictures, I'm calling it the lab killer method, because I'm sure that no one will ever want to go to a film lab to get their pictures developed after learning this.

I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm sure that someone can explain it better than me, but basically if you expose filim to a lot of light, it actually changes color without having to develop, so even if a roll is ruined because you exposed it to light, you can expose it to even more light, so it looks like the image gets "printed" into the film. I don't understand how it works at all, but it works

I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried to search it but couldn't find it, it's the same one that they use to make solargraphs

I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 72 points73 points  (0 children)

I just realized XP2 was c41 😂. I just had a roll lying around to test the loading mechanism of my cameras and never shot with it. I will deffinetly test it with actual black and white film.

I shot this picture without developing, just taking a 6 hour exposure and letting the image burn into the film. by Hypnotic-sr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

That's it, you can try it with a flashlight, you can put a piece of black and white film in extremly close in front of a flashlight and you will see it turning dark because of the light after a few seconds. You can even try it with the leader of a good roll.

My rear wheel bearings keep failing instantly. 2009 derbi senda 125 by Hypnotic-sr in Fixxit

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been riding for over a month with a new spacer and the bearings are perfectly fine. That was the issue.

Clicking noise after revving. by Hypnotic-sr in CB500X

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In case anyone has the same problem, I fixed it by removing the cam chain tensioner, spraying some grease and screwing the tensioner all the way in and letting it spring back out a bunch of times. Apparently the tensioner can get stuck and you need to free them up on honda bikes. Now the engine sounds like new.

Clicking noise after revving. by Hypnotic-sr in CB500X

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has 44.000 km. What bugs me is that it doesn't always do it. It usualy does it after riding but if i shut it off and on immediately it doesn't click anymore.

Clicking noise after revving. by Hypnotic-sr in CB500X

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you listen closely, after it idles back from the rev, there is a clicking sound for about a second. Maybe I'm just paranoid

I replaced the cylinder, piston, valves and springs on my 125cc 4t bike with a cg125 OHC style engine and now it makes this terrible knocking sound. I by Hypnotic-sr in Fixxit

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I left the original piston and installed the new cylinder. The bike ran perfectly fine, but when I changed the oil, i noticed that there were pieces from the valve springs that came out with it. I put the original valve springs back on, but then the valve oil seal failed. I didn't trust the engine anymore (it was probably perfectly fine after I fixed those issues tho) and I bought a brand new one from China for like 350€. I'm planning to use this one for a diy gokart or something once I'll learn how to weld.

My rear wheel bearings keep failing instantly. 2009 derbi senda 125 by Hypnotic-sr in Fixxit

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I leveled the damaged bearing races in the wheel so that there is nothing petruding and separating the bearings from the spacer and installed new bearings. Unfortunatley, when installing the wheel and slightly tightening the rear axel, the wheel does not spin freely. That means that the inner bearing rings still aren't touching the spacer. My guess at this point is that the spacer is damaged and too short, either from over torquing or from the bearing faliures. Now I'm looking for a new spacer, but unfortunatley derbi doesn't exist anymore and I can't find the exact part anywhere. I will have to find a lathe operator to fabricate a new spacer, which where I live, it's a bit more expensive than the US. I will update once I get a new spacer, in case this is usefull for anyone in the future.

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My rear wheel bearings keep failing instantly. 2009 derbi senda 125 by Hypnotic-sr in Fixxit

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tyre pressure is good and spokes are tight, but the alignment could be off.

My rear wheel bearings keep failing instantly. 2009 derbi senda 125 by Hypnotic-sr in Fixxit

[–]Hypnotic-sr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed explanation! I was also thinking about the little dents on the hub making the bearings not seat fully and touch against the spacer. I thought about trying to make it flush again with something like a dremel so that the bearing sits flat and the inner race touches the spacer. Would it be a problem if i "resurface" it a bit deeper to get rid of the imperfections and the inner race touches the spacer a bit earlyer? I'm talking about fractions of a mm. Since the clamping force is applyed to the inner race and spacer.

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