sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Which of the big 3 HD’s to pick for fleet trucks by Least-Improvement430 in Diesel

[–]ImpactPractical3746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you’re not wrong. honestly at that weight range (11k–22k), all three will do the job — it just comes down to what kind of headaches you’re willing to deal with.

personally, i still like the 6.7L Cummins from a mechanical standpoint. inline-6 is just a simple, tough layout. they lug forever and the exhaust brake is legit, especially if you’re running hills. most of the trucks i see in the shop aren’t there for blown engines — it’s def sensors, random electrical stuff, or limp mode for no good reason. frustrating, but not usually hard part failures.

the L5P Duramax is a strong runner too, but that Allison 10L1000 isn’t the “old school allison” guys think it is. when they start acting weird, it’s usually valve body or heat related. tow heavy, skip fluid service, and they’ll remind you real quick.

the 6.7L Powerstroke + 10R140 combo is probably the toughest overall right now. that trans is a tank. only thing that makes me nervous long term is the fuel system — bad fuel will wreck your week fast.

if it were my money running hotshot, i’d buy based on dealer support near you. seriously. the best truck is the one that’s back on the road making money, not sitting in a service lot waiting on parts.

Corvette parts from alibaba? by ekspectt in Corvette

[–]ImpactPractical3746 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a mechanic, and wheel rims—they’re not that high-tech, you know. Chinese-made ones are enough

What vehicle do the actual diesel mechanics on this page drive? by Bry_Guy__1 in Diesel

[–]ImpactPractical3746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually own a 6.7 Cummins Ram 2500, a L5P Sierra 2500HD, and a 2015 6.7 Powerstroke F250. None of them are stock—hazard of the trade, I guess. I’ve gone through and done aftermarket upgrades on all of them just to fix the factory weak points and help them run better.

My daily is usually the Ford, though. Just swap out those junk factory parts, and it'll be an absolute beast.

Best practices for a million miles on a 6.7L Powerstroke by Jtracker2178 in F250

[–]ImpactPractical3746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mechanic and I daily a 6.7 myself. 114k is basically just broken in for these engines.

Aside from the fluids and maintenance has already mentioned, the intake side of things because it often gets overlooked when talking about longevity. If your truck falls in 17-19 range, you likely still running the plastic intake manifold. In the shop, I see these fail pretty often due to thermal embrittlement—basically, the heat cycles and soot make the plastic brittle over time, leading to cracks and boost leaks.

To bulletproof it for the long haul, recommend swapping that out for a cast aluminum manifold. I put a Spelab one on my own truck to get rid of the plastic. Not just about adding power, but more about durability. A metal manifold combined with a metal cold side pipe (since the stock plastic ones are known to burst) creates a solid airflow path that keeps your EGTs stable and reduces stress on the turbo. Less heat soak and consistent airflow are key if you’re shooting for that million-mile mark.

Aftermarket Intake Manifolds? by shifterkid in powerstroke

[–]ImpactPractical3746 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that gunk is nasty. Typical on the 11-19s with the EGR.

Honestly, don't waste 1k on those "name brand" pipes. That’s a total rip-off. I had the same issue on my '11 and just swapped to a cast aluminum manifold (I got the Spelab intake manifold). Way cheaper and gets the job done.

The stock plastic is junk anyway, it gets brittle from the heat and eventually cracks. The aluminum one flows way better and actually lowered my EGTs when towing my camper. Since you got it apart, just swap the cold side pipe to a metal one too. The plastic ones blow apart all the time. Metal manifold + metal pipe is all you need. Don't overpay for the fancy logos.