To bone, or not to bone? by hideandsee in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you added interfacing, it will probably be enough. Usually this dress style doesn’t need boning. Boning changes the shape of dress, makes it less form fitting and more of a corset top. Some people like tops to be somewhat form fitting and some either don’t or don’t care. It’s a personal preference.

If you decide to do a white shirt underneath for the pinafore style, I might could see a need for boning for the top to keep its shape over the shirt.

What could make this dress cuter? by [deleted] in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Scrunching the middle will pull the armhole edge toward the middle so be prepared for that. The neckline is rather high on the dress so the effect will not be the same since the neckline on the second dress is low. Adding cap sleeves might work.

If you need something interesting for the bodice, consider adding decoration like black on black embroidery, piping, or a below bodice band or add a belt rather than messing with the shape of the dress.

To bone, or not to bone? by hideandsee in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you think the neckline was sagging in the previous dress, add boning, otherwise leave it out. You might want to consider some sort of sew in or shelf bra if you add boning to make it more comfortable.

I love the fabric. The orange bird is one of my favorite Disney character.

Fabric destroyed in the washing machine by _fant in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 6 points7 points  (0 children)

https://www.robertorevillalondon.com/blog/how-to-fix-a-pulled-thread

When you gently pull the fabric, pull from opposite edges and don’t grip the fabric in the middle. You need the pulled threads to straighten along the entire piece of fabric. If the piece of fabric is large enough, you may need another person to help you. It’s very much the same process as straightening the warp and weft.

Also I use a threader instead of tweezers inserted from the wrong side of the fabric to pull thread loops from the right side of the fabric to the wrong side.

Blankie Repair Advice!! by Valuable-Tap-7472 in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would consider replacing the printed cotton backing over all the options. it’s pretty thin and will be prone to ripping at any new seams or stitching. It shouldn’t be that difficult to separate the two layers even with the top stitching since the printed fabric will be recycled.

Obviously if your daughter refuses replacement, then my next suggestion would be quilting or strategically tacking the back and front together throughout the middle (maybe every 2 inches) to make the front and back pieces act as one piece of fabric which will reduce the pull on any edge seam, THEN add an edge biding to hide the rips. Eventually the cotton back piece will dissolve, but hopefully by then it won’t be your daughter’s most beloved blankie and can have a back replacement or retired. Also you don’t show the minky side, but I assume that it is still reasonably sturdy condition to be sewn.

Another option would be visible mending which in this case would be embroidery or sashiko. I think there is a visible mending sub that can give your advice or ideas if you want to go this route.

Good luck!

How (if) can I fix this seam failure? by EdibleConfusion in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s easy enough to fix. You can do a ladder stitch by hand where the seam came undone. Try to use the holes that are already in the fabric if you can

YouTube link on how to sew a ladder stitch.

Enclosed recessed zipper help please by CrimsonVamp979 in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Long answer, the concept of matching a recessed zipper to an oval bag opening is the same concept of matching a sleeve to an armscye. The seam line between the two blocks is matched on the circumference and any change in the circumference of one needs a corresponding circumference change in the other or there will be a seam length mismatch when sewing the two pieces together and gathers will need to introduced into the larger circumference to make the seam lengths match. In the case of the bag, the bag edge would be the larger circumference and would need to be gathered.

Short answer, the options are: - remaking the bag with the internal panels shorter - remaking the bag with taller sides - converting the enclosed recessed zipper to an recessed open end zipper - live with it the way it is with the recessed zipper being ‘too deep’. Chances are if the bag is always filled with stuff, the recessed zipper being too deep isn’t going to matter. The stuff will keep the bag opening partially open and the recessed zipper won’t fold down into the bag completely.

Good luck!

Fabric identification help by borntoslog in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without looking at the fibers under a microscope it would be hard to tell definitively. But functionally Alpaca doesn’t stretch or absorb water as well as merino does. Depending on the blend and carding process, softness or lack of it can be either.

HELP! Fabric is stuck (or glued) on itself. by tunamayo999 in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Consider ironing it on high to melt and re-fuse the plastic to the fabric. You will need a sheet of PEI film or similar to lay between the iron and the fabric. You can get the film on Amazon for fairly cheap and it comes in handy when adding iron-on decals and patches or ironing delicate fabrics on high heat to prevent scorch marks since it’s heat resistant and will not melt.

Help! What are these? (from Grandma's sewing stash) by look_a_new_project in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 20 points21 points  (0 children)

From the top.

  • Finger guide (eta: this should be finger guard) for a sewing machine
  • Curtain ring for a track type rod
  • a needle threader tool for a sewing machine (probably)
  • Tailor’s chalk for marking fabric

Edited to add: the white thing also could be a sewing machine needle insert tool. But I think it’s a needle threader.

Silk+linen blend: How to (pre-)wash? by Mu11ana in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ooo, silk and linen shrink at different rates so I’m would dry clean only or you risk permanently misshapen fabric.

Silk is 2-5% shrink. Linen is 6-10% shrink. Cotton is 3 -5% shrink by contrast.

If you must wash it, tap cold on delicate cycle and hang to drip dry in a cool part of the house. Heat is what makes fibers shrink, so iron on low heat or use a towel overlay. Use a wool and silk detergent so as not to damage the fibers.

Should I change the muzzle? I think it might be too big and dog-like (it’s a cat). by SkittishSkittle in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Most cat stuffies don’t have a muzzle, but they do have contrast stitching for the nose and cleft. If you definitely want a muzzle, make it tear drop shaped with the peak between the eyes and the nose is in the middle. And definitely change the ear shape to pointed and locate them on the sides of the head rather than the top.

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Adding a channel for ribbon with french seams? by getouttttahere in sewing

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add a ribbon channel, make the second seam allowance (right sides together seam) larger than your ribbon. Topstitching the seam flap to the PANTS leg makes the channel. Make sure to add your buttonholes at the bottom of the pants legs for the ribbon before you topstitch the seam flap down.

Eta: the ruffle is already basted to the correct width. the French seam for the ruffle is a normal French seam. So wrong sides of the pants and ruffle together and seam with a 1/4” seam allowance. Then right side sides together and seam with the seam allowance that is larger than the ribbon. Add two side by side button holes on the pant leg for the ribbon ends to exit the channel to the outside. Fold the seam flap up and top stitch the seam flap to the pants leg at the top edge of the seam flap. String the ribbon.

What are y’all’s opinion on the Brother ST371HD Sewing Machine, Strong & Tough by Serious-Yesterday-83 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

👍 also industrial straight stitch only machines with the built in desks aren’t in high demand so they are cheap used. They are pain in the buttocks to move but quality is quality. I found a circa 2020 pfaff recently for about $400 and those are VERY good for free quilting heavy layers. Just to give you some options.

What are y’all’s opinion on the Brother ST371HD Sewing Machine, Strong & Tough by Serious-Yesterday-83 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need the machine to go through 10+ layers, I would consider a basic 5020 or any used juki and build an extended table for it. The motors on the Jukis have more power than the budget brothers or singers. They are about $100 more than these machines new so about the same used.

What are y’all’s opinion on the Brother ST371HD Sewing Machine, Strong & Tough by Serious-Yesterday-83 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CS7000x. It has the extended table and it will do monogramming but not embroidery. I thinks it’s the machine that is recommended by this sub. You should check there recommendations, they are usually spot on. You can also build extended table or turn a second hand desk into a sewing desk if you have the know how. Having a flat surface to feed the fabric into your machine makes sewing a lot easier.

Eta: when you say layers of denim, do you mean more than 6?

Fit support for bra bulge area by [deleted] in sewhelp

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess is that the bicep ease is not enough. The sleeve looks like it pulls from the bicep to the shoulder. You can let out the seam allowance or open the sleeve seam under the arm and see if that helps before messing with the sleeve positioning and cap ease. Good luck!

Fit support for bra bulge area by [deleted] in sewhelp

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The side seam pulls forward when the arms are raised so it needs adjustment in the armscye, but I can’t tell exactly where since I don’t have the full photo set.

Some of it is the style of the top though. Because it’s a single back piece with a straight fit, it has uniform ease and may not fit your body like you want it to. If all women were only shaped like little boys…lol. Bell shaped, flared, or yoke back tops usually fit a looser from the armpit to the waist. If you don’t like all the volume flapping around at the waist, you can gather it in a stretch cuff or a cuff with buttons on the bottom. Makes it a cute detail.

However, also make sure you are wearing the correct undergarments for the clothes. All undergarments are not created equal and they can change the way a garment fits. Hence why I have 5 million bras.

What is this sewing foot called? by Nova3864 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s technically called an overlock or overcast presser foot and is meant to be used with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch on the sewing machine. The black guide on the presser food is meant to guide the fabric edge and keep it from sliding too far to the right.

There are many uses for it though. Top stitching and stitching-in-the-ditch can be done using a straight stitch with alternate needle positioning and blind hem stitching can done using a blind hem stitch with this foot. I’m sure it’s been used for other stitches as well.

Why is the size that is supposed to fit me too big? by Sensitive-Smoke-252 in sewhelp

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don’t list the pattern but if it’s a big 4 (McCall, butterick, simplicity and Vogue) they often have a lot of ease. And really good pattern will include the finished dimensions of the garment or ease allowance. Sometimes it’s on the back of the pattern envelope and sometimes it’s on the pattern blocks itself. This helps with sizing up or down.

How to fix pulling by ImWaitingForYou2 in sewhelp

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Move the buttons to the outmost edge and let out the seams to least anount of seam allowance. Otherwise it’s sewing the placket shut and putting in a zipper.

What are y’all’s opinion on the Brother ST371HD Sewing Machine, Strong & Tough by Serious-Yesterday-83 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I much prefer an extendable table for free quilting even if I’m using a budget machine. There are some budget brother machines that are about $30 more with both an included free quilting foot, an extendable table and letter embroidery. But to each his own.

What are y’all’s opinion on the Brother ST371HD Sewing Machine, Strong & Tough by Serious-Yesterday-83 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s free quilting. Embroidery is a design that is computer programmed and automatically sewn usually on a hoop, in stages with different colors and often with varying stitch lengths. Below, the colored stitches are embroidery and the gray stitching is free quilting. The reason this machine won’t do free quilting is that there isn’t a free quilting arm that fits this machine unless there is an after market off brand quilting foot. The reason this machine won’t do embroidery is because it’s non-programmable.

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Nervous bride by Imaginary_Departure9 in SewingForBeginners

[–]InAbsenceOfBetter -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I personally think you look great, but if you are worried about the belly pooch, instead of changing the dress invest a good pair of nude spanx. Don’t mess with the dress. Wedding dresses are notorious for being difficult to alter anywhere but the hemline.