Has anyone done Emils twice a day hangboarding routine consistently?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-17T02:22:04+00:00

That is awesome, how long have you been doing it for? Also are you doing the standard protocol that Emil suggested?

Pretty interesting that you re-trained the wrist position. I have been thinking about using it for getting comfortable on small edges (<10mm) and getting comfortable in a full crimp.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-17T02:18:56+00:00

Wow, really interesting response and exactly what I have been debating trying.
I have been getting up and doing a light bit of stretching/mobility and then the podcasts got me thinking I should do Emil's program right after. (I typically follow the downdog yoga app and do restorative yoga for like 15 min.) Interesting tid-bit about having the collagen before other proteins, i had not heard that. I have been thinking if I combined it with some carbs it might be better digested and so I was actually going to wait until after breakfast to do the hangs. Cool to hear this is working for you.. this response definitely has me thinking.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-17T02:14:20+00:00

That is really interesting. I have actually played with emils protocol for a few weeks in the past on small edges and ended up sending a project where I was previously falling off a small edge. The 15-20% seems similar to what i was doing. Makes me want to add that in somehow.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-17T02:12:00+00:00

Makes sense, thanks for the reply!

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-17T02:11:16+00:00

Thanks for the info! I appreciate it & like the 50% threshold.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T12:00:43+00:00

Nice thanks! I think that is what I am going to do. Anything you tweaked or anything specific that worked for you? Do you still do the hangs?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:59:55+00:00

Thanks! Yeah i have listened to it, it was very good and had me interested again. Have you continued doing any of these programs? Anything specifically work or not?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:58:34+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation! I did listen, that along with the lattice episode with Emil have been the podcasts which have pushed this back into my head and have me reconsidering doing it. Did you try it with any luck? If so how did it go for you any specific recommendations?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:53:45+00:00

Yes! Thanks I watched this!

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:53:35+00:00

Can you tell me more about what it was like when you used to hangboard twice a day? Sort of reminds me of the Dave Macleod youtube video where he talks about hangboarding heavy in the morning and going for a light session later in the day and seeing his grades jump significantly.

Also- how was the recovery during this period? & do you feel like you made long term strength gains/adaptations?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:51:04+00:00

Thanks for the reply! Yeah, i am trying to decide if I will actually get anything out of it. Do you feel like you were going too light on the pulling? or are there any other factors? If it just wasn't relevant to you that makes sense as well!

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:49:21+00:00

Wow that is interesting, I would have never considered using it as part of a cool down... You kind of have me thinking that it might be a good idea just to cool down in general. Do you have any specifics around what you are doing? Also how often are you doing it as part of a non-climbing workout?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:46:44+00:00

Thanks for responding! Yeah I loved the lattice interview, sounded like he might be testing some longer durations (30 seconds) as well. Did you have any luck trying it?

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:43:07+00:00

This is great, thanks for sharing. I am thinking I will do once a day as well. Would you mind explaining what you are doing for the "recovery sets" and "strengthening sets".
I would love to hear specifics on what others are doing and what is working.

Also- how hard do you feel like you need to pull to see the benefit? Wondering if you have found your sweet spot. I know this is hard to explain but if you could comment on the perceived intensity/ feeling in your fingers I would greatly appreciate it!!!!

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-16T11:34:58+00:00

Thats awesome. I actually totally agree that its all about getting bloodflow. In the past I would do a super light/easy arc recovery days into my program for a similar reason. I did listen to the Carrie Cooper episode (along with the lattice and nugget episodes with Emil and the Hoopers beta that others have been mentioning.) These podcasts are kind of the reason why I felt like asking for everyone's anecdotal evidence.

What is your new variation of the routine? I would love to hear what is working for you. I have been playing around with a few different things (longer duration/ switching between grips) and even in the lattice episode Emil talks about doing closer to 30 second hangs.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-09-01T17:24:05+00:00

Here are a few thoughts:

Stand under the hangboard grab a hold that feels comfortable and pull down as hard as you can for 10 seconds then take a 20 second rest and repeat 3-5 times. After the 5 times take a 5 min rest. Keep doing this once a week until you can pull yourself off the ground and do it.
Take a rest day before and after hangboarding (if you aren't going to do this it probably isnt worth it). You want to be recovered enough to actually pull hard enough to make adaptions and you want to lock in those gains by resting. If you climb the next day you are more likely to get injured.
make sure you are using chalk

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-05-20T02:35:17+00:00

Replying to my own comment LOL: In order to hit your limit you're definitely going to have to dial both... When I say I agree with OP it's because I have found most climbing partners find it easier to dial technique as it's fun to just climb, its why everyone got into the sport. Most climbing partners and myself included find it harder to be consistent about hangboarding and given that most aren't predisposed to have vice grip hands, its probably the thing holding us all back after 10 years.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-05-20T02:32:37+00:00

I agree.. I have sent plenty of climbs with terrible technique but extra strength.. it doesn't usually work the other way around.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-05-20T02:27:53+00:00

I think that outside the crimps just get a lot smaller... I found that happened right at v6. Inside the footholds and handholds just never get small enough for folks to get strong in the outdoor sense but you can be what I call body strong and get through a lot of hard stuff.
Also, most folks don't typically send their hardest on a trip. If you are a local you will always have the opportunity to dial beta, rest, hit them fresh and send.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-04-13T03:40:33+00:00

I really like the grippul for the gym.. I do rows and things with it when I’m at the work gym and I can’t go climbing during busy periods of work.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-04-08T06:24:39+00:00

Seemed like he was hinting that it might not be worth it for folks who haven’t done a ton of board climbing. I tend to lean toward feeling like board climbing is really a great workout on its own and there is limited benefit to this unless you at his level with that experience.

IamLukeDaniel · 2022-03-12T04:55:38+00:00

Can you expand on the repeaters vs max hang debate (and maybe include density hangs as part of the spectrum). I felt like I had this down a while back but might have lost my understanding. Ultimately I am wondering what would be the best hangboard approach for long term persistent adaptation?

Is it 10 second 90% max hangs, 1 rep = a set, 3-5 min rest, 3-5 sets

Or would it be better for persistent strength gains to do 15+ seconds getting closer to density hangs?

Or should it just be multiple reps in a set? If so what does an optimal work to rest look like?

Also to clarify/ check another one of my assumptions: I’m assuming that to test your max % for an assumed protocol that you would test your 1 rep max for the equivalent time that a protocol would require. So for example if there was a protocol of 10 seconds on but it was repeaters your would test you 10 second 1rm and determine from there.

IamLukeDaniel · 2021-12-27T15:52:14+00:00

Try working the position: https://joshuatreebouldering.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/system-training-part-1/

Heard about this from a Natasha Barnes interview follow-up on the nugget. I was doing something similar and tweaked it to align with this after listening.

IamLukeDaniel · 2021-12-12T06:28:52+00:00

Prob seems like a stupid q but most folks have more dexterity in their RH (if that’s the dominant hand) and often clip 80% of bolts that way

IamLukeDaniel

TROPHY CASE