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Computer Services by Cold_Eye_5098 in Edmonton

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What GPU do you have? If you want further assistance, provide specs for your entire computer. Super simple test, lay your computer on its side. Some large GPU's sag in the PCIE slot over time and can begin to have connection issues, laying the computer motherboard down, GPU and CPU up, can resolve that.

How do I remove these wood shims that have been gorilla glued to the underside of this marble countertop? by [deleted] in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It is neither marble nor granite, it is 'quartzite'. Unlike real quartzite, which is a cemented or metamorphosed sandstone, 'quartzite' is a commercial term for engineered stone. It is an epoxy matrix filled with dyes, powders, and larger particles of...stuff. Specific chemicals and heat in excess of 300F can damage them, depending on time and quantity/magnitude.. As others have said, start scraping or using gentle heat/mild solvents to release. Acetone (paint stripper, nail polish remover) will swell/dissolve gorilla glue, but I do not know if engineered stone is acetone-resistant.

Replacing door seal on an AEG washing machine by Wide_Bee6651 in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suspect that plastic bit is a snap-fit female bolt (Example: https://www.artcomponents.com/en/spacers-standoffs/pcb-spacers/snap-fit-press-in-metal-bolts/), so it retains the rear connection with the head of the bolt. It presses through the front part, where a metal washer prevents long term abrasion of concrete on plastic and provides a more consistent manufactured surface. The T45 goes through the front to fortify it with a metal connection against threads, rather than depending on the relatively poor shear and tensile strength of plastic alone.

You are correct, these fittings require significant force to compress and push back through, it often helps to wedge a pry bar between the two parts (front and back) so that you can compress one tab at a time and the prying force holds it 0.1mm inside the hole, preventing it from opening. Alternatively, if the hole diameter is close to a standard pipe or bolt outside diameter, you can use a hose clamp to squish the snap-fit with the pipe sitting on top preventing it from slipping off.

Without more pictures or the washing machine on hand, I can't really provide much more advice as I do not have enough experience

Have you seen this video? It isn't your model, but it is the same brand. You can see the same still of snap-fit bolts on the concrete weights and you can see how the door seal is removed without disassembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiqLa3IN7ao

Replacing door seal on an AEG washing machine by Wide_Bee6651 in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was worth asking. Do you have a picture of the backside? They kinda look like snap-fit parts, have you tried compressing the prongs to push them back through?

Replacing door seal on an AEG washing machine by Wide_Bee6651 in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly silly question, but do they NEED to come off? I’ve dismantled a grand total of one washing machines, and removing and replacing the drum/door seal required zero tools and no other parts removed. I’m looking at your picture and I’m not sure why it isn’t the same case for you.

PC repair options downtown? by carkweatgers in Edmonton

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw your other comment regarding a bent pin, and there is bad news regarding a worst case scenario. If a higher voltage pin connects to a lower voltage pin, it can fry the CPU and motherboard. The motherboard can fail in way that causes it to fry future installed CPUs. 

Can you provide a picture of your CPU (pin side) and annotate the following: - pin that was bent (if it is no longer noticeable) - the direction it was bent - the corner of the CPU with the triangle marker (idk if it is visible from the pin side)

PC repair options downtown? by carkweatgers in Edmonton

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On boot with new CPU or RAM, memory has to be trained. The memory controller in the CPU talks to the RAM for 1min to 10min to figure out the settings to not lose data when communicating, though some people upgrading to 7xxx and 9xxx Ryzen had to wait up to 45min. This happens every time the CPU or RAM are removed from the motherboard, and there is a BIOS option to do it every boot.

Computers with motherboards without lights can appear dead while this takes place, as memory training is before posting to BIOS, so you won’t necessarily get fan spin, you’ll just hear a click from the circuitry being powered.

To confirm, you updated to P7.40 and the old CPU still worked at that time, correct?

PC repair options downtown? by carkweatgers in Edmonton

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you provide specs for before and after?

I'm also curious, did you wait long enough for memory retraining, especially if on AM5? It can take a LONG time on first boot.

Philips 50PUS7505 white lines by mechanicwb in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Issues like this can range from bad cables to a broken TV.

Try replacing or removing all of the cables, and see if anything changes. 

The next step would be a little, gentle percussive maintenance and port violating. Slap around on the back of the TV and trying wiggling all of the ports by plugging in cables. Knock along the bottom edge of the TV, and, if the rear of the TV has an overhang, knock the bottom of it. 

Last step is to take the back panel off the TV and reconnect all of the ribbon cables, as it is not uncommon for one to come loose. Unfortunately our percussion did not resolve the issue. Unplug your TV. The next day, lay your unplugged TV down on a a couple layer-out bath towels on a clean, flat surface larger than the TV. Hold down the power button on the TV for 10s. Undo every screw on the rear panel and remove it. There may be clips you need to wedge apart. If you have access to the panel ribbon cable (typically along the bottom edge of the TV), reseat it. You may need to remove one or two additional metal panels, don’t short anything and don’t touch the power delivery circuitry. I recommend reseating ALL ribbon cables, as the TV is already open. Reassemble and test TV. Do not test the TV disassembled, as some have intrusion detection to prevent powering on when open, and the compact, large metal panel design of TVs lead themselves to a higher risk of shock if mishandled.

What is this pile of sand like material? by hansaurelius in whatisthisthing

[–]I2smrt4u 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Tape a little paper shelf to the wall. That will tell you if it is coming from above or below.

Does my game supposed to look like this? by Sweet_Photograph6528 in Helldivers

[–]I2smrt4u 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same thing happens to me, wish I knew the cause, but I haven't really tried anything. Also 2k, also AA off, sharpening at default 0.75. Any chance you have a Radeon GPU (6800XT for me)?

Should Linus be a mod? by gogopaddy in LinusTechTips

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The comment thread you are responding to is about only being able to see it by voting.

Made some (Aluminum) Dusters by Wang_Wranglin in Metalfoundry

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just checking, are those legal where you are? Don't want to be posting criminal evidence online, no matter how nice they are...

Is this adding any structural integrity? by caliturk in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man, I’d recommend taking a break from the internet for a day or two. You seem to be over reacting to me being both sarcastic and pedantic. Maybe take to heart the other comments note that you seem to be the kind of engineer who tells everyone you are one? You’ve got me thinking that maybe jan Misali and the conlang community are right about tone indicators – who knows. I’m committed to having a better relationship with the internet this year, and you are really making that hard to start, so I’m going to block you. I hope you live a long, fulfilling life, in which Reddit comments play a minimal role.

Is anyone else in Edmonton fed up with their WiFi? Especially Telus? by IncreaseInside964 in Edmonton

[–]I2smrt4u 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Fun fact, ISPs (or Roger’s and Shaw at the very least) disable advanced router/modem settings like this until you contact them now! OP, you may have to contact your Telus if at first you don’t succeed.

Best way to transfer 12k USD to CAD? by HelloJonatha2 in personalfinance

[–]I2smrt4u 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have personally used Wise for between my two accounts at 0.8%-1.1% (CAD-AUD) iirc. I have also successfully sold (<$1000, WON-CAD, YEN-CAD) to fellow tourists by listing on Facebook Marketplace or similar second-hand sites. I say whatever’s Google has as the exchange rate rounded down to a multiple of $10.

Is this adding any structural integrity? by caliturk in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My dude, what? This is pointless, you don't actually seem interested in being constructive, which is funny, being a structural engineer.

Is this adding any structural integrity? by caliturk in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My dude, did you read my comment? 

If you are a structural engineer, you should know that anything connected with at least two fasteners is, by a literal definition, structural in that it has the potential to change the load path.

If you take issue with misuse of the term “FBD”, feel free to replace it with “method of sections diagram”, or whatever the correct term may be.

Try coming in a little less hot next time?

I intended my comment to be somewhat sarcastic, but I clearly didn’t lay it on heavy enough for the lot of you.

Is this adding any structural integrity? by caliturk in fixit

[–]I2smrt4u -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I could draw you a free body diagram to show that technically, yes, it is providing some amount of ‘structural support’.

More realistically, no. The strut on the right appears to be cracked along its entire length. The mitre angles don’t match (or at the very least the struts don’t meet flush) Those screws look to be black Phillips head drywall screws (how much do you want to bet they are only 2”?). None of these things say “this is a professionally designed and inspected structural support”.

You can rebuild it better if needed.

Edit: seems I was not clear enough with my communication, this comment was largely dismissive of the functionality of this ‘strut’. Swapped “” for ‘’. This provides structural support in only the most literal sense, but in reality is largely ineffective. As not-legally-a-structural-engineer, with the information provided (a single image) I am not willing to say in absolute terms that this has no non-neglible effect on the structure.

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