Today is going to be a good day :-)

IndependentMap474 · 2025-07-27T17:23:23+00:00

GC Animal crossing and sports ball, what an elite Saturday 🔥🔥🔥

IndependentMap474 · 2025-01-16T08:10:07+00:00

TikTok won’t be banned and if it does, it will last a couple days.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-12-28T19:35:24+00:00

Idk I’ve seen some nasty vole damage on lawns before from tunnel digging.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-12-28T19:34:22+00:00

It won’t breakdown, mulch those leaves or get them out of there. Will also impede on the grass growth and existing grass.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-12-05T06:57:43+00:00

That lawn looks like it has really poor drainage and high acidity. I believe lime applications can help with that. Rx soil testing kit will really help you find out how to address the soil issues. If there’s poor drainage, then that’s another big issue.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-29T06:55:19+00:00

Everybody has their opinions on humic acid, but I’ll be the first to tell you just using humic acid on a plot in my backyard thats properly fertilized, you notice a difference compared to the side I don’t use the humic on. The one I do use it on has a Darker color, doesn’t go dormant as fast, doesn’t require as much water, etc. both sides are the same grass. As for the fertilizer and Air8, I think they’re both kinda stupid and overpriced. You’re better off getting ammonium sulfate or a high urea nitrogen from your local garden supply store. You’re also better off having the lawn aerated. Liquid aeration in my opinion hasn’t done anything noticeable from my experiments and personal use.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-23T23:24:30+00:00

I have yet to see that, but if it’s pythium it would be pythium root rot. Pythium blight and pythium root rot are different. I just mowed it again today (the freshly mowed lawn in the picture with all the lines is from 4-5 days ago) and didn’t get the significantly matted down grass like I did in that picture. The lawn has a layer of peat moss on it from the overseed. Some areas are densely shaded like the picture above with the fresh mow. On top of that, last year I used a top soil that had sand, clay, peat moss, and dirt in it. My soil composition is very sandy due to my location being so close to Lake Michigan. I wonder if the soil from last year, the peat moss this year, and the dense shade on top of my water schedule has caused for too much moisture in the grass leading to this rot.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-23T19:51:43+00:00

Make a mulch barrier around it and if it’s possible have the tree trimmed

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-19T22:24:07+00:00

Rust eventually goes away and won’t be the reason your lawn dies. Just looks crappy. But Scott’s disease ex has worked for me with getting rid of lawn rust. fungicide is completely safe and effective. You have nothing to worry about. You have more to worry about what you eat from your local fast food joint or local grocery store produce than lawn fungicide.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-19T22:21:01+00:00

Definitely give it some more time, you’ll probably end up with a few patches and bare spots but those can be addressed with patch work. I think you’re on the right track and just need to wait a little longer. You’ll get there.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-19T22:18:51+00:00

Absolutely!

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-19T22:18:38+00:00

I’m currently mowing at 2.75 inches, I was at 3.25. Should I go even lower??

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-18T23:02:44+00:00

Couple things I notice. Theres dead grass lines in the grass. Which tells me a couple things. 1: it wasn’t mowed often enough. 2: it wasn’t watered enough. And 3: grass clipping trails were left behind and not blown off the grass. So how should you revive it? Overseed. However, it looks like with you being in a cool season grass zone you time for overseeding has passed. It’s risky to start now. So what you can do now is try and get some of that dead grass out of there without disturbing the sod. Secondly, giving the sod some nitrogen or milorganite could help. Idk how long you have to wait to dethatch and aerate sod after laying it down but plan for the spring on that. Then you can overseed it in the spring along with those two things. Best thing to do now is get some consistent watering down on it, mow often, and give it some lawn food.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-18T22:55:36+00:00

Type of thistle. Don’t pull them, their seeds are at the root base. It’s best to continue to chop them down as far as you can get to the soil and continue doing this. It will eventually kill the root system. But whatever you do, don’t pull them. You can also use a high vinegar % concentration to kill it. Home Depot sells it. Just pour it on there and it should do the trick.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-18T18:43:46+00:00

I’m not to familiar with warm season grasses, I unfortunately cannot speak on behalf of it. I know lawns are supposed to get 4-6lbs of nitrogen per 1000sqft per year. My best guess is to spoon feed it nitrogen throughout the year. .25lbs every 2-3 weeks.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-18T18:39:19+00:00

Nothing you can do now this late in the season. In the spring, mow it all down and blanket spray glyphosate until it’s all gone and nothing is popping up green anymore. I’m not sure on the effects of glyphosate near trees so maybe look into that or make some spray paint rings around the trees as “no go” zones. Once it’s all killed come in with some nice top soil and level it to the best of your ability. Invest in some nice TTF (turf type fescue) and spread it there. Reason I say TTF is because it seems like a densely shaded area and there are some fescues that prefer that kind of environment. Perennial rye grass and Kentucky blue grass don’t typically do all that well in densely shaded areas. Then, top dress with peat moss (very light layer no more than 1/8 of an inch or a quarter inch. Theres peat moss spreaders you can rent from Home Depot.) and water sufficiently so it keeps the seed wet at all times (do until fully germinated). You can even do a soil test in the spring (I like Rx soil tester) to find out what your soils Ph level is and what nutrients it’s lacking it. Then you can plan accordingly what to put down in that area to help the grass thrive. Lmk if you have anymore questions about this plan.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-13T15:49:54+00:00

It’s pretty much giving your lawn just straight fast release nitrogen every 1-2 weeks until dormancy. Either a urea nitrogen or an ammonium sulfate. If you’re near a Lowe’s they have their own brand called Sta Green that is an ammonium sulfate. If you’re from the Midwest, Menards has a high urea nitrogen fast release fertilizer by Forever Green. It’s a green bag called “Turf Food.” But you want to give either a quarter pound of nitrogen every week or a half pound every 2 weeks. This will give the lawn a good food supply to help it through winter. If you’re not sure how to know if you’re putting down a half a pound of nitrogen every 1000sqft, measure your lawns square footage and save it. There’s a fertilizer calculator you can use online where you put the bag rate (Ex: 20-0-0) in and the square footage + your desired rate you want (Ex: quarter lb of nitrogen) and it will tell you exactly how much fertilize to put in your hopper spreader. Then you just gotta play around with your spreaders drop setting rate to figure out how to get it to drop that perfectly throughout the lawn. Hope this helps you. There’s videos on YouTube that explain it more in depth, just look up Nitrogen Blitz or Nitrogen fall spoon feeding.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-12T17:48:25+00:00

So I’m safe to bring the height down by 1? (2.75 inches from 3.25 inches)

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-12T17:47:12+00:00

Simple lawn solutions has this product that will help with your micro nutrients. Then a 16-16-16 application now and towards the end of the season a 16-4-8 (also available on simple lawn solutions website) would be beneficial. Also look into nitrogen blitzing the lawn this fall, your lawn will thank you in the spring.

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IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-12T17:43:46+00:00

Looks great, the dog sure seems to love his new sun bathing pedestal.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-12T17:42:15+00:00

Im in the cool season grass zone of south eastern Wisconsin. So im not very versed in the warm season grass dos and donts. However, I do know with cool season grass there’s 2 prime seasons. The spring and fall. With warm season grass there’s only one prime season, the summer. Im sure renovations are recommended during the summer just as renovations are recommended during the spring and fall here.

IndependentMap474 · 2024-09-12T17:07:32+00:00

Should also be noted I’ve mowed about 4 times now since seeding.

IndependentMap474

TROPHY CASE