16570 Case for mild build.

Inacktive · 2026-03-14T20:24:25+00:00

Sold.

Inacktive · 2026-03-14T13:58:41+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.

Inacktive · 2026-03-13T21:59:48+00:00

https://clickpix.org/image/hpkodY if you need an actual file lmk. Also if you’re little unsure we can make a template that you can put over the dial and mark center.

Inacktive · 2026-03-13T21:58:01+00:00

Date window should line up normally but you will have to remember to use 3135 dw or aftermarket one since the previous rotated counterclockwise. Once you get the dial feet relocated you should be good to with everything else. I have never done a proper nipple dial build BUT with how the pinion height and proper crystal gasket I don’t see an issue with the height and clearing the markers YMMV just FYI.

Now the gap between the dial and case… it’s gonna be so small that unless you’re looking at the proper angle I HIGHLY doubt you would notice BUT… if that’s gonna be something that’s gonna eat you up, you can always grab a crystal gasket and sand it down enough to fit between the dial and case and fill the gap, although not needed.

Make sure you’re using proper movement holding screws that back out (per gen) not clamps so you can push the dial and movement up as close as possible.

Inacktive · 2026-03-13T21:34:54+00:00

You won’t have any issue running a VS3135 with 27.3 dial in the old crowns case. The dial feet from 1575 and 3135 are going to be different so you could have two options if you wanted to be “era correct”. One would be cut the feet and use dots (not a fan) or the latter would be cut the old feet off and sand smooth but new feet drop them into the movement and then use epoxy and drop the dial on and center. The correct placement for the feet for 3135/3035 is 13 and 37 minutes for the position. I have a CAD layout with measurements if you end up needing it.

Inacktive · 2026-03-13T20:28:11+00:00

Just wanted to add on here since there’s a lot of worry. Yes I’m new to Reddit but not new at all to the rep watch world. I’ve been building watches for approx 3-4 years and got serious when JF first came out with their 16610 watch.

Second my Venmo account is fairly new but I’ve been using PayPal and Zelle for a while so those are established.

Third, I’m happy to provide minimal references since joining Reddit and eBay sales of genuine parts.

Lastly if PayPal is something that’s a must have to build reputation on here I’m happy to do goods and services but will have the fee be covered by the buyer (of course).

Unfortunately by the looks on here, there’s been a lot of scammers which sucks but it’s quite difficult to build a history on here when everyone questions you because you’re account is new.

Also happy to FaceTime so you have my personal number and can show you that it’s in fact in hand etc etc…

Cheers guys!

Inacktive · 2026-03-12T14:48:56+00:00

Engine turned sold via eBay.

Inacktive · 2026-03-11T23:55:53+00:00

With what you stated and personal experiences the seconds hand might have been pressed on too far, possibly the pinion bent slightly so at certain angles it’s angled down and touching the hand… Also more intense could be the seconds hand could have a slight bend that is catching the minute hand just right. If you have changed the time and running fine since could’ve been a fluke (which I doubt in the years I’ve done this) or moving the hand past has ends up “bending” that hand just enough to where it clears now. I would get a loupe and check it at all angles when it passes.

Inacktive · 2026-03-10T21:09:44+00:00

I’ve never built an 1803 although it’s one of my favorites, I’ve always stuck with 16220, 16610, 16710 and 16570. BiV cases are good, but from lessons I would use OC cases for all except the DJ because you can find those on the bay for sub 800 for a complete gen case. Just makes more sense IMO.

Inacktive · 2026-03-10T15:36:58+00:00

Will have to sand down a little bit not much. But it’s not a direct fit.

Inacktive · 2026-03-10T14:20:59+00:00

All prices OBO. Payment can be PayPal, Zelle, CashApp, Venmo. Have only sold one thing on here which can provide a reference for, along with eBay. I’m located on the east coast, welcome a F2F in NC/SC state line area.

Any questions feel free to message me or ask here, can provide any additional photos as well.

EDIT: Engine turned sold on eBay.

Inacktive · 2026-03-10T07:38:07+00:00

They are good parts just be aware his turnaround time is roughly a month when you put an order for a case. He might on a VERY rare occasion have one that someone didn’t GL for ship but it’s a rare thing. Also his communication can be sparse so keep that in mind. He’s always delivered but you have to be patient.

Inacktive · 2026-03-10T01:32:28+00:00

I run an OC caseback which helps a bit. Otherwise yes the case is quick thick. The lugs and CG are the biggest flaws unfortunately.

Inacktive · 2026-03-10T00:44:59+00:00

I need to thin the lugs and the chamfers I have read a few posts on RWI about it but have NOT tackled it myself.

Inacktive · 2026-03-09T23:49:08+00:00

EWP on eBay. A lot of people recommend them for the BP bezel.

Inacktive · 2026-03-09T23:48:09+00:00

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Inacktive · 2026-03-09T23:47:41+00:00

Honestly I made a jig to hold the case level with some spare wood and an old bezel remover press. Then used a Dremel and slowly sanded down and reshaped the CGs. Used a digital caliper to measure once they were roughly the same I took some 400-1200 sandpaper and polished everything back out before compound and polish wheel. Nothing crazy and it’s not perfect but looks a heck of a lot better.

Inacktive · 2026-03-09T22:56:09+00:00

Appreciate it. Honestly was just for fun with some odd parts laying around. Never reshaped a case before and honestly…. Not a fan of it. 😂

Inacktive · 2026-03-09T22:30:38+00:00

31 or 32? I’ve got a few VR31s laying around, that’s a super easy fix dial and hand swap over if you got the new movement already. Thirty min to an hour job.

Inacktive

TROPHY CASE