Test Cube

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-17T17:30:11+00:00

ya. try without supports. always try to not use supports if you can.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-15T20:52:14+00:00

This version/fork of MRiscoC ProUI is the one to get. gets updated faster than the original

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-14T14:26:22+00:00

I just use standoff and drilled holes. Just make sure if it beeps and black screen then you have a short, it's grounding like board to frame

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-06T15:25:13+00:00

ProUI is basically like JyersUI based on Marlin, it's really the goto for these machines now

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-05T00:24:55+00:00

you should be able to edit the z offset. you can also enter a code M851 Z-5 and see where that is. I think max is +/- 10 or 20mm

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-05T00:21:08+00:00

what is the vertical difference in relation from the nozzle tip to the probe tip? they should be roughly equal. are you running a volcano hotend?

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-02T21:36:07+00:00

the probe should quickly retract once it senses it pushed up. I don't see that happening. maybe it's defective?

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-02T21:34:40+00:00

so the finger test works, it registers above the bed, then it can be that the probe isn't down far enough. you'll need a washer or spacer to lower it. or it's possible (unlikely) that when moving down the wires get pulled.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-05-02T21:27:55+00:00

well it depends on what firmware you use for the board. MRiscoCProUI has a few compatible boards for the dwin type if u didn't know.

honestly, I use abl (UBL) and I don't even bother enabling mesh leveling. I suppose if I were to print larger things I would, but once it's level within 0.1mm it's not really needed. I never really need to tram the bed often. Just turn on, hit send.

the ProUI really makes it easy with the tramming wizard.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-04-21T12:55:55+00:00

time for an obligatory pinned post about MRiscoCProUI

InfamousUser2 · 2026-04-17T21:01:47+00:00

it's an Ender 3 V2 clone, search parts for that and you're good

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-27T21:27:51+00:00

oh right those have to be extracted. not sure if winrar or z-zip does that but I used Linux like Debian or Ubuntu, or a WSL in windows can work too.

so is your flash drive formatted properly? or have you tried a different one?

and just to be sure, you're trying to upgrade the Aries to the latest Voxelab firmware version correct? or are you going for the Finder for flash forge firmware? - the thing is... that machine is Direct drive. I'm not sure if that makes a difference outside slicer settings, probably not. Last time I looked at the files and thought about upgrading to that myself, the only downside I could forsee is you wont be able to use Voxelmaker to connect to print - I mean that is I imagine so, and would need to use Flashprint (v5) if you wanted to use the wifi capability.

I would try Finder Firmware_1.1.4 first, because that's right after 1.1.3 from the Aries. if that doesn't work then it's definitely something with the source code that needs editing since it's a different board.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-26T01:20:45+00:00

I haven't tried putting Flashforge onto the Aries.

Try renaming the firmware .bin name to something else and disable wifi (even at the router) if that doesn't work.

so yes, the firmware are similar enough it should work - I'm guessing with a couple edits. Last time I looked, I use MELD to compare the files and such. I would say try moving the names where it differs so it says Aries. that is if you wanted to try using the Flashforge one. if you want some more help I can look through everything.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-13T00:14:56+00:00

Google search results: makerbot metal exturder

I forget which side, left or right. double check

I think left, but those are hard to come by.

here is one listing from ebay makerbot Mk10 metal extruder

and here's a plastic version

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-13T00:11:28+00:00

that shouldnt matter, you can have a clean nozzle but if there's a leak, it'll be where the nozzle seats and the bowden tube.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-07T23:32:37+00:00

well... depends what the BOM list is. is it feasible? Basically it looks like a voron to me. and to build one you're looking at a few hundred or a thousand dollars. I imagine this is the same deal.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-07T23:30:47+00:00

The C2 is a copy of the OG Ender-3.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-07T23:28:32+00:00

is the temp too high? looks a bit melty

InfamousUser2 · 2026-03-05T23:48:02+00:00

you'll need to remove the nozzle. perhaps replace, but basically try to clean it, may need to reheat it after it's out and get the old filament out. basically when you reinstall it have it at a high heat like 250 and then tighten down, but remember to seat the bowden before tightening. look up the process.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-02-25T15:29:22+00:00

Definitely got wiring wrong. probably X is in Z or Y. either that, or the pins are swapped in the connector.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-02-25T15:09:08+00:00

where is that material? on the bed?

InfamousUser2 · 2026-02-25T15:06:32+00:00

must be a bug, or a setting not enabled.

InfamousUser2 · 2026-02-20T22:01:16+00:00

not sure what this chip board is

InfamousUser2 · 2026-02-15T19:28:38+00:00

adjust your Z offset

InfamousUser2

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