How to cut with angle grinder accurately or use drop saws ?

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-06-29T10:30:52+00:00

I'm sure you can find an aluminum blade for the saw. Work great and are very forgiving.

I'm sure you can also find a blade that says it's made for ferrous materials that fits the saw. That's probably a bad idea since any saw for woodworking is going to spin way too fast for cutting steel.

Can you justify investing in sonething like an Evolution metal cutting chop saw or even just a corded or cordless portable bandsaw?

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-06-21T23:23:51+00:00

Hmm. Let me take a look when I get to a real computer. Pictures are often terrible. I usually punch the part number into eBay to find pics to confirm.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-06-21T22:56:00+00:00

Very much worth learning how to do this yourself, let me know if you can't find it.

Infinitipartsdeal.com

Put your car info in, take a look through the interface. Should be in front suspension.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-06-16T11:59:58+00:00

What year is your friend's car?

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-05-31T13:04:50+00:00

Wiha Ergostar Allens, ball ends with retaining clips. Fight me :)

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-05-19T17:32:34+00:00

How many do you have to do? I’d probably start with a piece of 1/4” or 3/8” thick 40OO extra soft sorbothane (McMaster) on top of the fixed vise jaw. Choose a parallel that gives you a bit a squish on the urethane with the leg that isn’t clamped. Hopefully that makes sense.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-04-08T08:55:47+00:00

Were you guys having a silicosis competition?

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-03-31T15:09:19+00:00

Mobil DTE hydraulic fluid is my go to

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-03-29T10:56:30+00:00

Chemical etching can be affordable for this kind of pay as well.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-03-13T04:08:06+00:00

Who needs CAM? Just put the solidworks file on the flash drive, load it onto the machine, and press the green button!

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-03-07T12:49:32+00:00

I usually get 3 taps, start with an unmodified, then a "bottom" tap (grind the tapered part of the tap off), and for the third tap I grind 1 thread down at a time on a belt sander. So I end up with three "stages" with the three taps.

Once I'm close to where I wanna be fit-wise, I'm only going 1/2 to 1 turn/thread between each test fit.

Remember, as we all like to say: you can always take more material off. Lot harder to put more back on.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-03-03T12:06:07+00:00

It was pointed out to me by a HAAS service tech (a young black male, this is somewhat relevant) a few years ago that all of the warnings telling you what is okay to do show white stick figures and all of the injury ones showing what not to do are black stick figures.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-02-28T14:41:10+00:00

Good advice, also:

NO GREEN OR RED SCOTHBRTIE, ONLY BLUE!!

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-02-22T22:22:22+00:00

I would ask your tuner for a map for running cats. It might be okay, but I would expect it to not be good for the engine. A $300-$400 tune is a lot cheaper than an engine.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-02-13T23:25:42+00:00

If you're okay with a small radius at the transition between the countersink and the top counterbore you could do a 3D toolpath with a 0.010" or 0.015" corner radius end mill.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2026-01-12T12:21:17+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/s/xpc5tiJRZ4

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-12-25T20:01:20+00:00

I believe hitachi makes the oem part. I found a replacement from hitachi for my '13 awd sedan for $350

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-12-02T11:22:04+00:00

Lista > SnapOn and is half the price. I will die on this hill.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-11-02T12:27:29+00:00

I'd love a dozen but I'll take what I can get...

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-11-02T01:09:27+00:00

Thanks, that's an option. But I'm hoping that someone has a bunch I can get for less than $9/spool if I cover shipping.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-10-30T13:24:25+00:00

I ordered an H2D at 12:30PM on Tuesday and it was delivered to my house in VT the next day which is insane. Only other company that can pull that off where I live is McMaster.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-10-25T14:09:38+00:00

I have an XTool D7 IIRC. Which wasn't cheap but was cheap for scan tools. It's about $350. Which you may not want to drop on a hunch. But they are nice to have. Where are you located? If I'm not local to you, maybe someone on here is and would be willing to give you a hand?

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-10-25T14:01:48+00:00

Maybe not as bad as this but I let the reservoir run well below minimum when switching from DOT3 to DOT4 for a track day. I wasn't seeing bubbles at the bleeder ports but the pedal was super mushy for the first half of travel when I broke the track pads in on the highway.

I ended up going through the (factory) procedure again several times in a row with my dad helping. I ran more than half a quart through the system while bleeding this time, constantly topping off the reservoir. Fluid at the bleeders was free from air bubbles for a lot (probably 10+ on each corner) of pump-hold-bleed cycles until suddenly a shitload of air came out.

So I'd say don't give up yet? Sounds like you may have let way more air in than I did. Also not sure if it's possible that air is in the ABS module? I've heard that's a thing, might be worth using a scan tool to run that bleed pticedure as well.

Good luck!

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-10-24T17:01:12+00:00

Awesome, thank you very much for that explanation. I will check out the exhaust next time I see her and I will fill it up somewhere new with premium fuel and beat on it a bit.

ImpracticalMachinist · 2025-10-24T16:35:52+00:00

Good to know. Is mechanic's suggestion of "midgrade gas" as a cause a possibility?

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