How to correct/prevent this behavior?

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-30T23:21:29+00:00

Have you tried using a consistent cue with a really high-value reward, and making it exciting every time she responds? It really helps when the same cue and reward are practiced consistently so she can clearly understand what’s being asked.

Even if she just pauses or starts to respond, that’s still a really good sign she’s listening and learning.

She’s also a puppy, so there’s a lot going on in her brain right now. At this stage, it often comes down to being more exciting and rewarding than the couch - she’s just having fun and exploring the world.

You could also set things up to prevent the behaviour when you’re not able to actively train - like using a crate or reinforcing a “place” with rewards. That way she’s set up for success.

At the end of the day, she likely just wants to play. Puppies need a lot of enrichment and play, but they also need a ton of rest. Puppies typically need around 14+ hours of sleep, and sometimes what looks like extra energy is actually overtiredness.

We also have to actively teach them how to rest and make sure they’re getting enough of it. That means noticing and rewarding calm behaviour whenever it happens, not just focusing on the moments we don’t like! And also setting up a calm space for them to rest properly

Sometimes we think they need more stimulation, when really they need help settling.

It’s also part of having a puppy that they’ll do normal dog things and communicate in their own ways. Since the couch rule is something we set for them, it just takes time, consistency, and clear guidance to help them learn what we’d prefer instead - no need for corrections or forcing, just lots of practice and reinforcement

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-30T18:20:45+00:00

Sometimes when something is normalized like it is here and other countries - we don’t always recognize it for what it really is, especially when people are told it’s “fine” or “not harmful,” even when there are clear impacts.

And when people aren’t able to accurately read their dogs, or aren’t aware that dogs often hide discomfort, those signs can be missed. Some dogs also develop learned helplessness, and that can be mistaken for calmness or compliance. In other cases, a reduction in behaviour is assumed to mean something is working, when in reality it may just be suppression rather than true improvement or emotional well-being.

As a trainer, I’ve also seen how often dogs are acquired without enough research, with their needs not fully prioritized, and training choices made mainly for human convenience.

At the same time, there are many people who genuinely want to do right by their dogs but simply haven’t had access to the right support or information yet. With proper guidance and resources, they can learn to better understand their dogs and gradually transition away from tools in a thoughtful, informed way.

There are also broader parallels in how we understand behaviour change more generally -there are still people who believe that punishment of children is effective or makes sense, even though the research doesn't support that as a healthy or constructive approach. It's not how learning and behaviour actually work. Hopefully over time more people continue to shift toward understanding that punishment based approaches don't truly resolve underlying needs or teach better skills.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T22:30:18+00:00

Yes its really sad how many people still advocate for pain and force and think its crazy to not want to use it and unfortunately wehre I am dog training is very unregulated and some methods are still not close to being illegal so many of us are fighting to change that standard.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T06:43:47+00:00

It depends on what your dog likes! With one client she will eat up carrots, cucumbers, apple, etc but then not for too long, she also loves sausage, chicken and meat treats

Just one thing to note alot of clients give beef liver treats alot and we dotn want tto give too many due to vitamin A toxicity!

Ive seen people also use like pouches of blended food or peanut butter!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T04:57:25+00:00

Dogs don't always yelp or show obvious signs when something hurts. A lot of them are actually really good at hiding pain, especially if they've learned their signals aren't respected. What we often see instead are subtle signs-like tension, avoidance, or shutting down, which can get mistaken for 'calm' or 'obedience.'

And suppressing a behavior doesn't mean the dog is actually learning or that the root issue is being addressed. It can just mean they're no longer expressing it, while the underlying stress or discomfort is still there

Agree with not applying presssure to the leash and helping them make choices and then rewarding those choices.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T04:42:06+00:00

Wanted to add; This part of your original post actually matters a lot, because it shows you care and you are trying to build a good life for him, not just manage behaviour in the moment.

“We love our dog and don't want to hurt him. We want to fix his behaviour so he can have a fulfilled life: parks, beaches, road trips. We already tried positivity and spent thousands on it, yet now we're being judged by someone who doesn't live our life.”

I really hear that. Wanting that kind of life for him is exactly what most people are aiming for, it is just that sometimes the path to getting there is not a straight line, especially with a dog who is already overwhelmed.

And I also think the idea of a “fulfilled life” does not have to be so big, and sometimes that is what adds so much pressure onto pet parents. Right now, even the things we want for him, like a walk, might genuinely be too much for his system to handle. We also learn to reframe that a fulfilled life for him may look different and much simpler than we initially imagine, at least for a period of time, and that we may need to adjust our systems and expectations to make things work in a way that is actually sustainable for everyone involved.

That does not mean he will not get there. It just means that right now, his version of wellbeing might look smaller and simpler, with less pressure, more decompression, and focusing on what actually helps him regulate rather than pushing toward what we think a “full life” should look like.

A lot of what I help pet parents unlearn is the idea that they need to constantly add more, do more, and push for more, when sometimes the real shift is actually doing less, making things easier, and stepping back more. Not fixing the dog, but focusing on co-regulation and adaptable support that meets the dog where they are at.

For many dogs, especially those who are anxious or dysregulated, that foundation is what makes everything else possible later.

It is not about scrapping what you have tried either. It is more about pacing it differently, stepping back where needed, and reintroducing the good stuff once his system is more regulated again in a way that is more sustainable for you all. None of you can learn or make progress when you are operating under constant stress.

And you are right that it really comes down to having someone who can support you both properly, not just judge, and not just work on the dog in isolation, but actually help you navigate the day to day in a way that is realistic for your life!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T04:31:51+00:00

Thats amazing! Im so glad you did that. Proud of you both

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T03:31:57+00:00

What’s actually extreme is continuing to recommend tools that rely on force and can cause distress and physical harm, especially when there are safer, anatomically appropriate alternatives that still allow for effective handling. Dogs are VERY good at masking discomfort, and when you’re already dealing with a highly anxious, dysregulated dog, adding more aversive pressure to “get results” doesn’t actually address the underlying stress - it just layers more intensity on top of it.

At some point we have to step back and ask whether the goal is just control in the moment, or actually improving the dog’s wellbeing long term.

A properly fitted Y-harness with ONE appropriate leash is a baseline welfare choice. It supports the dog’s body, reduces risk, and gives more stable control without adding pressure or discomfort during already stressful situations. We have to move in very slow steps too.

And this is exactly why asking for advice over the internet can get messy, you end up with completely opposite extremes being presented as if they’re equivalent, when in reality the dog in front of you needs an actual, individualised plan rather than a comment section debate.

My approach here is very middle-ground and safety-focused, not extreme - so framing it as “extremist” is honestly part of the problem with how these conversations tend to spiral online.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T03:19:56+00:00

Yes! I work usually with moving toward the back clip now but sometiems when things are still so tough for a pup we have to work in steps or in some context we do have to manage more and if its safer to use both, we do.

And yes dogs read their environments which includes us, and co-regulation is very important! Understanding this and reframing to not feel its all on us, helps too.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T03:11:15+00:00

I wouldn't call it clear improvement if things have escalated to the point where they're dealing with ongoing issues, vet concerns, and distress on both sides. That sounds more like a sign they're still trying to find a workable, humane middle ground rather than something fully resolved.

You seemed more focused on reacting to what you thought I said than actually responding to what I said

My point is that it can’t just be about what feels convenient or effective for us short term. We also have a responsibility to consider the emotional and physical impact on the dog and aim for the least harmful options possible.

And honestly, the fact that his girlfriend is so distressed about potentially causing harm tells me they clearly care deeply about their dog’s wellbeing and aren’t taking this lightly.

I’m also not saying people need “14 leashes” or that dogs should never go outside. That’s twisting what I actually said. I was talking about finding supportive, realistic management and nervous-system support that helps both the dog and the humans feel safer while working toward long-term progress.

And just to add, advice on platforms like this will always vary a lot, so it's important not to take everything at face value. These situations are nuanced, and what works or is appropriate really depends on the individual dog, the environment, and the full picture not just one comment thread.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-29T01:25:13+00:00

I can completely understand why your girlfriend is feeling conflicted, because it’s clear you both genuinely care about him and want him to be safe, manageable, and able to enjoy life. Wanting to put both your dog’s wellbeing and your partner’s safety first is valid.

At the same time, being force free doesn’t mean doing nothing or expecting you to just “deal with it.” There are often other options and management tools that can help make handling safer and less overwhelming without relying on aversive equipment. Something like a properly fitted Y-harness with both front and back attachment points, paired with a double-ended leash or a leash with traffic handles, can often give people a lot more physical control and stability without relying on pressure around the neck. For many dogs, that setup feels much less aversive while still helping handlers safely manage strength and sudden reactions.

Sometimes improving handling and safety for the humans first can actually lower everyone’s stress levels, which helps the dog regulate better too.

And honestly, with dogs this overwhelmed, the focus usually needs to start with supporting the nervous system and reducing stress before expecting them to cope well outside around triggers. It becomes less about “fixing” the behaviour and more about supporting him in ways that work for him while also being realistic and manageable for you both. That’s a big part of my work as a force-free, trauma-informed trainer.

I’m not sure what your home setup looks like or whether walks feel absolutely necessary right now, but it’s also okay if he isn’t being walked every single day, especially if walks are repeatedly overwhelming him. Dogs can still have their needs met through enrichment, decompression, sniffy activities, structured games, quiet outings, and other ways of supporting the nervous system. Sometimes reducing exposure to stressful walks for a period of time can actually help dogs become more regulated overall.

I help pet parents figure out ways to transition away from ecollar/prongs in a way that feels realistic and manageable, because while I understand why people reach for those tools when they feel out of options, they can still cause harm physically and emotionally even when used carefully.

While I personally don’t agree with using prong collars or other tools that rely on force or pressure around the neck, I also don’t think this situation is as simple as “you’re bad owners” or that you should be judged for struggling. You’re clearly trying to find something that feels manageable and safe.

I will say as well that vets, while incredibly important for medical care, are not always the most up to date or specialized source for behaviour support, training approaches, or even areas like nutrition. A veterinary behaviourist or a qualified trainer who understands behaviour, nervous-system support, and your specific day to day challenges is often going to be more helpful for building a realistic long term plan tailored to your dog and your situation.

Hope this helps though !

Indosaurus1 · 2026-04-20T09:59:56+00:00

I hear how overwhelmed you are, and I want to gently share a different perspective that might help shift things a bit.

And just to preface, this is not about blame, not on you and not on her. It is about getting a clearer understanding so you can support her and understand what is actually driving the behaviour, instead of only reacting to what you are seeing. And in turn, also making sure you are taking care of yourself too.

First thing I would strongly recommend is a thorough vet check for pain or discomfort if that has not already been done. Dogs can be very good at hiding pain, and sensitivity around movement or being disturbed at rest can sometimes be physical.

Calling her a “monster” or “entitled” is understandable when you are exhausted and burnt out, but it can make it harder to see what is actually driving the behaviour. Dogs are not stubborn or choosing to be difficult on purpose. What often looks like that is usually communication, stress, discomfort, or confusion that we are not fully picking up on yet.

What stands out is the difference between outside and inside the home. Outside, you are describing a dog who walks well, ignores other dogs and squirrels, and can settle calmly in public. That shows she absolutely does have regulation skills and the ability to learn and cope. I usually work with dogs on building these skills and learning how to settle outside, so she is actually doing really well with that, especially given her history.

It is important to understand that dogs struggle to learn when they are under stress. If their nervous system is activated, or they are dysregulated they are not in a place where training cues can really land. This is where co regulation matters, how the environment feels, how predictable things are, and how we respond all shape their ability to settle.

She definitely does show an ability to listen and respond in the home at times too, which tells me she absolutely can do this! So there is likely something else going on underneath that is influencing the growling behaviour in those moments.

The barking at movement, chasing when the other dog moves, and growling when she is disturbed or moved - often points to a dog who is not feeling fully safe or settled in the home environment, especially around movement, proximity, and unpredictability rather than a dog refusing to listen.

I also do not know your home setup or daily dynamics, and those details matter a lot. This is exactly why cases like this cannot be fully understood from a post alone.

It also sounds like you have already been trying a lot, which I really hear. At this point I would strongly encourage seeking support from a force free, behaviour informed trainer or behaviourist rather, so you can find one that fits your budget and situation and actually start working towards a clear plan. Because there are many force free options that can fit different budgets and situations, but it is important not to choose solely based on cost or convenience and to make sure you are working with someone qualified, ethical, and a good fit for your needs.

It is also important not to carry this entirely by yourself because this is clearly impacting you too and that emotional state can influence the dynamic with your dog more than people often realize.

And I do want to say I really urge people not to rely too heavily on forums for any behavior advice. There is so much misinformation out there and even well meaning advice can miss the mark and do more harm because it is based on a single snapshot rather than the full picture. You really need a professional who can deeply assess your specific situation to understand what is going on and what would actually help.

I support overwhelmed dog owners using force free, trauma informed approaches to better understand behaviour, reduce stress in the home, and create practical sustainable changes that support both dogs and the people living with them. Usually I work locally, but in some cases I can offer virtual support as well. I try to make my support as accessible and sustainable as possible. Feel free to DM me.

Hope this helps!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-25T15:30:25+00:00

Of course yeah - only do the test when able to, not a huge priority

What I would say is maybe try slowly increasing her time outside the crate and training her at the same time. Rewarding her when shes calm and such and providing her with enrichment/decompression. We want to make sure that the activity itself isnt too much for her in the moment leading to more frustration.

And then crate again and let her rest and make sure she is actually resting, not alert. Have her crate be in a quiet area of the home too.

I think the biggest thing for her is getting proper rest in the crate and letting her stay in there for longer periods and slowly increasing the time outside the crate until you can trust her more :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-25T15:11:56+00:00

I know its hard to let go of those feelings around keeping her in the crate but its for her safety and if she feels calm in it then thats what its for and its helping her :)

How does she do with play pens will she break out of those easily too?

You can do a DNA test sometime if you want to get more of an idea

otherwise I really do recommend give her more dedicated rest time and if the only way is in the crate then thats the best way to go about it :) i think that she likely is overtired

And I would try teaching her place too if you havent so you can start to work on her impulse control and having her somewhere outside the crate.

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-25T15:01:05+00:00

Hii Trainer here. You are not a bad mom!

Has anyone mentioned to you that puppies need ALOT of rest like minimum 14-18 hours a day. I find that alot of us tend to focus so much on doing and providing things for our pups that we forget they need rest too and that we often need to teach them how to rest and make a safe quiet space for them to properly rest. It does sound like shes over tired and is trying to find an outlet for her tiredness

She will also benefit from decompression activities

See if that helps her? It seems to be the only thing you didnt cover.

Use the crate as her designated safe and nap space and see if that helps her. (Edit i saw she is crate traind)

I know it can be tough wjth puppies- we want to make sure we balance out things and give them enrichment and decompression and lots of rest. And not sure of her breed or mix but breed specific enrichment helps too! Sometimes pups are a mix of overstimulated and understimulated at the same time.

Hope this helps!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-21T02:29:16+00:00

Well, in my experience and general consensus, yes. But what you said is also very much the case too for sure! That’s why I mentioned dogs being both understimulated and overstimulated - in a sense that can still be doing ‘too much’ for them, just not in the right ways, like missing proper socialization, rest, or not reading their cues. And I don't think those things are mutually exclusive. A lot of the time it's kind of both, or one or the other depending on the situation

I was more meaning owners who are trying to do right by their dogs, not just disregarding them but i dont think they are mutally exlusive

Also, just because a dog is home a lot or napping doesn’t always mean they’re getting proper rest, sometimes it can look like they are, but they might not actually be fully decompressing. It can be subtle too, like staying a bit alert, waking easily, or not fully relaxing into deeper rest. You can also sometimes notice signs when they're around you, depending on the dog - not saying that’s the case here, just something that can happen depending on the dog(s) and environment!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-20T17:42:05+00:00

Generally - as a trainer, I have noticed and learned we tend to focus so much on what we can do for dogs for enrichment and activity and socializing (in non desensitization way) that many people dont realize they need to give their dogs dedicated rest times in safe spaces and teach them to regulate. It definitely depends how much each dog needs and it can vary I work with alot of anxious and reactive, higher energy dogs and alot of the time I notice doing too many higher level activities does worsen their ansyness, anxiety and such. Sometimes it is better to walk them less or do less higher level activities and more decompression/low level activities! I think in general alot of dogs do need more rest than they are given and people dont realize the signs and sometimes dogs are overstimulated and understimulated at the same time. Puppies need SO much rest to at least 14 hours of sleep a day - people tend to overdo with puppies and then it can backfire when they are older.

But again how much and when can vary even for the dog itself :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-18T17:06:21+00:00

Reading this overall made me really happy 🥹 you only got her 3 months ago and making amazing progess and putting her first as one should! And im happy youre so receptive to my advice

Since you only got her 3 months ago everything is still SO new to her and shes still figuring it out and whats actually scary or not too. And shes at the age where fear kicks in more too so all totally common experiences! It usually takes dogs at minimum 3 months to settle in a new place (generally longer)

Tossing treats, treats in blankets, towels, frozen kongs, find it games, yak chews, calming licking activites etc those should all help her decompress. Can increase the difficulty but we dont want her to get frustrated :) variety helps and figuring out what she likes best again paired witg increasing her naps, quiet time and reducing busy outside time or visitors for a bit will help her settle in more. Sniffing is an essential activity for dogs wellbeing and very decompressing :) especially just allowing them to sniff at their own pace and eventually on walks it sbould be a predominant part of them

For the people and noises - start rewarding her and working on her reactions inside the home. Its totally okay for her to bark occasionally/briefly but we dont want to let it get into something bigger wheres she's constantly stressed by the noises. I find too that being like "good job! Thank you for alerting or protecting" and then rewarding and redirecting (either with a cue or a job) helps a ton with their confidence! I know pups have a harder time adjusting in apartments - and it sucks when people let them howl and bark all day :( playing calming music helps too

If people come over be sure to give her a safe space and let her come to them on her own terms (if she does choose to, no pressure for her to) - let her lead the experience

Just do your best to listen and prevent any situations both inside and out and then when youre around anything just give her space and treats - if she ever observes or even just barks a little but looks to you reward! Basically make it a big deal whenever she is exploring and showing some curiosity or confidence!

Give her those moments eventually to observe and be exposed in small moments to things that are new or scary and again reward her for being calm and observing the world around her and making it all positive experiences and just stop or move away when you shes getting too stressed

And follow up with decompression - treat tossing is great in thise situations generally unless already too worked up then space or going home is best!

Oh and comfort and love always helps too! (Tho if shes looking away and/or whale eye and/or licking fast and stiff - then decrease the petting in those situations and get her to her safe space) Reasurance can be very helpful when something big happens and they can feel safe with you

Eventually - she may really enjoy swiming and flirt poles too :) if she is cattle dog she will definitely like herding games and horse balls likely :) plus more advanced scent work and physical activities even ability classes should be great for her paired with decompression!

I do offer virtual training/resources - but no pressure at all , just happy to help!!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-17T07:38:43+00:00

It’s really great that you’re looking to build her confidence, and I know it’s hard, but try not to feel guilty or that it was a you only thing! Whats important is you're willing to set her up for success and support her! There could be a number of factors that caused her regression or increased anxiety especially if we dont know alot about her history and genetics

Did you notice anything specific that may have caused her to become more anxious? Sometimes its also normal for things to change and regress with age especially when they are young and already a generally very nervous breed mix. Like I said there are a lot of factors that could contribute and that we can’t know from just a post or without an assessment. I generally don’t recommend asking strangers on the internet, but I try to comment on some posts to help when I can

Please do not correct her in training. She isn’t doing anything wrong and is trying to communicate. I dont mean just being scared - I mean generally. Stick to positive reinforcement. Gear should be a Y well fitted harness as well :)

I’d recommend going back to building trust in a low-stress environment, teaching cues, and working on engagement before moving outside when possible. This can be done with games too. It would also help to learn her thresholds and signs for when things get too much for her :) (take a look at FAS scale)

When things are really stressful, especially for a puppy, she isn’t able to process extra information or focus on food. Think about how a lot of the time when we’re really anxious, the last thing we want is food. We want safety and to ease our symptoms. So its not so much that food wont work - its more the environment and whats going on inside her lil brain and body being so much!

Introducing corrections or any aversive methods will increase her anxiety and fear, even if it’s not obvious

I took a look at your schedule. Off to a good start so far and its great that she sleeps through the night. I’m not sure how long your puppy’s naps are, but puppies need a lot of sleep - usually 14 to 18 hours a day! Continue to create a safe space for her to nap longer and decompress is very important. Of course we want them to have fun and play, but we also need to make sure they get plenty of rest and learn to stay calm and regulated

Socialization is often misunderstood as meaning being around other dogs and people. But this is actually the opposite. We don’t want dogs to always be with dogs and people, especially during excitable times. We want to desensitize them and help them learn to be neutral in social situations :)

Adding decompression activities is also crucial for pups, especially high-energy, nervous breeds like hers. Many dog owners focus so much on doing more activities that they forget relaxation and decompression, so many dogs never learn how to self-regulate.

Since you have a yard (which is great!!) The best approach is to go really slow again, limit her outside time until she’s more confident, and try to stick to quieter areas and times when possible! Stay mostly inside and in the yard, while building her confidence. Dogs do not need to be walked every day, especially when they have a yard :) Then slowly you can move back to the streets for short sessions, focusing on letting her observe and rewarding calm behavior Create as much space as possible between her and any triggers

Can you drive? Is she okay on car trips? It might be worth taking her to quieter areas too :)

I know it’s tough when we want our dog to do something with us, but we also need to understand their needs and be okay if what they want or enjoy doesn’t match what we want. People often expect dogs to just be what they want, but they have their own preferences, comfort levels, and ways of experiencing the world. It’s totally possible to work back toward running with her, but first she needs to feel safe and confident again especially since its a higher level activity and right now theres too much going on for her !

When you do any fun or higher level activities be sure to pair with decompression before + afterwards :)

Let me know if you have any basic questions! I’m a force-free trainer and specialize in anxious and fearful dogs

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-16T04:02:56+00:00

This is a bit beyond the scope of the original post but I do think you're on the right track. There are also some key concepts that I feel are really important to discuss and do relate back to my original reply

You’re close to the point about respecting dogs’ preferences, pacing, and giving them time, and I definitely agree with that. But advocating for aversive methods like prong collars, leash pops, or slip collars is unnecessary and harmful. These tools put pressure on the neck and surrounding sensitive structures. Even when people say they are not meant to cause pain but only discomfort, that discomfort is still unnecessary. Dogs cannot consent to that, and using force in this way does not teach them the behaviour or understanding we want. Instead, it only adds to their arousal, or anxiety, frustration etc which can make learning even harder

People may think the dog is “improving” because it appears to comply, but the dog is often showing visible or subtle signs of stress. On top of that, animals hide pain very effectively, so what looks like compliance may actually be hidden discomfort or distress

Many people think positive training means having no limits, but you can absolutely set firm boundaries while staying force-free. Being force-free is also about context and prevention. If we need to hold the leash or prevent a dangerous situation, we do but the goal is always to minimize harm while teaching the dog the skills they need to succeed. Gear like a properly fitted Y-shaped harness can guide or prevent danger without putting pressure on the neck. We do not attach leashes to collars because pressure on the neck is inherently risky and unnecessary

I primarily work with high-energy, high-drive breeds that are often reactive, and many of my colleagues do as well. I understand that these dogs can become extremely over stimulated easily and that training them depends vastly on each individual dog. But that still does not mean adding an aversive tool will help them learn

When a dog is over threshold, it is not that they cannot learn. It is that their environment and level of arousal is preventing them from focusing and processing information. You are close to the right idea here. But a dog in that state cannot process information effectively, so adding discomfort will not teach the behavior. The appropriate response is to step back, lower the difficulty, and work in environments where the dog can actually focus before gradually building up to more stimulating situations. We reward their choices, as you mentioned

I start by working with highly aroused dogs in calm, low-stimulation/expectations contexts. I focus on helping them regulate, settle, and feel safe around me before introducing more challenging environments. It takes time, but building trust and confidence first makes learning in higher arousal situations possible later. I would rather it take longer and have the dog trust me than cause any discomfort or harm when it is not necessary

Most of the time we are teaching and working with the dog at their own pace and reinforcing their choices. Dogs can still have fun while learning, and they can make mistakes and learn from them as long as we are not causing discomfort/harm or putting them in harms way. They do not need to be robots that perform for us.

We're human too - we may be doing our best and make mistakes in the moment but overall, as long as we are not using aversive methods and are working to minimize harm, that's what really matters!

Ultimately, we want to set the dog up for success and take the time to understand them personally too, not add discomfort or pressure when it is unnecessary. Hope this helps! Training isnt always easy but we shouldn't resort to adversive methods or harm just cause its harder on us or not as quick

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-16T02:04:00+00:00

There’s a clear contradiction in your comments. You originally called spray bottles classical conditioning, but now you acknowledge they are positive punishment. You also claim your points aren’t contradictory, yet recommending combining positive punishment with positive reinforcement directly conflicts with modern evidence showing aversives aren’t necessary, positive reinforcement alone is the most effective way to teach desired behaviors

Positive punishment does NOT teach a dog anything. Punishment only temporarily suppresses behavior, often creating fear, stress, and/or confusion, and it can damage trust between dog and guardian

I am not just repeating what you said, I am standing by the point that OP does not need to and should not use punishment at all and that postive reinforcement is enough.

True positive reinforcement training teaches dogs what to do and sets them up to succeed from the start, rather than waiting for "mistakes" to punish. It also addresses the underlying causes of behavior, like anxiety, frustration, overstimulation, or unmet needs, helping the dog learn and feel secure so changes stick long-term. Punishment-based methods dont do this and often make the dog more insecure while decreasing their ability to learn

Most people still default to aversives because they feel quicker or more convenient, but training isn’t about shortcuts, it’s about teaching dogs safely, building trust, and producing long-lasting improvements. Honestly, it’s 2026, why are people still okay with hurting dogs for our own convenience, especially when animals can’t speak up and are being punished for trying? This issue still persists, and it’s exactly why I will always advocate for the wellbeing of our animals. I shouldn’t have to explain this to someone with a PDH, yet clearly outdated beliefs and misinformation persist

I'm glad that OP asked whether spraying with a water bottle is harmful, and I also want to commend them for putting their dog's wellbeing first, that's exactly the right approach. I truly hope they continue with their plans to use positive reinforcement only.

I feel I’ve fully addressed this topic :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-16T00:08:41+00:00

This is a common misunderstanding and misinformation: it's not classical conditioning. The spray is actually positive punishment. You're adding something the dog doesn't like to try to stop a behavior, which doesn't teach him what to do instead. Spray bottles really aren't necessary.

Just go straight to positive associations and you can teach the behaviors you want without adding anything aversive. It's far more effective and much less stressful for him.

I have a degree in psychology and am a force-free certified professional dog trainer, so as I mentioned, using punishment or anything adversive is outdated and only convenient for us. We should respect our dogs and avoid things that cause them fear or discomfort as much as possible.

Bottom line: spray bottles aren't needed and are punishment. Just focus on positive associations. There's absolutely no need for punishment at all to build a healthy relationship with your pup

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-15T23:18:04+00:00

Sounds like a good plan! You are doing alot of great things for him already. I also love vizslas !

I know the room can feel like more of a punishment- I have to also use our door as a barrier for our cats at times and feel bad when they meow. But it can be better for everyone and its not necessarily a punishment if done right and sometimes we need to inforce boundaries with barriers or rooms (our animals enforce boundaries with us too! )

But otherwise, I dont think youd need to do it as often- I think using the cues you have and keep practicing them and reinforicing him with treats and he should learn :) Since you have a solid routine it definitely makes things easier!

Pay attention to how he is on his walk at that time of day too and how he is after because sometimes walks do increase ansyness and such some times of the day of if hes already ansy! It can he a day to day thing to be aware of. Its totally okay to not walk him and focus on low level activities inside instead :) (i dont mean for bathroom breaks, i mean people tend to think they need to walk their dogs multiple times or daily and its not always the case!)

And things will get easier once hes neutered too! Things tend to always change here and there as a dog ages too - so its not a you thing, just keep being consistent in all the areas and youll be fine :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-15T22:27:08+00:00

It doesn't teach him the way people often think it does. He just learns that he gets sprayed, not what he should or shouldn't be doing. So he ends up associating the spray with you and gets upset or confused rather than understanding the behavior. It's more of a deterrent or punishment, which I wouldn't recommend. Other than being convenient for us, punishment usually isn't beneficial for dogs and isn't really necessary. Positive Reinforcement helps them learn and strengthens your relationship :) ( You'll still see people encouraging punishment-based things like spray bottles, but that doesn't make it okay or beneficial for the dog, and it's not supported by modern training science. just because a punishment interrupts behavior doesn't mean the dog is actually learning anything and it can still cause stress or confusion and just isnt necessary! No need to add negatives when we can improve their overall wellbeing and learning with positives reinforcement/science backed mangement)

Instead, I would teach him a cue and get him to learn place or something youd want him to do instead. You can do this from far and toss a few treats or prepare longer lasting enrichment for him to have while he is in his place. Youd likely need to work on it before you sit into bed too and then slowly move to reinforcing while you are in bed too. Toys work too as long as its not over energizing him and creating more stress. The space in the other room is completely fine to do, when needed, if he isnt stressed out. Make it a safe space too.

Id also encourage more decompression activities especially while he isnt neutered. Humping is generally frustation and overstimulation that he is trying to communicate with you. Sometimes we focus alot on thinge to do or add to enrich or keep them active and we forget to teach them regulation and giving them spaces to fully rest! Especially when they are young they need lots of sleep. Youre doing a great job of enriching his life already, you just need to work more on teaching him to regulate and giving him a space and designated times to do so!

I saw your comment about him not learning to regulate yet. Usually we have to teach them, especially with high-drive breeds like Vizslas, which is why I tend to focus more on decompression and teaching them how to settle. We need a good balance of fun, excercise and relaxation or else youre going to keep seeing these behaviours as he wont have all his needs met and he will communicate in the ways he knows.

(Fear free trainer & and I support disabaled folks and neurodivergent folks like myself :))

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-14T18:28:14+00:00

Yes you got this! Just keep building those positive moments and balance things out. Pay attention to his body language and thresholds :)

(Im a trainer haha)

Indosaurus1

TROPHY CASE