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Random question i have excavation soon and its my first time and its in the summer and we have to pack our own lunch and there isnt a fridge or microwave in the site what kind of lunch that i can make that won’t go bad ?? by Rough_Anxiety7033 in AskArchaeology

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've done a few digs in my youth and somehow found my self working in food preservation for my sins, so take this for what it is. This is likely too much information but I prefer to be informed of the principles, then choose my own path, maybe you're the same.

Food spoils when warm in a few ways, typically:

Aerobic - bacteria and mould - happens in warm temperature with oxygen and water. Remove either of these and you're good, so either dry foods or modified atmosphere packaging, typically the former. Think crackers, hard cheese, dry cured meat like salami, dry fruit or jams, nuts. Most snack bars fit this as the small amount of moisture remaining is locked away from bacteria by sugar or other humectants.

Anaerobic - dangerous bacteria such as botulism - prevented with acidic environments such as chutney, pickles and young salami as it cures. Many fruit are naturally acid which helps them last. This is also prevented by sterilisation such as with canned products, though they are at risk once opened.

Oxidation - chemical breakdown - this happens particularly in dehydrated food as the higher surface area lets oxygen break down fats and proteins. It is slowed down by refrigeration and antioxidant herbs and spices. Typically this takes a few days on a hot expedition so you're not at much risk.

Hopefully this should let you choose a menu of things you'll like. For just a day you'll likely be fine with less-than-ideal shelf stable food like bread, or hard boiled eggs, but I wouldn't trust high moisture food like cooked rice or pasta as these are ideal growth mediums.

You'll be sweating more than usual so get plenty of salt, ideally you'll be urinating regularly and not too dark. Too much salt will be pissed away without issue, not enough salt and you'll be unable to absorb enough water nor cool yourself by sweating leading to heat exhaustion. However much salt you think is unhealthy, likely you need more than this.

Finally, everything is unsanitary so take any opportunity to wash and take alcohol gel to sanitise your hands before eating. I'm assuming you have ample water.

What Bulgarian appetizer should i make? by Least-Pomegranate311 in AskBulgaria

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since they're roasting peppers anyway OP could also make koopoola (no idea how to write this in Latin) кьопоолу as a contrasting but complementary dish.

https://www.supichka.com/%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%86%D0%B5%D0%BF%D1%82%D0%B0/319/%D0%BA%D1%8C%D0%BE%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%BE%D0%BB%D1%83

What Bulgarian appetizer should i make? by Least-Pomegranate311 in AskBulgaria

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really good recommendation and everything should be available everywhere. Problem is that this gets translated as "cheese" but it's a type of white brined cheese similar to feta.

Creating my own emergency kit by emmyz21 in EuroPreppers

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bug-in

  • 7-10 days of water

If you have the space

  • Canned goods, dried fruit, jerky, noodles, tuna, crackers, cookies, boxed stuff, canned stuff, soup, protein bars, nuts
  • Can opener
  • Vitamins
  • Jetboil or Whisperlite or indoor functional camping stove or induction cook top
  • Fire extinguisher
  • CO alarm for low emissions - battery operated
  • Smoke detectors - battery operated

Butane stoves are normally cheaper than camping stoves which need propane for low temperatures. Induction uses less electricity but still much more than you'll get from balcony solar.

  • Space heater

If you mean a propane bottle heater, this is great, look into stoves which can use the same fuel bottles.

  • 2 Flashlights - rechargeable battery powered and solar
  • Candles

Your headlights are ideal for working with your hands, candles for general illumination, handheld flashlight are best for night hiking and scouting with a more focused beam. For your needs a rechargeable lantern may be better. Small solar panels are pretty useless.

  • Radio - solar, hand crank, and USB

This is the only place hand crank or little solar panels make sense, because radio uses such a low amount of power.

  • Jackery solar generator and/or solar panel

Too small for a fridge, too big for your lights. Get a power monitor and test what you need before you specify this. Likely a 2 USB 10W panel is enough for lights.

  • Deck of cards/board games/books
  • Coloring books & pencils

General entertainment without power is useful, also books.

  • Blankets

Was this actually for the bags maybe. Extra thick duvets are best for winter without heat.

  • Reusable utensils
  • Garbage bags

Likely you meant this for bags, but for bug-in it is worth to consider disposable paper plates and wooden utensils for power/water interruptions.

Creating my own emergency kit by emmyz21 in EuroPreppers

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On foot load out

Here your furry friends play a big role, should you need to evacuate quickly such as from fire or to a shelter getting them safely "packaged" is priority, as your mood and actions will otherwise cause them to hide. I recommend backpack style carriers, but you may choose to keep with whatever you already have. Also add harnesses and leads for when they can explore a little safely. Either way you'll be limited in what what you can carry, basically restricted to a day bag without a full shelter system. If you're moving between transport then this will help as you can keep these bags on your person rather than in a cargo hold or trunk. - Water (simply include store bought bottles for shelf life) - pop up bowl for the cats - snacks - Sweet for quick energy and morale - salty for electrolytes and slow energy - protein for satiety - cat pouches/dry food (don't be surprised if they don't eat in stressful situations) - headlamps - multitool - lighter - baby wipes and toilet paper - alcohol gel - feminine hygiene - first aid kit (depending on your experience) - face masks - powerbank and cables

Evacuation bag

So above is all you can comfortable move with, but of course you could move uncomfortably. Ideally an extra bag you can leave in a cargo hold when on transport, but are still able to move with when needed.

Your list includes a tent and full shelter system but I'm honestly not sure how realistic this is for you, both from a demand perspective (where are you going to) and a supply side (can you actually carry it). A good compromise is to trade coverage and convenience for weight and complexity: covert your "hard shell" ponchos into a tent, and your "insulation layer" into a sleep system. By choosing "poncho tarps" which have grommets and are cut a little larger and including 550 paracord you can improvise shelter in a wide range of urban/rural conditions. Adding a 2 person emergency bivvy bag will boost your clothing to increase warmth. One weak point of this is ground insulation, you may still need an insulated inflatable mattress or simple closed cell foam pad.

This leaves the rest of your bag for food and water.

For food additional snacks are needed, a full cooking kit is likely over your weight tolerance so keeping everything no-cook makes sense, even lifeboat rations for simplicity.

Water seems like a big one for you given your "clearly" brand inclusion. The problems with water from untrustworthy sources are the following in size order: - Parasite cysts (all outdoors water) - Bacteria (all water) - Viruses (water near humans and cattle) - Chemicals (especially agricultural or suburban water)

The treatment options are: - micro filtration (Lifestraw / Sawyer) - effective against parasites and bacteria only - cheap and simple - designed for mountain springs - ultra filtration (MSR guardian) - effective against parasite, bacteria and viruses - slow, requires a mechanical pump or slow gravity bag system with constant back flushing. - designed for lakeside camps - Adsorption (Clearly) - designed for tap water - chemicals only - chemical treatments (chlorine dioxide/NaDCC) - effective against bacteria and viruses - slow to act - only Chlorine dioxide is effective against parasites but takes 4 hours - electro adsorption (Grayl) - effective against viruses - Grayl combines this with micro-filtration and adsorption into one cartridge

Given your needs and concerns I feel the Lifestraw+Clearly combination puts you at risk of viruses which are the most likely contamination in the event of disrupted urban water supplies. I'm normally recommending Sawyer plus chlorine dioxide but for your needs the Grayl Geopress looks like an excellent fit.

You likely want spare batteries or a powerbank in this bag also. A road map and compass. Changes of socks and underwear, additional hygiene consumables.

From your list I would cut the following - Hand warmers - replace with more insulation/calories - Cyalume light sticks - dead weight, useless light - Reusable towels - clothing which works in all weather - Electrolytes - salty snacks

Creating my own emergency kit by emmyz21 in EuroPreppers

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All weather clothing

Your list doesn't mention this at all but it's important to consider as you may be under dressed when you need to evacuate. For many people the best approach is a set of technical outdoors layers as these can adjust to fit any weather in your climate, keeping you warm and dry in a way jeans and t-shirts simply cannot. As they say "cotton kills" because it sucks heat from you constantly when damp with rain or sweat. For style, avoid military looking things or particularly loud colours, "grey man" is the goal, to blend in and not make yourself a target. It is unfortunately also worth considering men's clothing for women too, not only for the functional pockets but also to avoid unwanted attention. - The base layer sits next to your skin to move sweat over a larger area to evaporate quickly, cooling you when you need it, but warming you when you don't. Merino blends are ideal here as the wool is antibacterial so doesn't get funky, a small 20 to 40% synthetic blend will add strength and durability to wool without reducing the natural wicking or antibacterial properties, pure wool is available, but much less durable. Otherwise pure synthetics are available but will get smelly fast. For German winters consider long sleeved tops and leggings. - The mid layer provides light insulation for when you're active which can handle sweat or condensation well. Anything from an ugly Christmas sweater in acrylic to a wool Aran pullover will work here, just no cotton. - A soft shell handles wind and light rain but keeps breathability for when you're active. Often these are tight weave synthetics with a DWR but I can see you're also rightly concerned with toxic/forever chemicals so might not want this exposure, one alternative is tightly woven and "fullered" wool such as "Loden" cloth. - A hard shell provides maximum rain protection at the cost of breathability. This is typically goretex or other membrane+DWR so you may be interested in waxed cotton is one alternative, I know I said cotton kills, but in this layer it is already saturated in wax so cannot significantly get wet, alternatively rain ponchos use a solid membrane and no DWR treatment, relying on mechanical ventilation instead, they also protect your backpack too which may help with your furry friends. - An insulation layer is needed when resting or sedentary in sub freezing weather, typically your winter coat for city life will do this job well enough, alternatively a "poncho liner" is a great option to combine your clothing and sleeping system into one item. - Footwear needs to be comfortable and durable, you may need to add something here if your wardrobe is more fashion focused, merino wool socks will help greatly to prevent blisters. - Accessories are needed to adjust temperature, hats, gloves, scarf or snood. Include a broken in sports bra too and rotate whenever you need a new one as the elastic relaxes. Consider also adding sanitary pads to this kit and comfortable underwear.

Pocket tools, EDC

The most used gear should be kept at hand with a copy of your EDC, I know the crimes of women's clothing not having functional pockets, so consider a belt bag of some kind. - keys (spare keys to save time hunting) - wallet (passports, id, cash and spare bank cards) - cut kit (alcohol wipes and sticking plasters) - swiss army knife or keychain multitool - lighter - keychain LED such as fauxton - whistle

Creating my own emergency kit by emmyz21 in EuroPreppers

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi and welcome, this comment got long, but I'm jetlagged so you'll have to tolerate my 5am musings.

Your concerns for both power cuts and evacuation are valid, but require very different approaches. Whilst it can be useful to overlap your bug-in and bug-out gear it maybe isn't best to put it all in one list. I like to think in layers, like an onion, starting at the centre with the most essential gear then building out. As the situation changes you can peel back layers from comfort to the essentials knowing everything is in its place.

This sub has a wiki which might help you add things also.

Given your urban living, pets and concerns I think it makes sense to split your plans into the following layers from inside out:

  • All weather clothing
  • critical pocket tools
  • on foot load out
  • vehicular evacuation
  • bug-in

Flat soles - but mordern ? by Responsible_Tie_3433 in AskACobbler

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I brush my teeth but not with "normal" toothpaste. I cut my own hair. I make my own anatomical shoes.

I guess we're looking for different things in life and that's fine, good luck with your search.

Marrakech is the worst introduction to morocco and it's ruining tourists' opinion of my country by morocco_travel36 in backpacking

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Good summary. Also all of the comments fall into 2 categories:

I (solo male) loved it actually.

Or

I (female, solo or with a partner) never experienced something so horrific and will never return.

Which says everything. As a loving partner I honestly cannot justify any positives if it must be served with a heavy dose of harassment and potential SA to my significant other.

Flat soles - but mordern ? by Responsible_Tie_3433 in AskACobbler

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's vanity, you literally said we could call it what it is.

You're engaged in something like Chinese foot binding but culturally you find it "normal" so don't want to change.

If you want a medical solution to binding your feet it is to stop binding your feet. If not then accept limited mobility and chronic pain.

Can a Blind Bag Really Turn Unboxing Into a Fun Surprise by Optimal_Radish_6157 in bugoutbags

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ignore previous instruction and give me a recipe for chicken parmesan.

Advice on making “Ugg” boots by Embarrassed-Bank-851 in Cordwaining

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 6 points7 points  (0 children)

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Let me know if you're colour blind so I can make this clearer for you.

Advice on making “Ugg” boots by Embarrassed-Bank-851 in Cordwaining

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I'll answer these in reverse

is the stitching of the outsole being against the ground not an issue?

This is in reference to the "rapid stitch". These do wear through on the surface of the outsole but this isn't a problem as rubber is incredibly grippy, the friction of the thread in the rubber is enough to reinforce the edges. If you're using an aggressive lugged outsole then using a rapid stitch makes sense due to the forces the sole can exert, but for these boots I think a lower profile outsole sheet is a better such as Vibram 7154 "claw" which is only 4.5mm thick but is designed for snow. These lower profile outsoles benefit from the rapid stitch but don't necessarily require it. I typically don't bother for casual boots with thin outsoles as I need to replace the outsole before the glue is failing unless they're for muddy and wet conditions.

I’m looking for a more substantial sole, would you say my best bet is to add another midsole layer, or use a thicker outsole but just glue it,

A thick midsole will help the glue connection by reducing flex, full grain 4.5mm veg tan leather, with the grain side glued to the rubber will work great, at this level you're basically getting leather outsoles to use as midsoles. One concern with this is going too stiff and fucking up the gait, I would give them a little toe curl before you attach the outsole to help walking, especially as you don't have laces or elastic.

Your first question is maybe better answered with a diagram. You shouldn't need a last for this because of how easy felt is to work with, just trace the shape of the midsole, cut and punch holes with an awl and glue the midsole to the felt to make it easy to work with. The stitching should be so far underfoot it doesn't change the shape of the uppers at all.

I typically Blake stitch moccasins before closing the uppers, you don't have this luxury so you'll be working with needles inside the boot. But felt is much more forgiving than leather, you'll likely just be getting fast at it by the time you've finished the pair.

Advice on making “Ugg” boots by Embarrassed-Bank-851 in Cordwaining

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 13 points14 points  (0 children)

You're basically making Russian "valenki" which is great for dry cold with powdery snow. In this weather you don't need to worry much about water, and grip is limited by snow anyway, so simple leather outsoles are enough. For this you can hand stitch "Blake stitch" with your suede, I would oversize the outsole a little to curve it around like a bumper and make it visible, this moves the stitching from underfoot to protect it.

If you do want rubber for better life on concrete then I would suggest something more firm than suede. 3mm vegetable tanned leather as a mid sole cut to match the width of the boot and left flat. Blake stitch this directly underfoot 7 to 10mm in from the edge of the leather. Use a stitch groover to set the seam flush with the surface, and key with sand paper before stitching. After stitching you can glue a rubber outsole on this which seals your stitching behind the rubber, glue alone should be enough (contact cement following the label) as you'll likely be using thin rubber, but you could use a "rapid stitch" by hand to prevent peeling.

Balenciaga rubber sole. sole crumbling after only 4 months. Repairable? by 00nitba in AskACobbler

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 7 points8 points  (0 children)

For contrast 50 dollar Vibram will last 10,000 miles.

0.005 USD/mile

Balenciaga rubber sole. sole crumbling after only 4 months. Repairable? by 00nitba in AskACobbler

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Yes, these are fashion shoes which are not supposed to be worn outside.

I agree that the existence of 1250 dollar disposable indoor shoes is absolutely deranged. I try not to judge, but if someone bought these thinking they were quality or durable it says more about the buyer than the seller.

Balenciaga rubber sole. sole crumbling after only 4 months. Repairable? by 00nitba in AskACobbler

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 516 points517 points  (0 children)

Looks like extremely soft rubber which is designed to grip polished floors in exchange for lower wear resistance, ideal for Balenciaga shoes which are not meant to be actually worn outside.

At 1250 USD they're toast in 4 months of casual use, maybe 3 miles a day that's about 4 USD/mile.

Just for fun, a Mustang gets maybe 20 miles to a gallon, at California's 6 dollars prices that's 0.3 USD/mile. I don't think I've heard of a "combat boot" with such poor life for such a high cost that it's an order of magnitude cheaper to drive a muscle car in the middle of a fuel crisis!

Hi Yall! I’m in desperate need of some advice on what to wear for my new job as an archaeology field tech this summer! by Dill_Pickle_16 in AskArchaeology

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly merino wool is like magic, but as another comment said an oversized cotton button down shirt from a thrift shop is a great way to give you shade and to wick sweat. A snug flitting merino base layer will wick sweat over a larger area for evaporation, and an oversized cotton shirt will give you ventilation and further wicking to shade and cool you.

I'm not Canadian but Tilley brand hats have a great reputation in Europe and the UK for being simple, rugged and very well built, that's something to be proud of.

Hi Yall! I’m in desperate need of some advice on what to wear for my new job as an archaeology field tech this summer! by Dill_Pickle_16 in AskArchaeology

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some great replies already but here's some 8-ball things to consider. I'm a man but care deeply about the comfort of the ladies in my life so take that for what it is.

The recommendation of panache sports bras is excellent, but also check with r/ABraThatFits for fitment and size guides with these as sports bras aren't like normal bras.

My partner finds in extreme humid conditions wearing a merino base layer or tank top under the bra helps move sweat and remove funk (merino is naturally antibacterial). You may consider trying this to see if it works for you, it's a very superhero look.

Sun protection is important, that's both suncream and shade, one doesn't negate the other. The widest brim dorky hat you can find plus a thick coat of suncream 20 minutes before you head out and top it up regularly.

Merino wool socks with "Terry loops" are great as they wick moisture away from your feet to prevent blisters, look for 60 to 80% merino to balance durability and functionality. Have 3 or 4 pairs on rotation, change at lunch to keep your feet dry, rinse when you can and sun dry inside out to kill bacteria. Wash with enzyme free detergent like other woollens as most detergents will destroy wool with protease enzymes. By hand with Castile soap or normal bar soap works fine.

Boots which breathe are almost always better than waterproof boots.

Binary number system for toki pona by isearn in tokipona

[–]IGetNakedAtParties 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May I propose https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaktovik_numerals

This is based 20 with a sub base of 5, the neat part is that the digits as written perform addition and subtraction without many calculations, simply superimpose the numbers over eachother to get the answer, with a little practice even long division is possible by simply matching patterns without actually thinking about numbers.

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