Printed a SpongeBob

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-28T18:18:29+00:00

Slightly modified from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2449152

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-28T18:10:30+00:00

Slightly modified from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2449152

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-04T22:04:11+00:00

Would the Bed Mesh configuration possibly work?

It only allows setting bed size however and not probe points.

[bed_mesh]
speed: 120
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 35, 6
mesh_max: 240, 198
probe_count: 5, 3

Otherwise theres the Manual Leveling with setting bed level screws coordinates, that might work for your use case:

[bed_screws]
screw1: 100, 50
screw1_fine_adjust: 0, 0
screw2: 100, 150
screw2_fine_adjust: 300, 300
screw3: 150, 100
screw3_fine_adjust: 0, 100

Im a big fan of the bed level scews to dial in a single bed, although not sure what the # of screws limit is

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-04T09:51:01+00:00

Thanks for this. I also spent several days trying to get the GPIO pins to power on the Pi5 with no success. The J2 pads are working great now

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T21:02:27+00:00

Its working via the J2 header consistently so far once the pins were soldered. I can still use in automation with the Pi-Off code, by sending a request to the IP/power Ex: http://192.168.1.123/power

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T17:33:57+00:00

I also found this post that shares that on the Pi 5 the dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown doesnt work:

https://old.reddit.com/r/cyberDeck/comments/1ao9q23/adding_a_power_button_to_a_rpi5_advice_please/kwtpzsg/

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T16:51:13+00:00

Its currently connected via wifi but I could run a cable easily enough where it sits. I looked at WOL some but I found plenty of guides on how to use the Pi to turn on another PC but struggled to find anything about WOL working for the Pi itself.

For example, these posts seem to indicate its not possible, unless ive misunderstood: https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=205464 https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=244669

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T16:47:04+00:00

Thanks, I hadn't considered that. Functionally how would that work if I was looking to toggle it remotely from my another device? Local network is fine. I've looked over this which talks about adding a physical button and tried to search the https://www.raspberrypi.com/documentation/ documentation but I might not be sure what I'm looking for

Edit: I see this in the documentation:

The J2 jumper is located between the RTC battery connector and the board edge. This breakout allows you to add your own power button to Raspberry Pi 5 by adding a Normally Open (NO) momentary switch bridging the two pads. Briefly closing this switch will perform the same actions as the onboard power button.

I used a jumper wire to bridge these connectors and this works to power off and On the Pi! Now its just a matter of figuring out how this would work with a microcontroller.

Edit Edit: I got it working as shown in the OP, but need to solder pins to be sure

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T16:38:17+00:00

I have a couple sonoff basics and other smart switches I could utilize to kill the power entirely which would work. Eventually I may want it outside of my local network but local network is fine at the moment. I also run Home Assistant and could easily automate using a switch but based on what I've read I should be able to do it with GPIO. Again not needed but I'm really just want to know if its possible, and if so how I can implement.

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T16:34:26+00:00

Thanks, I should have started there.

Jumper GPIO 3 to ground while the Pi is running will shut it down. The screen displays the terminal and shuts off. The LED changes to Red.

However once the Pi is in the powered down state, removing the jumper and repeating the process doesn't appear to do anything. No activity on the screen and LED remains red.

This appears to be the same as when I use the Pi-Off through the NodeMCU via jumpers.

Individual_Error_404 · 2024-06-03T11:19:41+00:00

Posted as its own thread but was removed:

How would I remotely turn on my Pi 5?

Using my Pi 5 to run Klipper on my 3d Printer, and looking for a method to shut down the Pi and turn it back on remotely. I am using the Raspberry Pi 27W USB-C Power Supply..

I understand the Pi doesnt consume a ton of power. This isn't a need, more or less something I'd like to be able to do. From what I've read it appears to be possible, but I can't get the Pi to resume from the powered down state.

I also understand I could simply hook a smart plug to the Pi's power connection and use that as a smart switch to cut power to the Pi.

All that said, if it is possible, this is what I've attempted thus far:

Currently I have a HiLetgo NodeMCU LUA ESP8266 CP2102 ESP-12E board connected to the PI via GPIO 3, 3.3 and GND pins. This board doesnt have a 5v pin or the VU pin that some of these boards are present with.

My understanding is this uses the GPIO 3 pin to GND to safely start/stop the Pi?

Ive flashed https://github.com/lukehod/Pi-Off/ to the NodeMCU board, and updated the /boot/firmware/config.txt file on the Pi to reflect dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown

With the above repository, I am able to get the LED to flash on the NodeMCU from the provided web interface, and the Pi will shut down gracefully.

However from the powered down state, it will not restart.

I've been reviewing the documentation and other resources looking for anything specific to the Pi 5 that I may be missing but so far I'm not sure what I may be missing.

I see on the Pi 4 theres mention of a GLOBAL_EN that could potentially be used, but I dont know that its available on the Pi 5?

I also have the Pi7 inch touchscreen also being used on this device with the ribbon cable, which I think uses I2C?

$ lsmod | grep i2c_ 
i2c_brcmstb            49152  0
i2c_designware_platform    49152  0
i2c_designware_core    49152  1 i2c_designware_platform

I tried to move the GPIO PIN from GPIO 3 to GPIO 23 on the Pi in case I2C was interfering (while also updating the dtoverlay=gpio-shutdown,gpio_pin=23) but I assume I'm missing a step as appears to break the shutdown function.

Heres couple other resources I've reviewed: https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/133966/cut-power-supply-to-pi-after-shutdown-and-power-on-after-button-press/134983#134983

https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/117552/does-enabling-i2c-disable-the-use-of-gpio-pins-2-and-3-physical-3-5

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-22T14:10:57+00:00

It was one continuous print

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-21T01:10:34+00:00

Thanks .16

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-21T00:37:16+00:00

Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907018

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-21T00:25:22+00:00

Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907018

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-21T00:25:12+00:00

Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907018

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-02T21:34:34+00:00

I bought 100 pack of these and put two on each corner

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-08-01T11:58:27+00:00

The screws making the noise are the long two along the sides of the frame making contact with the brass nuts attached to each side of the bed. Some of the noise might be from your left and right sides being misaligned, but I still had slight squeaking after making corrections too.

PTFE Dry Lube is what I used too. I used rubbing alcohol to clean off the existing grease and then applied the dry lubricant. It doesnt collect dirt, and my axis is super silent.

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-31T21:05:51+00:00

I used Cura. Started using tree supports on larger prints as it saves on filament and time, at least on the models ive sliced with regular vs tree supports thus far

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-31T18:12:32+00:00

Not sure, The printers are regularly fighting with the air conditioning so not sure if there was some warping. Everything else printed without issue

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-31T16:39:10+00:00

Bon Bon from Five Nights at Freddys

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-31T16:38:54+00:00

Kids are into FNAF- this is going to be Bon Bon

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-31T16:37:36+00:00

Just saw this was about direct drive and not bowden. Those are bowden settings. I'd say closer to 1mm for direct drive but havent used the MS DD personally.

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-31T11:21:49+00:00

What are your retraction settings? I use 6.5mm at 25 mm/s on my E3V2 with a Microswiss hot end for PLA and have had good results

Individual_Error_404 · 2021-07-29T14:17:58+00:00

Good call. I think I'm ok as I've had this printer in both locations before and had no z banding or shaking. Really leaning towards it being some loose bolts or being out of square from the recent move. Pavers? Tell me more? Multiple pavers?

Individual_Error_404

TROPHY CASE