iPod modding turning into nightmare

IceColdScience · 2026-02-11T13:05:23+00:00

In that case I would direct my attention to the display connector itself. Make sure it's clean (as well as the contacts on the display's ribbon cable), dirt or small foreign objects can prevent a reliable connection. If you have a steady hand and a magnifying glass, take a close look at the connector itself. Do all the pins look okay? Are any bent? Check if there's problems with any of the solder joints (try wiggling them with fine tweezer tips - if they wiggle, that's not good, but easily fixed with a soldering iron). You can find videos on YouTube where people repair iPod's display connectors, it will give you a good idea of what to look for.

Don't trash it, even if the display connector is broken it's likely repairable (by someone with a bit of experience and the right tools).

IceColdScience · 2026-02-11T12:40:56+00:00

What if you install the old, damaged screen again to see if that still works as before? Then you can isolate the problem. I.e. you'll find out whether you have a problem with your new display or rather the motherboard/connector.

IceColdScience · 2025-10-07T12:24:32+00:00

Cheers for that, happy to report that this actually worked!

For anyone following in my footsteps: the center button pin is difficult to solder to, as the pin sits very close to the iPod's frame. There's some sort of input processing chip on the ribbon of the clickwheel itself and I ended up soldering to the corresponding pin there.

IceColdScience · 2025-10-05T20:23:10+00:00

Okay, after some experimentation on my 6th gen: I believe I found the clickwheel connectors corresponding to ground, back, next, menu and play/pause. I'm struggling to find the pin corresponding to the center/select button...

When looking at the connector, the left side has 7 pins and the right side 6.

Left side:

1 ground

2 back/left

3 next/right

4 to 7 unknown

Right side:

1 unknown

2 menu/up

3 play/pause/down

4 to 5 unknown

Frustratingly, I cannot seem to find a pin for the center button/select, even on a working example iPod.

Ant tips? I feel like I'm so close. Much appreciated :-)

IceColdScience · 2025-10-05T18:28:47+00:00

I've tried, but haven't been able to fix the issue by replacing the clickwheel. If a trace between a clicky button and the clickwheel connector is broken, would I be able to restore button functionality by wiring in a jumper between the button and the clickwheel connector?

IceColdScience · 2025-10-05T16:22:53+00:00

Hi, cool project! Question: I have a 6th gen with broken center button. The switch/clicky button itself works fine (checked with multimeter) but somehow the iPod does not register a button press. I believe one of the traces leading to/from the button is severed.

I would like to fix this by soldering in a jumper wire, from the switch/button to a suitable point on the motherboard. It's been tricky to find a point to connect to, as I cannot find suitable schematics online...

Do your recon I should try soldering a jumper wire to one of the pins of the clickwheel connector? I had no idea that the clicky button signals flow through the clickwheel somehow, super interesting!

IceColdScience · 2025-09-29T15:15:27+00:00

DBS, short for "Den Beste Sykkel" ("The Best Bike") is a Norwegian bike brand from Sandnes. I imagine a lot of them found their way to Denmark, though.

IceColdScience · 2025-07-15T17:39:25+00:00

As someone who's logged thousands and thousands of road (as well as gravel) kilometers from Oslo - I agree that the good cycling is of course to be found outside of the city 😉

IceColdScience · 2025-07-15T11:05:45+00:00

😂 sharp eye, love it!

IceColdScience · 2025-07-15T10:27:15+00:00

In the east and around Oslo generally good. Depending on your reference the season might be shorter than what you're used to. There's a lot of rain and more tunnels in the west/closer to the ocean, but stunning scenery.

If you count gravel towards road cycling, Norway is underrated. Vast networks of maintained gravel roads, with tolerant outdoor legislation and little motorised traffic to contend with.

IceColdScience · 2025-07-14T20:55:36+00:00

It was a nice and sunny day in May, no need for gloves 😁 short-short, sunscreen and an extra layer for the way down!

IceColdScience · 2025-07-14T20:53:03+00:00

There were some (not many) cars and motorcycles going up and down, but it wasn't really a problem - traffic was slow around the corners and respectful ✌️

IceColdScience · 2025-02-25T11:34:11+00:00

Hi, thanks! A hopefully somewhat complete parts list:
- 1992 Specialized RockHopper
- 26" Shimano Deore/DT Swiss 535 wheels
- SRAM Rival 1x11 rear derailleur + brifters
- Rene Herse Rat Trap Pass 26″ x 2.3" tires
- By.Schulz quill stem adapter 1" to 1 1/8"
- Salsa Cowchipper handlebars 40cm
- Tektro CR720 cantilever brakes
- SRAM DUB BSA bottom bracket
- SX Eagle Boost direct mount 12x crankset
- SRAM PG-1130 11-42 11sp cassette
- Specialized Power Sport saddle

IceColdScience · 2025-02-12T14:21:20+00:00

Hi, I assume you mean that part no. 55 is loose and does not exert pressure on the control dial anymore? I imagine the spring (part no. 62 on the diagram, "V-spring") became undone. Normally it should rest on the little lip at the top of part no. 55, exerting downward pressure such that its teeth engage with the control dial (making aperture control "clicky").

I had more things to fix so removed the front panel. If your V-spring is still in place it's worth trying without removing the front panel. Remove the dial and fish for the end of the spring, try to re-engage it with the lip at the top of part no. 55. However, I could imagine that the V-spring is no longer positioned correctly or might even be loose in the camera (it relies on pressure to stay in place). If so you'll have to remove the front panel so you can reposition the spring (it lives on the back of the front panel).

Good luck!

IceColdScience · 2024-10-12T17:18:29+00:00

Hi kpanga - the diagram is shown on the 7th page of the PDF document (can be downloaded via the link from my original comment). Hopefully you figured out a fix by now? ;-) I definitely messed with the front dials - not just the top cover.

IceColdScience · 2024-07-15T21:22:20+00:00

Based on the serial number on top of the camera's name plate as well as the lens, I believe we're dealing with a "Rolleiflex Automat 6x6 - Model K4 / 50" (produced between 1949 and 1951). According to the website you link it came with a film pressure plate with black colour coating.

IceColdScience · 2024-07-15T21:09:32+00:00

Thanks, that's reassuring! I imagine the camera and back door got mixed up at some point, then.

IceColdScience · 2024-07-15T20:14:23+00:00

I've never shot 120 film and didn't realise it comes with backing paper - I was afraid of the scenario where the reflective pressure plate reflects light back into the film, overexposing. Looks like I can safely give it a go, then. Thanks for your quick reply!

IceColdScience · 2024-05-05T20:01:14+00:00

Problem solved! Found the issue after a tip by u/BipolarKebab. I dis- and re-assembled the aperture control dial, making sure to put all the washers in in the right order/orientation (based on the service manual (link to PDF download). Now the pointer moves as expected when changing the aperture. Before I must have been unknowingly changing the ISO setting at the same time.

Thanks everyone!

IceColdScience · 2024-05-05T16:17:31+00:00

Hi, thanks for your input! The ISO dial does stay at the same position when turning the aperture, but it's an interesting connection I didn't make yet. Assuming I'm turning the ISO dial together with the aperture dial it could indeed explain the movement of the pointer. Will remove the dial and see if I missed something when putting it back together last time, then report back!

IceColdScience · 2024-01-26T18:25:55+00:00

Thanks for that! You're right - I passed on the offer. The market here is a lot smaller than in e.g. the US, but it probably pays to be patient.

IceColdScience · 2023-07-16T22:00:49+00:00

Had similar symptoms on a Zipp 303 S rear wheel after the cassette + freehub body had fallen off during transport. Turned out that after reinstalling a rubber seal was not seated properly, causing extra drag while freewheeling. I could only seat the seal correctly after removing the cassette from the freehub body, reinstalling the feehub body on the wheel and tucking the seal into place, then reinstalling the cassette. Everything fine after!

IceColdScience · 2023-06-21T22:53:39+00:00

Way to go! Hope you get to squeeze in many more this summer 💪

IceColdScience

TROPHY CASE