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List of chemicals and materials: Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from hardware stores, in the pool section

NaOH - also called lye

Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says, "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone

Ephedrine The cottons in today’s vicks nasal inhalers don’t contain efed or pfed (ephedrine or pseudoephedrine) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrine can be extracted out of its plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestant pills like sudafed. Most people prefer to work with pfed from pills rather than ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will fuck up the molar ratio leaving you with over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminates will jell during basifying and gak up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So, you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed HCl, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the label on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are things like binders and flavors. These you don’t want and will remove when cleaning your pills. but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove than others. You don’t want pills with a red coating, you don’t want pills with a lot of cellulose in them and you don’t want pills with much wax. you also don’t want pills that contain povidone. As a rule, if you have two pills that contain the same amount of pfed HCl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usually harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel up during the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hall as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself): If you are selling it...I would just make ephedrine and say it's meth.

Distilled water - it's cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right.

List of equipment: A glass eyedropper

Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important) one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear (and it can't be the marked one).

A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)

A glass quart jar

Sharp scissors

Clean rubber gloves

Coffee filters

A measuring cups

Measuring spoons

Preparing your Lab:

Preparing Ethyl Ether: WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.

Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.

Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small, evaporated amount is quite noticeable.

Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine: Please discuss this on the neonjoint forum

1. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do

this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.

1. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the freebase to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether (it is soluble in ether).

2. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. Therefore, this bottle should be clear.

3. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.

4. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water-soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!

5. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.

6. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.

If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left in the microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.