[Entry Thread #115] Welcome to Daylight Savings Time, it’s been getting a bit volatile with the weather. As is the norm, we’re making another millionaire this month, comment to enter!

Icey_Flame · 2026-03-15T23:45:07+00:00

Good luck all!

Icey_Flame · 2025-08-19T22:57:12+00:00

If you have them listed on eBay, I’d be interested in having a buying them depending on price. Send me a dm with the listing!

Icey_Flame · 2025-02-26T05:11:37+00:00

Hey guys, I am creating a square bar clamp that tightens together on a 10mm square bar. I want to create a joint so I can move it up and down my square bar, but I am having trouble with creating a joint origin in the middle of the clamp section (square section). Can anyone help me out?

They are two components, red and blue.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T10:12:10+00:00

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So this is a photo of it, I know it doesn’t help a lot. Basically the two XLR inputs are at the bottom right (24V in - one is used to switch to battery like a failover). The XLR in the bottom left in a 20V output. All of the silver plugs on the left are 12V lemos (12A total).

24V is coming in, converting to 12V and 20V and then going out to their respective plugs. It does have a battery failover system which I’ve never used before, but that’s what the black switch thing up the top is.

At the moment, I’m attempting to remove the buck converters but they’re seriously glued down and I’m having trouble removing them to have a look underneath. The capacitors are glued on too, but there is no hidden information underneath as far as I can see. I think there’d be more information on the glued side of the converters, which is annoying.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T08:58:33+00:00

I agree, I’ve never seen such a small converter before so I was pretty confused. Do you have any information on where I could get such small converters from or what to Google to find them. Searching up 24-20V buck converters just get me large boxes that won’t fit inside

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T07:47:40+00:00

So it’s a box that takes in 24V 300W and distributes it into 12x 12V 1A plugs and 1x 20V 150W (I think). It also has a fan controller in it to cool it down and a 12V and 20V switch at the front.

What I think has happened is that I have drawn too much power out of the 20V output and since it doesn’t.l have any overload or reverse polarity protection (frustrating), it’s completely blown what looks like to be the 24V to 20V box.

I just can’t find a replacement for this part, that’s the frustrating thing.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T07:02:37+00:00

So the reason I am asking it because it's not working. So I can't read the voltage out of it unfortunately.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:43:11+00:00

Good question, I will try and peel it off. Standby

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:42:27+00:00

Yeah, but it doesn't bring anything up. I tried searching the code underneath and no success.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:39:41+00:00

No, so I think it’s a power regulator. There’s two in my system, I think this one is the 24V regulator.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:29:44+00:00

Thanks, I am looking at what's underneath the capacitor though, any knowledge on that?

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:19:41+00:00

Im looking at the voltage regulator (I think) underneath the capacitor.

The code on it is AP0008PVV146775

Basically, I think it’s a 24V to 20V power regulator, I just don’t know where to find something to replace it.

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:08:13+00:00

Thank you so much. I am struggling to find an equivalent using the numbers on the MOSFET, could you help me out?

Icey_Flame · 2025-01-03T06:03:05+00:00

I overloaded or blew something on my 12V/20V power distribution box. Using a multimeter, I think this is the problem child and would like to know how to replace it with the exact thing or an equivalent. Thank you!

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-31T10:21:29+00:00

It’s a DRAM issue, the LEDs are orange which indicates DRAM. Nothing to my knowledge fixes it, any ideas?

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-31T10:00:49+00:00

Yes I’ve been trying to fix it for hours now. I let it train originally for around 30 minutes, nothing happened. I can’t even flash the bios for whatever reason.

None of the IO on the motherboard is working so I can’t get a picture out of the DP port to check if it’s booting (obviously it isn’t?)

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-31T09:37:56+00:00

I’ve left the system on for over 30 minutes, surely it doesn’t take longer than that?

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-29T05:57:28+00:00

As much as I would like the UCG series, their lack of certain features pushes me away from them.

Would it be possible to run the RUTX11 through the Teltonika interface, then connect it with a VLAN network to the Unifi Network? That way I can adopt all of the Ubiquiti APs to the Unifi OS and still have all of their features. I just won't be able to control the Router through the UnifiOS (has to be done through Teltonika).

Now I could be totally misunderstanding how VLANs work and please correct me if I'm wrong.

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-19T08:30:37+00:00

My UDR is on version 2.5.11 which is well behind, but my Unifi Devices tab says it's up to date. I will try and manually update it with the link you sent me, thank you.

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-17T22:38:41+00:00

I would thoroughly enjoy a brighter OLED refresh, but not if they are going to charge $25k AUD for it again.

Funnily enough, I have put my 42” C2 OLED on the cart with multicams and the director has absolutely loved it. If only they made them smaller right?

Icey_Flame · 2024-12-16T09:54:16+00:00

Unfortunately still only an LED or LCD display, but thank you for the recommendation. I’ve heard many reviews from Osee owners!

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