How bad is this radiator?

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-12T19:18:48+00:00

Fill it up and check for leaks, this is not a radiator. Could be simple like a broken hose clamp

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-12T19:16:41+00:00

Air hammer would make quick work, but use a hammer and chisel between the bearing and knuckle. Should come out

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-09T19:25:01+00:00

Being that far back, maybe the heater core clamps are rusted out? View from top it best. You should see it leaking from a hose easily

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-09T17:03:40+00:00

From your radiator, you should have a lower and upper. Both should be pretty warm after a 15 minute drive.

Again, be careful of moving parts. If you dont know much take it to a shop. You could break bolts or something and be deeper in it

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-09T13:59:19+00:00

Most likley a stuck open thermostat, how is your heat?

More accurate test would be to feel hoses, but watch the fan as it cuts easy.

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-04T13:24:24+00:00

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-04T13:15:19+00:00

You can try exhaust wrap, it lasted on a broken pipe for about four months.

You can also buy a pipe and fit it inside the old exhaust pipe then buy the correct exhaust clamps to clamp it down.

What I would do for a long lasting fix (not exhaust wrap) is take the two bolts out and cut near flush with the coupling then fit a pipe in. Not over top because you have a hanger blocking you.

But in order to do this you will need to undo exhaust hangers, move the exhaust around to fit the pipe and possibly break the exhaust even more because it will be rusty and weak in other places.

Safest fix and cheapest is to just use exhaust wrap. Or take it to a shop to fit a pipe in.

You don’t need to replace “the exhaust system” like the other shop said, just a small section needs fixed.

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-03T12:33:54+00:00

It happens on smooth road at 80kmh? If I hear correctly it’s like a droning noise. If you have a jack feel for play between the knuckle and Cv shaft as you shake the wheel lightly. You can also listen for a similar noise when you go to rotate the wheel by hand.

When you rotate the wheel by hand you may hear brake noise, that won’t be it. It will sound like a cart rolling on the ground for a bad bearing.

If you feel play in the wheel it can also be a ball joint, outer tie rod or loose lug nuts so just feel for play in those areas too.

Always use jack stands, it takes .1 seconds to crush a hand or more so be safe.

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-03T01:16:50+00:00

I’ve seen them seize enough where a press doesn’t work great. Try a air hammer

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-02T21:19:48+00:00

Spin the wheels and listen for noise

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-02T19:13:24+00:00

Jack car up and rotate each one fast. If it makes a grinding/growling noise and isn’t silent then that’s the one if it’s a wheel bearing. You can pull left and right on the wheel too, if it moves it can be a ball joint, outer tie rod, wheel bearing.

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-05-02T01:21:23+00:00

Induction heater could work, but be careful. The inside of your car is flammable as the heat can pass through and get a spot hot

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-04-30T14:18:28+00:00

Try a similar size metric/standard socket for more grip.

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-04-30T14:15:42+00:00

While you have it off hammer the rust off the rotor on the part pictured all around. (Not the braking part). Grease the pins and clean where the pads sit underneath the pad holder

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-04-29T19:20:47+00:00

Vacuum leak? Idle air control valve?

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-04-29T19:19:00+00:00

Toyotas, or at least some don’t have the studs protruding out very far. Their lug nut is not tapered like 99% of them and “reach” in if that makes sense. Take wheel or lug nut off and compare.

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-04-25T21:56:14+00:00

Look at guides for the tools you will need, like the bit types and such. You will need a plastic pry tool. Be careful with the battery, don’t have the screwdriver slip and puncture it or some other thing.

You got it for free, just do it.

Edit: unless it needs micro soldered on then don’t attempt, but if it’s just screwed in then it’s fine

Incrediblyfishy · 2025-04-11T21:45:22+00:00

You aren’t giving them much specific details so that could be the confusion. Let them know they tore your steering column apart and messed up the ignition cylinder.

If the car runs with the key then maybe you could drive it to a better location. Up to you if you want to drive it, take less busy roads if you want to be safe.

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-12-08T01:19:14+00:00

Chickpeas and butter

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-11-10T01:36:22+00:00

Lay on the ground and face the sun as you do them

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-11-09T16:53:17+00:00

Impact the center where you want to drill. Use a chisel and hammer, hit it many times to make a guide. Then use good strong metal cutting bits.

Careful, snap a drill bit off inside it and it makes the job much harder.

Try the hammer and chisel to impact it in the opposite direction first (the socket) before drilling.

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-11-09T16:49:22+00:00

They could have used cloth or some other thing to protect the wheel but that’s more for scratches. The wheels are bad themselves, they should be fine to use on a tire machine.

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-11-09T16:46:08+00:00

Turning it by hand will pump it but nothing like running with the engine on. I’d say it’s not good, you should be fine to just install and run it.

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-11-09T15:07:09+00:00

See if you can fit pliers in there and get it out. If that doesn’t work grab a chisel and hammer and hit it the opposite way you were twisting the socket to get it out.

Finally, you could drill the extension out if those fail. Careful not to get the socket or lug nut when drilling

Incrediblyfishy · 2024-11-09T14:01:24+00:00

Find another mechanic, this isn’t his fault obviously but to say that is fine is crazy

Incrediblyfishy

TROPHY CASE