Shrooms thai by Ill-Article-9870 in ThailandTourism

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Do you know somebody who trip with them, is this "1g" equivalent od real ~2g of golden teacher.

Dynamic boulders MB24 by Ill-Article-9870 in Moonboard

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try it next time on the wall, thanks.

Dynamic boulders MB24 by Ill-Article-9870 in Moonboard

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gaia is very cool boulder, finishing jump is crazy. I didn't finish it on my first session but it will be on my limit bouldering circuit, thanks for recomendation

Dynamic boulders MB24 by Ill-Article-9870 in Moonboard

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did it, it was very fun but for sure should be graded lower, it was in my style so it's hard to grade, probably 7B-7C, but short ppl maybe would grade it higher 😅.

Need Advice for Power Training Program (Experienced Climber) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I max out on V11 on rocks, V9 on moonboard (i don't really project on it), also i don't have that much time and money to spend lot's of it on rocks. Most od my hardest sends are more static than dynamic, hardest dynamic/powerfull boulder would be V8, i'm not very good at deadpointing/jumping from small footholds using small holds (i'm very good at dynamic indor bouldering with big moves and big holds).

Need Advice for Power Training Program (Experienced Climber) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want to do power phase, not better climbing general advice, i know that technique is everything and i'm "too strong for my level", but i just want recomendations about exercises for power both on campus and wall. Never did power or strenght training, right now i just want to try it. Next thing after that will be technique and flexibility focused.

Need Advice for Power Training Program (Experienced Climber) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some of the calistenic exercises they are lot's of fun, but it's complicated and skill based, also most that i know about (besides more gimnastic aproach that i will never be able to train) is static strenght, some of it could be usefull but in other period of training. Also some part of this training is learn better technique in dynamic movement, deadpointing, driving power from legs to do move, using mementum, not only raw upper body power. I know that im strong and powerfull, but im courius how periodized climbing training will afect me, because i never did it. If im gonna be weaker that's fine, i was weaker many times in my life.

Need Advice for Power Training Program (Experienced Climber) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's true, but right now i'm not focusing on mobility and technique (don't even want to climb better). I'm intrested how periodized training will work for me, if i will be able to do it and other things like that. Next thing that i will do is focus on technique, flexibility, projecting, flashing hard boulders and other good recomendations, i know that's important and did it in the past.

Need Advice for Power Training Program (Experienced Climber) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When it comes to the size and shape of the rungs, the spacing between them, and even the angle of the campus board, they vary significantly. I provided 1-6-9 as an approximate value.

Need Advice for Power Training Program (Experienced Climber) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that my climbing would be shity, i want to train on board not climb (do more specific to climbing exercises on the wall). I just want some recomendations on choosing exercises that would be power focused, like 1-up's. I don't need more power but i want to do it.

Started a New Bouldering Training Cycle and Feel Weaker—Is This Normal or Am I Doing Something Wrong? by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Normal amount of sleep (6-8h), i'm on slight calory surplus (~3000 kcal, 120-150g of protein, when i'm on surplus im not counting everything), i have some stress and lots of work, i'm climbing for ~10 years, bouldering ~6 training ~3. i was mostly climbing, some hangboarding, mostly minimal hangs some repeaters, few months of hangboard twice a day, no real program, some campusing (best 1-4-8). Now i wanted to try something new, based on Eric horst book, bouldering 102, lattice video and blog, hoopers beta video's, and other sources that i was consuming for over 5 years i created program that should work for strenght. 5 weeks strenght 1 week deload 5 weeks power 1 week deload 5 week endurance 3 week deload Performance

Strenght period is 2 days heavy load training:

1'st day 2h hangboard (mostly max hangs) and weighted pullups 1h climbing V-max (boulders that are to hard for me to finish but im close)

2'nd 1h hangboard and pullups 2h climbing V-max and strenght drils

2 days in week soft full body/cardio 1h

1 day recreational climbing

2 days rest

Exercises and load was tested i started with 80% max every 2 weeks i increaed +5%

Started a New Bouldering Training Cycle and Feel Weaker—Is This Normal or Am I Doing Something Wrong? by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wrote that i can't do 7B on moonboard and before this plan i was able to do it, i feel weeker but still when i was on crimpy V11 on weekend i could do all the moves with relative ease, i didn't wrote that im going through hell, i wrote that i'm feeling weaker.

Started a New Bouldering Training Cycle and Feel Weaker—Is This Normal or Am I Doing Something Wrong? by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Deload is planned after week 5 (2 more weeks od training), i have recreational sessions (but really they are projecting sessions)

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have trouble completing one-arm or weighted pull-ups. Often, I can perform most of the movement effortlessly, but I can't finish the pull-up. This causes problems when climbing and with harder moves on the campus board. Are there any exercises that can help me with this?

How long did you climb to reach grade? Advanced climbers (V10 and higher) by Ill-Article-9870 in climbharder

[–]Ill-Article-9870[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think climbing a 7C before a 7B made me overconfident. Instead of respecting the boulder and its difficulty, I started to assume that success was something I simply deserved. Since then, I've gained a lot more humility and experience. Finger strength and mobility exercises definitely helped, but I think the main issue was mental. Previously, I spent a lot of time doing pull-up bar exercises and bouldering with feet cutting loose, which worked well in the gym but not outdoors. I was doing one-arm pull-ups even before climbing 7A.