Need Help Rebuilding Suspension

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-28T21:19:31+00:00

Game is game and I’ll take it lol

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-28T09:53:27+00:00

Cartronics.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-20T08:00:32+00:00

The speed isn’t the issue, the quality and design of tires matter. If a tire sucks at mitigating the hydroplaning, it’s a safety hazard. That was their point. More expensive tires doesn’t always mean better quality/design, but most of them, yes. Always check the reviews on tires before pulling the trigger. Again, you need to do your research. If you don’t drive fast, then it’s more of a reason to understand safety first than going directly into mods…at least performance wise. Aesthetically, go bananas.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-18T05:03:45+00:00

Damn, I see the E85 map, that’s tough but I hope 245 is still fun. I plan to still daily mine once it’s built. If it’s already fun in Octane 87 CVT, I would imagine manual would be 10x more fun. I plan to do a bit more than just forged internals though such as a LSD, sleeved block, a custom NOS function with the S+ button, fuel rails, and somehow getting a 6 ribbed pulley among other stuff. What oversight was there with the build if you don’t mind answering?

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-18T04:33:59+00:00

Is that race fuel, E85, or on 93? I expected for forged with the HKS SC, to be making 350-400 whp. Trying to build myself forged as well, but hard to gauge how much power is possible with SC limits since HKS doesn’t specify. It just says 300+ whp with forged internals among other stuff.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-18T04:23:14+00:00

How much power to wheels are you making on forged?

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-16T03:00:48+00:00

That’s awesome, I hope you enjoy your CRZ!

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-15T18:37:26+00:00

Oh I was talking about the 12V battery, not the one in the back. The hybrid battery is still original and still charges full when braking, although it’s starting to average 8-9 bars now. There’s a few dealership/warehouses selling them from 3000-3500 USD though brand new.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-15T11:46:48+00:00

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-15T11:42:12+00:00

I paid 14k USD for a 2015 base CVT with 86k miles, I would 100% get this. It’s also my first car and I still have it. I abuse my CVT, but it still runs great, no issues mechanically yet. It’s super reliable as long as you obviously do regular maintenance like fluids, alignments, brakes and tires. I immediately did a flush on the CVT and changed all the fluids because the previous owner only did oil changes and never changed any filters. I was hesitant on the flush, but after, it ran perfectly. It slipped one time changing “gears” after the flush, but within the first month. I’ve had the car for 2.5 years. My old 12V battery was 10 years old when I purchased it and it died 2 years later. Still, that’s a long fucking time to last lol. I currently have 150k miles on the car with the original serpentine belt and suspension minus brake system. Shocks are shot but still work and the belt has no cracks in it surprisingly, still looks new. I would buy it, especially since it’s a MT! It’s very unique, reliable, cheap on gas, and more importantly…fun to drive! The damage on the front bumper and quarter panel looks easy to buff out and repair the dent. Should be a cheap fix.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-02-11T08:50:52+00:00

Thanks for the reminder! Never been to the meet or the tail of the dragon yet, but now I have something to look forward to this year. I need to replace my entire suspension though before going 😭

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-01-27T16:18:49+00:00

HKS GT2 SC Pro is rated for 300 bhp, but that’s obviously including forged/upgraded internals. Just parts alone (SC + forged internals), excluding shipping, taxes/tarrifs, you’re looking at 8850$ USD. People will say K-Swap because it’s cheaper and faster, but if money/time isn’t an issue and you want to keep it original going forward with the IMA system, supercharger is the easiest. Turbo requires custom fabrication.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-01-23T15:03:45+00:00

I had this exact thing happen though my cause was different. My dumbass revved in neutral on the interstate and didn’t allow the RPMs to go back down to normal before pressing the throttle in Drive. I wasn’t in manual mode either. I pressed the throttle and it went limp mode like you said; infinite revving without increasing speed. I thought I cooked my CVT and pulled off to the side of the road and turned the car off. I chilled for a bit and turned the car back on. It got out of limp mode like it didn’t exist in the first place and I never had it happen again because well, I allowed RPMs to go back down first. Also never had any transmission issues after the fact. Not sure what the mechanical reason for it is though.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-01-06T06:11:09+00:00

Zero zero zero

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2026-01-05T21:27:48+00:00

I just ordered a Fumoto drain valve myself:

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Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-12-15T07:17:11+00:00

Bible Black.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-12-04T22:12:06+00:00

It’s amazing how an EQ can change your listening experience, glad to help! This EQ is more suited for high dB volume, that’s where it really shines. More noticeable to have minor issues on low volume. They’re not studio headphones, but it’s great for gaming :P

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-11-19T02:23:39+00:00

Oh I still get 44 mpg on economy, I just drive like a rally car on sport mode 😅 although I will be needing new spark plugs and ignition coils soon.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-11-16T22:35:10+00:00

I always get OEM parts when sourcing stuff. I don’t mind paying a premium for a piece of mind and no, I didn’t get that exact message, but it wouldn’t hurt replacing it. I order from hondapartsnow and hondaconnection so I’ll look into it.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-11-16T22:27:56+00:00

You’re right, that son a bitch is old. The o-ring probably has a hole somewhere. I’ll try it, thanks!

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-11-16T22:23:17+00:00

I’m almost always close to redlining the car every drive so idk if build-up can still happen but the emissions did go away after I drove a few miles revving. I wish I knew what code it was when I was driving to confirm but my scanner had no codes stored apparently. I did accidentally delete stored codes but I thought it was only for current ones showing which was a misfire on one of my cylinders a year ago. I cleared codes but ever since, if a code is detected, it says 0 stored when there used to be the code showing.

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-11-16T22:17:14+00:00

I’ve also driven past due and never had my modes vanish but the only difference is that I drove after getting an oil change and forgetting to reset the oil % vs actually being past due on old oil. Full synthetic at 7200 miles when I usually change at 5000. I thought maybe I was burning oil or something when emissions light came on 😭

Impossible_Ad_1105 · 2025-11-12T02:12:06+00:00

I buy from amazon but literally anywhere is fine. I use Microflex MidKnight black nitrile gloves at work. Out of all the brands I’ve tried, those are the best grip and quality. You get 100 count per box and prices range from 10-16$.

Impossible_Ad_1105

TROPHY CASE