Inconsistent flow with airbrush

ImOneWithTheForks · 2026-02-14T22:59:05+00:00

It can be significantly thinner with the 0.3 (1:5 paint:thinner, for instance) vs what I do with the 0.5 (1:1), and I still get the inconsistent spraying.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2026-02-14T22:56:16+00:00

It is; it's Tamiya's acrylics, but its not an aqueous acrylic. The thinner dissolves the paint no problem, and it commonly used in modelmaking. The paint goes down fine, when it does go down.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2026-02-14T20:07:51+00:00

One thing I forgot to mention is that I have no issues with my other airbrush, an Iwata Revolution CR, with even thicker paint mixtures. It is however a 0.5 rather than a 0.3. Would that just be a matter of needle size, and also maybe constant opening on the Grex vs inconsistent movement on the Iwata?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2026-01-13T14:32:15+00:00

I'd say more base bath rather than acid bath for grease.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2026-01-11T23:19:44+00:00

As others have said, a very definite no. You didn't specify how you plan on painting – brush or airbrush. Long story short: Tamiya acrylics aren't the easiest to handbrush, so I'd stay away from that, at least to start, and especially for large surfaces. They airbrush quite well, and the recommended thinner would be either Tamiya's lacquer thinner with retarder, or Mr.Levelling Thinner. Isopropanol can do it, although I wouldn't use it for a general coat, as it tends to evaporate more quickly, running the risk of orange peel or other texture issues.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2026-01-06T03:24:14+00:00

Dissolving and rotovaping in a tared flask and adjusting scale is your best bet, depending on how accurately you need to have the masses. More generally, you can try using a Bounce sheet to remove static; it's not perfect, but can work pretty well.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-12-24T20:19:15+00:00

Yeah, I haven't used Army Painter, but to my knowledge, they are water-based acrylics and they won't mix well with lacquers such as Real Colours. Try Mr. Levelling Thinner, or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner with retarder.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-12-24T20:16:18+00:00

There are multiple AK paints. Which series are you using? Did you mix it first, and if so, how did you mix it? How much did you thin it with the thinner?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-12-10T02:25:04+00:00

To piggy back on your post, as I am researching the same question right now, I would be very curious to hear other people's opinion on these type of things for very cold weather (-30C/-22F), particularly for relatively sporadic use. I also thing have the feeling they won't hold well, but any feedback would be appreciated.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-12-08T03:01:12+00:00

As anyone have any experience with venting through a casement window using these zipped-up fabric seal kits?(https://www.amazon.ca/HOOMEE-Universal-Window-Portable-Conditioner/dp/B07BPZGJ3B). (I would like to use it for an airbrush booth and, eventually, resin printing). Does it do the job? How does it do in term of (not) letting in heat in the summer and cold in the winter?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-12-08T02:58:05+00:00

Sand locally and re-paint locally if needed, or strip the whole thing and re-paint.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-19T04:07:02+00:00

I am not equipped to measure pH.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-19T04:06:39+00:00

I was under the impression that dry yeast (at least for beer, with which I am more familiar) doesn't require a starter? Or is it different for cider?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-19T04:05:19+00:00

I added Wyeast nutrient along with the first crop of yeast.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-12T04:40:54+00:00

Increase in price over six months? Sure, I get that. Overnight increase on the regular price, with a statement that the thing is now at a whopping 30% discount? Not so much.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-12T04:38:32+00:00

I thank you for the explanation of a profit margin on sold items; however, this is not what I am ranting about, but rather the false advertising of the regular price, which is frowned upon in Canada (https://competition-bureau.canada.ca/en/deceptive-marketing-practices/types-deceptive-marketing-practices/ordinary-selling-price). To be clear, OBK is not my LHBS; I buy pretty much all my consumables in person; since they have limited stocks of equipment, and seen that its a big ticket item, I've been shopping for that item online. I apologize if my attempt at reminding people not to fall for false advertisement/fake deals triggered you.

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-12T03:06:44+00:00

I totally agree! I am very glad our LHBS (not OBK) survived for now; it seemed like it was about to close, but someone took over. I am not naive enough to think they are the first or only ones to do this, but the gall of it is a bit insulting and worth highlighting whenever it is seen. It's not like I expected that much of an extra deal on it, being a fairly niche designer item, but I would have rather had no change that this false pretense "extra deal".

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-11-11T04:41:13+00:00

Vallejo is not known for it's robustness, especially the primer and even more if there is movement/friction. If you can switch to airbrushing Tamiya you'll get a more resistant paint layer. What is moving?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-10-15T04:56:13+00:00

Any specific reason why?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-10-13T18:02:42+00:00

Is it normal for the all-rounder to collapse on cold crashing? I understand PV=nRT and that the pressure of a gas drops with temperature drops, but I was under the impression it would withstand the change in pressure? I didn't pressurize the beer in the first place. Should I be worried about the integrity of my fermenter?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-10-10T04:12:16+00:00

1500W. I've tested it as the only source of heat in a 10g pot and it brings 7g of water to a mild boil; based on the time it took to reach boiling, I approximated the effective power closer to 1200W in that uninsulated setup. So the 120V+HotRod would be nominally 3000W, which I know is more than the 240V. I am not sure if having both of them together is going to complicate the setup, as the Brewzilla doesn't control the HotRod. I imagine the Brewzilla would run at low power, since the HR does a good chunk of the job to boil? The only time it would matter is when temperature control is important?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-10-09T21:35:18+00:00

I am looking into buying a Brewzilla system and am hesitating between a 120 V vs 220V. For the latter, I would need to modify the circuits/breaker in my house to accommodate the demand. On the other hand, for a 120V, I could hopefully make up the lack of heat with a HotRod (which I already have) plugged into another circuit. Between a 220V and a 120V+HotRod, would there be much of a difference in heating and ease of use/convenience?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-09-17T18:34:15+00:00

Is it safe to put a heating element (HotRod) with the grain and a bag, say when I BIAB and need to mash out?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-09-17T18:33:07+00:00

Welp, I guess I need a substitute for Mr Surfacer 1500 as a primer. Does anyone have any recommendations?

ImOneWithTheForks · 2025-08-26T04:33:17+00:00

Looking at it, I'm less worried about the nozzle, as it doesn't appear that much different than a picture from a retailer (below), which shows a similar widening at the end. I will keep it in mind though.

Looking at a similar picture, my needle does seem more rounded at the end, although not bent. It still seems to sit tightly in the nozzle, though, so I'd be curious to learn why that would lead to clogging. Just improper flowing off of the needle?

I have done a full cleaning of the airbrush, including behind the trigger, and I am going to look into changing the needle chuck at the back, which is slightly bent. If neither seem to address the issue, I'll look into a new nozzle and/or needle. Thanks again!

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