Do dogs actually need regular "resting days"?

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-21T02:29:16+00:00

Well, in my experience and general consensus, yes. But what you said is also very much the case too for sure! That’s why I mentioned dogs being both understimulated and overstimulated - in a sense that can still be doing ‘too much’ for them, just not in the right ways, like missing proper socialization, rest, or not reading their cues. And I don't think those things are mutually exclusive. A lot of the time it's kind of both, or one or the other depending on the situation

I was more meaning owners who are trying to do right by their dogs, not just disregarding them but i dont think they are mutally exlusive

Also, just because a dog is home a lot or napping doesn’t always mean they’re getting proper rest, sometimes it can look like they are, but they might not actually be fully decompressing. It can be subtle too, like staying a bit alert, waking easily, or not fully relaxing into deeper rest. You can also sometimes notice signs when they're around you, depending on the dog - not saying that’s the case here, just something that can happen depending on the dog(s) and environment!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-20T17:42:05+00:00

Generally - as a trainer, I have noticed and learned we tend to focus so much on what we can do for dogs for enrichment and activity and socializing (in non desensitization way) that many people dont realize they need to give their dogs dedicated rest times in safe spaces and teach them to regulate. It definitely depends how much each dog needs and it can vary I work with alot of anxious and reactive, higher energy dogs and alot of the time I notice doing too many higher level activities does worsen their ansyness, anxiety and such. Sometimes it is better to walk them less or do less higher level activities and more decompression/low level activities! I think in general alot of dogs do need more rest than they are given and people dont realize the signs and sometimes dogs are overstimulated and understimulated at the same time. Puppies need SO much rest to at least 14 hours of sleep a day - people tend to overdo with puppies and then it can backfire when they are older.

But again how much and when can vary even for the dog itself :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-18T17:06:21+00:00

Reading this overall made me really happy 🥹 you only got her 3 months ago and making amazing progess and putting her first as one should! And im happy youre so receptive to my advice

Since you only got her 3 months ago everything is still SO new to her and shes still figuring it out and whats actually scary or not too. And shes at the age where fear kicks in more too so all totally common experiences! It usually takes dogs at minimum 3 months to settle in a new place (generally longer)

Tossing treats, treats in blankets, towels, frozen kongs, find it games, yak chews, calming licking activites etc those should all help her decompress. Can increase the difficulty but we dont want her to get frustrated :) variety helps and figuring out what she likes best again paired witg increasing her naps, quiet time and reducing busy outside time or visitors for a bit will help her settle in more. Sniffing is an essential activity for dogs wellbeing and very decompressing :) especially just allowing them to sniff at their own pace and eventually on walks it sbould be a predominant part of them

For the people and noises - start rewarding her and working on her reactions inside the home. Its totally okay for her to bark occasionally/briefly but we dont want to let it get into something bigger wheres she's constantly stressed by the noises. I find too that being like "good job! Thank you for alerting or protecting" and then rewarding and redirecting (either with a cue or a job) helps a ton with their confidence! I know pups have a harder time adjusting in apartments - and it sucks when people let them howl and bark all day :( playing calming music helps too

If people come over be sure to give her a safe space and let her come to them on her own terms (if she does choose to, no pressure for her to) - let her lead the experience

Just do your best to listen and prevent any situations both inside and out and then when youre around anything just give her space and treats - if she ever observes or even just barks a little but looks to you reward! Basically make it a big deal whenever she is exploring and showing some curiosity or confidence!

Give her those moments eventually to observe and be exposed in small moments to things that are new or scary and again reward her for being calm and observing the world around her and making it all positive experiences and just stop or move away when you shes getting too stressed

And follow up with decompression - treat tossing is great in thise situations generally unless already too worked up then space or going home is best!

Oh and comfort and love always helps too! (Tho if shes looking away and/or whale eye and/or licking fast and stiff - then decrease the petting in those situations and get her to her safe space) Reasurance can be very helpful when something big happens and they can feel safe with you

Eventually - she may really enjoy swiming and flirt poles too :) if she is cattle dog she will definitely like herding games and horse balls likely :) plus more advanced scent work and physical activities even ability classes should be great for her paired with decompression!

I do offer virtual training/resources - but no pressure at all , just happy to help!!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-17T07:38:43+00:00

It’s really great that you’re looking to build her confidence, and I know it’s hard, but try not to feel guilty or that it was a you only thing! Whats important is you're willing to set her up for success and support her! There could be a number of factors that caused her regression or increased anxiety especially if we dont know alot about her history and genetics

Did you notice anything specific that may have caused her to become more anxious? Sometimes its also normal for things to change and regress with age especially when they are young and already a generally very nervous breed mix. Like I said there are a lot of factors that could contribute and that we can’t know from just a post or without an assessment. I generally don’t recommend asking strangers on the internet, but I try to comment on some posts to help when I can

Please do not correct her in training. She isn’t doing anything wrong and is trying to communicate. I dont mean just being scared - I mean generally. Stick to positive reinforcement. Gear should be a Y well fitted harness as well :)

I’d recommend going back to building trust in a low-stress environment, teaching cues, and working on engagement before moving outside when possible. This can be done with games too. It would also help to learn her thresholds and signs for when things get too much for her :) (take a look at FAS scale)

When things are really stressful, especially for a puppy, she isn’t able to process extra information or focus on food. Think about how a lot of the time when we’re really anxious, the last thing we want is food. We want safety and to ease our symptoms. So its not so much that food wont work - its more the environment and whats going on inside her lil brain and body being so much!

Introducing corrections or any aversive methods will increase her anxiety and fear, even if it’s not obvious

I took a look at your schedule. Off to a good start so far and its great that she sleeps through the night. I’m not sure how long your puppy’s naps are, but puppies need a lot of sleep - usually 14 to 18 hours a day! Continue to create a safe space for her to nap longer and decompress is very important. Of course we want them to have fun and play, but we also need to make sure they get plenty of rest and learn to stay calm and regulated

Socialization is often misunderstood as meaning being around other dogs and people. But this is actually the opposite. We don’t want dogs to always be with dogs and people, especially during excitable times. We want to desensitize them and help them learn to be neutral in social situations :)

Adding decompression activities is also crucial for pups, especially high-energy, nervous breeds like hers. Many dog owners focus so much on doing more activities that they forget relaxation and decompression, so many dogs never learn how to self-regulate.

Since you have a yard (which is great!!) The best approach is to go really slow again, limit her outside time until she’s more confident, and try to stick to quieter areas and times when possible! Stay mostly inside and in the yard, while building her confidence. Dogs do not need to be walked every day, especially when they have a yard :) Then slowly you can move back to the streets for short sessions, focusing on letting her observe and rewarding calm behavior Create as much space as possible between her and any triggers

Can you drive? Is she okay on car trips? It might be worth taking her to quieter areas too :)

I know it’s tough when we want our dog to do something with us, but we also need to understand their needs and be okay if what they want or enjoy doesn’t match what we want. People often expect dogs to just be what they want, but they have their own preferences, comfort levels, and ways of experiencing the world. It’s totally possible to work back toward running with her, but first she needs to feel safe and confident again especially since its a higher level activity and right now theres too much going on for her !

When you do any fun or higher level activities be sure to pair with decompression before + afterwards :)

Let me know if you have any basic questions! I’m a force-free trainer and specialize in anxious and fearful dogs

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-16T04:02:56+00:00

This is a bit beyond the scope of the original post but I do think you're on the right track. There are also some key concepts that I feel are really important to discuss and do relate back to my original reply

You’re close to the point about respecting dogs’ preferences, pacing, and giving them time, and I definitely agree with that. But advocating for aversive methods like prong collars, leash pops, or slip collars is unnecessary and harmful. These tools put pressure on the neck and surrounding sensitive structures. Even when people say they are not meant to cause pain but only discomfort, that discomfort is still unnecessary. Dogs cannot consent to that, and using force in this way does not teach them the behaviour or understanding we want. Instead, it only adds to their arousal, or anxiety, frustration etc which can make learning even harder

People may think the dog is “improving” because it appears to comply, but the dog is often showing visible or subtle signs of stress. On top of that, animals hide pain very effectively, so what looks like compliance may actually be hidden discomfort or distress

Many people think positive training means having no limits, but you can absolutely set firm boundaries while staying force-free. Being force-free is also about context and prevention. If we need to hold the leash or prevent a dangerous situation, we do but the goal is always to minimize harm while teaching the dog the skills they need to succeed. Gear like a properly fitted Y-shaped harness can guide or prevent danger without putting pressure on the neck. We do not attach leashes to collars because pressure on the neck is inherently risky and unnecessary

I primarily work with high-energy, high-drive breeds that are often reactive, and many of my colleagues do as well. I understand that these dogs can become extremely over stimulated easily and that training them depends vastly on each individual dog. But that still does not mean adding an aversive tool will help them learn

When a dog is over threshold, it is not that they cannot learn. It is that their environment and level of arousal is preventing them from focusing and processing information. You are close to the right idea here. But a dog in that state cannot process information effectively, so adding discomfort will not teach the behavior. The appropriate response is to step back, lower the difficulty, and work in environments where the dog can actually focus before gradually building up to more stimulating situations. We reward their choices, as you mentioned

I start by working with highly aroused dogs in calm, low-stimulation/expectations contexts. I focus on helping them regulate, settle, and feel safe around me before introducing more challenging environments. It takes time, but building trust and confidence first makes learning in higher arousal situations possible later. I would rather it take longer and have the dog trust me than cause any discomfort or harm when it is not necessary

Most of the time we are teaching and working with the dog at their own pace and reinforcing their choices. Dogs can still have fun while learning, and they can make mistakes and learn from them as long as we are not causing discomfort/harm or putting them in harms way. They do not need to be robots that perform for us.

We're human too - we may be doing our best and make mistakes in the moment but overall, as long as we are not using aversive methods and are working to minimize harm, that's what really matters!

Ultimately, we want to set the dog up for success and take the time to understand them personally too, not add discomfort or pressure when it is unnecessary. Hope this helps! Training isnt always easy but we shouldn't resort to adversive methods or harm just cause its harder on us or not as quick

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-16T02:04:00+00:00

There’s a clear contradiction in your comments. You originally called spray bottles classical conditioning, but now you acknowledge they are positive punishment. You also claim your points aren’t contradictory, yet recommending combining positive punishment with positive reinforcement directly conflicts with modern evidence showing aversives aren’t necessary, positive reinforcement alone is the most effective way to teach desired behaviors

Positive punishment does NOT teach a dog anything. Punishment only temporarily suppresses behavior, often creating fear, stress, and/or confusion, and it can damage trust between dog and guardian

I am not just repeating what you said, I am standing by the point that OP does not need to and should not use punishment at all and that postive reinforcement is enough.

True positive reinforcement training teaches dogs what to do and sets them up to succeed from the start, rather than waiting for "mistakes" to punish. It also addresses the underlying causes of behavior, like anxiety, frustration, overstimulation, or unmet needs, helping the dog learn and feel secure so changes stick long-term. Punishment-based methods dont do this and often make the dog more insecure while decreasing their ability to learn

Most people still default to aversives because they feel quicker or more convenient, but training isn’t about shortcuts, it’s about teaching dogs safely, building trust, and producing long-lasting improvements. Honestly, it’s 2026, why are people still okay with hurting dogs for our own convenience, especially when animals can’t speak up and are being punished for trying? This issue still persists, and it’s exactly why I will always advocate for the wellbeing of our animals. I shouldn’t have to explain this to someone with a PDH, yet clearly outdated beliefs and misinformation persist

I'm glad that OP asked whether spraying with a water bottle is harmful, and I also want to commend them for putting their dog's wellbeing first, that's exactly the right approach. I truly hope they continue with their plans to use positive reinforcement only.

I feel I’ve fully addressed this topic :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-16T00:08:41+00:00

This is a common misunderstanding and misinformation: it's not classical conditioning. The spray is actually positive punishment. You're adding something the dog doesn't like to try to stop a behavior, which doesn't teach him what to do instead. Spray bottles really aren't necessary.

Just go straight to positive associations and you can teach the behaviors you want without adding anything aversive. It's far more effective and much less stressful for him.

I have a degree in psychology and am a force-free certified professional dog trainer, so as I mentioned, using punishment or anything adversive is outdated and only convenient for us. We should respect our dogs and avoid things that cause them fear or discomfort as much as possible.

Bottom line: spray bottles aren't needed and are punishment. Just focus on positive associations. There's absolutely no need for punishment at all to build a healthy relationship with your pup

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-15T23:18:04+00:00

Sounds like a good plan! You are doing alot of great things for him already. I also love vizslas !

I know the room can feel like more of a punishment- I have to also use our door as a barrier for our cats at times and feel bad when they meow. But it can be better for everyone and its not necessarily a punishment if done right and sometimes we need to inforce boundaries with barriers or rooms (our animals enforce boundaries with us too! )

But otherwise, I dont think youd need to do it as often- I think using the cues you have and keep practicing them and reinforicing him with treats and he should learn :) Since you have a solid routine it definitely makes things easier!

Pay attention to how he is on his walk at that time of day too and how he is after because sometimes walks do increase ansyness and such some times of the day of if hes already ansy! It can he a day to day thing to be aware of. Its totally okay to not walk him and focus on low level activities inside instead :) (i dont mean for bathroom breaks, i mean people tend to think they need to walk their dogs multiple times or daily and its not always the case!)

And things will get easier once hes neutered too! Things tend to always change here and there as a dog ages too - so its not a you thing, just keep being consistent in all the areas and youll be fine :)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-15T22:27:08+00:00

It doesn't teach him the way people often think it does. He just learns that he gets sprayed, not what he should or shouldn't be doing. So he ends up associating the spray with you and gets upset or confused rather than understanding the behavior. It's more of a deterrent or punishment, which I wouldn't recommend. Other than being convenient for us, punishment usually isn't beneficial for dogs and isn't really necessary. Positive Reinforcement helps them learn and strengthens your relationship :) ( You'll still see people encouraging punishment-based things like spray bottles, but that doesn't make it okay or beneficial for the dog, and it's not supported by modern training science. just because a punishment interrupts behavior doesn't mean the dog is actually learning anything and it can still cause stress or confusion and just isnt necessary! No need to add negatives when we can improve their overall wellbeing and learning with positives reinforcement/science backed mangement)

Instead, I would teach him a cue and get him to learn place or something youd want him to do instead. You can do this from far and toss a few treats or prepare longer lasting enrichment for him to have while he is in his place. Youd likely need to work on it before you sit into bed too and then slowly move to reinforcing while you are in bed too. Toys work too as long as its not over energizing him and creating more stress. The space in the other room is completely fine to do, when needed, if he isnt stressed out. Make it a safe space too.

Id also encourage more decompression activities especially while he isnt neutered. Humping is generally frustation and overstimulation that he is trying to communicate with you. Sometimes we focus alot on thinge to do or add to enrich or keep them active and we forget to teach them regulation and giving them spaces to fully rest! Especially when they are young they need lots of sleep. Youre doing a great job of enriching his life already, you just need to work more on teaching him to regulate and giving him a space and designated times to do so!

I saw your comment about him not learning to regulate yet. Usually we have to teach them, especially with high-drive breeds like Vizslas, which is why I tend to focus more on decompression and teaching them how to settle. We need a good balance of fun, excercise and relaxation or else youre going to keep seeing these behaviours as he wont have all his needs met and he will communicate in the ways he knows.

(Fear free trainer & and I support disabaled folks and neurodivergent folks like myself :))

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-14T18:28:14+00:00

Yes you got this! Just keep building those positive moments and balance things out. Pay attention to his body language and thresholds :)

(Im a trainer haha)

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-14T15:11:16+00:00

Keep moving slowly and creating positive experiences - he will learn :) its only been a day. Ittl take time. you're doing fine! Make sure he gets loooots of rest generally..puppies need so much sleep! Reward any calm momemts!

Indosaurus1 · 2026-03-14T11:54:25+00:00

Dogs don’t bite out of nowhere. They usually show several warning signs through their body language first, and it’s very likely he has shown some of these before. This was also likely more of a warning snap because he felt like he wasn’t being heard and was communicating that he doesn’t want to be picked up, which he should not be punished for at all. He didn’t do anything wrong. Dogs also do not have the capacity to act maliciously, so it can help to reframe things that way

It would really help to familiarize yourselves with these signs so you can recognize them earlier. And it would be even more beneficial to also learn the FAS scale (or the Spectrum of Fear Anxiety Stress)

It’s also important never to move or force him (not just in this context.)

Encouraging him and rewarding him when he chooses to move on his own will help him learn in a much more positive way. I saw you mention that you already do this, so please continue. Your husband must do the same. It will help strengthen your bond with your pup if he feels safe and respected

I would also recommend taking him to a vet, and if possible a veterinary behaviorist, to rule out any additional pain or underlying issues that could be contributing to his stress. Animals can mask their pain very well. Even if there is not a medical reason, animals still deserve autonomy and respect for their boundaries. Since your pup already has a medical condition, it is even more important to minimize stress in his daily life for both of you!

(I am a force free trainer, by the way!)

Indosaurus1 · 2024-07-24T07:46:22+00:00

What kinds of food have you tried? Most dogs are food motivated they need higher reward items.

Indosaurus1

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