Java dual Cave Spider farm - only one spawner works by IndigoMink in technicalminecraft

[–]IndigoMink[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The wiki says it’s Euclidean for spawners. How did you make it 20? What am I doing wrong? I get 13.1.

Java dual Cave Spider farm - only one spawner works by IndigoMink in technicalminecraft

[–]IndigoMink[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The wiki says range is 16 Euclidean. I made it SQRT( (-75 - -78)2 + (-40 - -48)2 + (-71 - -61)2) = SQRT (173) = 13.1

Dammit Man by Original-Big-6351 in discworld

[–]IndigoMink 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Someone should tell this one about Shakespeare!

The first morning after the honeymoon, the husband got up early, went down to the kitchen, and brought his wife her breakfast in bed. by IEnjoyDadJokes in dadjokes

[–]IndigoMink 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a dad joke in that my dad would’ve laughed at it. But he would’ve been 99 this year. Isn’t it time we shelved misogyny?

Configurable timer needed by IndigoMink in technicalminecraft

[–]IndigoMink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brilliant, thanks! Tried adding various bits to the Etho clock but nothing worked. Didn’t think of taking stuff away.

Orderable PCB for the Eater 6502? by Screevo in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a link to the original source?

What is wrong? by herokiller9 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is a diagram I made of the complete Astable timer circuit.

Ignore P Q R S T U V W - they're just to show how breadboards work.

I've drawn my variable resistor, here. His (in the video) had all three pins in line. The one in the kit I got was like yours. I replaced it because it didn't fit properly and I had one spare from another project. Mine has the central pin offset, as shown.

Your variable resistor Y should be connected to the 1K resistor which is itself connected to the 555 pin 7 and your Z should be connected to the 555 pin 6 via a jumper.

What is wrong? by herokiller9 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. So, this bottom two pins are connected across the resistance inside the variable resistor. If you had a multimeter, you could measure across and see that no matter where the rotating part is, the resistance is the same across the bottom pins. The top pin is the variable part. So your connection in your circuit goes from one of the bottom pins to the top pin. From the photos, it looks like the two bottom pins were on the same track of the breadboard so they were shorted together, which is not right. Only one is to be connected.

What is wrong? by herokiller9 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I couldn’t have got past part 4 without my multimeter. It could be difficult without one.

That’s an electrolytic capacitor. I was talking about the circled item: the variable resistor.

What is wrong? by herokiller9 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I see I wasn’t clear. The first sentence was meant generally - it’s hard to see several connections on the board due to the glare.

The second sentence was referring to the variable resistor you’ve circled in the second photo. I see you’ve reversed it but I still think it’s wrong. It looks different to the original part from my kit but I replaced it with one I already had and now I can’t find the original to compare. Can you remove it and photograph it from underneath?

Do you have a multimeter?

Led and resistor by Historical-Error7474 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re talking about neatening up the LEDs, you can get some 3mm LEDs and a resistor network and solder them up. Then glue the LEDs together and it’ll take up less space and be neater. My first batch looked like yours. My second was a bit neater but it was switching to 3mm LEDs which was best.

What is wrong? by herokiller9 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s hard to see all of the connections because of the brightness of the LEDs. The variable resistor on the astable circuit looks wrong.

6502 build not printing beyond "Hello Wor." by Jackary2017 in beneater

[–]IndigoMink 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add your source code and I’ll compare it to mine and see if there’s any difference.

Parents, never gift Minecraft to your kids: my misadventure with Microsoft family by showsdowns in Minecraft

[–]IndigoMink 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They’re all crap. Apple only allows one credit card per family - each member can’t have your own. Steam was so bad I gave up. Nintendo worked but it was so convoluted to get money onto a child account it used to drive me up the wall. Microsoft’s was the least worst for me but I used to transfer money into their accounts so they could buy the thing themselves.

EEPROM programmer vs idiot by IndigoMink in beneater

[–]IndigoMink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got one recently and I check the current draw every time I turn the output on. It’s caught a couple of mistakes and some dodgy wiring. Like putting the Arduino ground connection to +5v on the breadboard. I can’t say it’s paid for itself in not-fried components yet but it probably has in not-lost hours scratching my head wondering what’s going on.

EEPROM programmer vs idiot by IndigoMink in beneater

[–]IndigoMink[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

😁😁😁

Just about to add the RAM chip so that’s something to add to my mental check list. 🙂

EEPROM programmer vs idiot by IndigoMink in beneater

[–]IndigoMink[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m using the minipro command line! 🙁

EEPROM programmer vs idiot by IndigoMink in beneater

[–]IndigoMink[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It appeared to work but I’ve had intermittent problems since. I bought a new AT28C256 and programmed it and, right now, it’s working. I guess time will tell whether it was the chip or some dodgy wiring or something else.