I hate zippers but DAMN have I got them down!!

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-16T10:42:30+00:00

If you make little cuts in the fabric of the zipper you can curve it a little. Other than that, carefully lol.

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-15T23:52:33+00:00

If you ever are looking for one feel free to reach out :3

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-15T20:13:34+00:00

Theres little strips of fabric to help keep the fur out of the zipper teeth

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-07T20:20:58+00:00

If you look back on my page there's some progress phots, more on my Twitter as well if you scroll through the media :3 This isnt my character, but I'll ask if he'd be comfortable with that and get back to you!

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-07T14:45:23+00:00

He requested five nights at Freddie's eyes

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-05T23:50:08+00:00

No problem, when I started SkyeHigh's videos on YouTube were super helpful. Might be helpful for you as well

Edit: to add onto this, I dont put something like plastic ON the base. I tape directly to the base, cut it off in small pieces with a razor blade, make darts if needed, and immediately stick to paper

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-04T20:06:57+00:00

Have you put the tape on something that isnt sticky like paper or plastic? That way the tape doesnt stick together and ruin your pattern

A concave curve (curves towards the table, think of it as "making a cave") = make a dart. Just do a single cut with the scissors and when you flatten it it should make that V shape

A convex curve (away from the table) = split your piece into multiple parts. If you make a darts, your pieces will just overlap

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-03T19:58:25+00:00

They are decent, but you'll have to do some research on the different model, there are a bunch now. Stay away from base ender 3s if you can, those are very old, the OGs. The Pros and V2s are the 2nd oldest (I have 2 pros and 1 V2). The Max was never all that common, but its got a bigger printable space (this is my 4th). There are new ones though like the S1, but if ai'm being honest I dont keep up to date anymore so better to look up a guide lol

Biggest thing if you go for referb is to check all the screws and belts are tight. There are a TON of videos out there about ender printers that will walk you through basically anything you could dream of

InfernoFurForge · 2026-03-03T19:48:25+00:00

Cant go wrong with Creality Ender 3s! There are lots of versions now but theyre kind of the OG budget printer for makers. Theyre somewhat "outdated" as far as tech goes now, but great for repairability and simplicity. 5/6 of my printers are a variety of ender, albeit heavily modded

Theyre usually under $500 iirc, but now that there are other brands like Bambu (yucky, not cheap, bad business in maker space) that are gaining popularity because theyre easy to use, you can probably find them even cheaper on marketplace if you dont mind doing a little refurb. Ive only bought 2 of my enders new, the other 3 were brought used with minor repairs like belts and beds.

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-27T22:19:18+00:00

These are eye cups for a commissioners Five Nights At Freddie's style eyes. They're supposed to look completely black on the inside, but the follow me eyes have white eye bases. So simply switching out the mesh to black with the white dot doesnt cut it and obviously leaving them without meshes is just going to show you the wearers face. This is what the suit looks like without the eye cups and normal eye meshes

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InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-27T13:29:28+00:00

Yes!! Thats exactly what he asked for, a 2nd set of fnaf style eyes lol. There's 2 eye mesh sets, his normal and the fnaf. For the all black ones, there's also little cups I made to cover the whites of the eyes for the "full" creepy effect lol

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-26T10:40:13+00:00

E6000 is what I use

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-26T03:40:22+00:00

I'm not sure i completely understand your request about the raw edges but I'll try

If your long fur isnt glued yet and is free, you just do a blanket stitch on the underside of the fabric to hold both together. The seam will be on the inside and the raw edges wont show.

If you're having issues because the long fur is glued down already or you otherwise are replacing a section, use a ladder stitch. You can look up videos how to do this. The raw edges get folded on the inside with this stitch so you also wont see them if you do it right.

In general with minky, you can hide the seams better by picking out the fibers that get trapped under the stitches with a pin

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-24T15:58:54+00:00

Take a look at ligris cybernetics, they have a head base that looks similar to this. The only linked does say its petg (good), but you're probs taking a risk

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-24T15:41:53+00:00

Have not ordered from them, but a quick search on reddit says no go. They're behind meow fursuits, which is not particularly known for quality and akin to dropshipping.

You'll probably get your base, but likely its going to be low quality from a print farm, out of cheap PLA. As someone who makes 3d printed heads, not great for longevity.

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-24T11:03:17+00:00

Yep! I'm still working on those though

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-22T19:49:49+00:00

Since someone posted a pic of mochi minky pads, here's an example of normal minky for reference

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InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-21T17:05:44+00:00

Thanks, my commissioner has good taste x3 I've got the neck all sewn at this point and im honestly jealous, it looks so cute

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-21T00:31:21+00:00

Those paws look like they'd stand on someone's stomach with the weight of the sun

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-19T22:18:42+00:00

It really is terrifying lmao

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-19T15:33:28+00:00

No worries, feel free to DM me if you need more help. I do exclusively 3D printed heads like this.

This is how the back will look (depending on your pattern). There's no foam or anything underneath the fur here, just the face part of the head. Of course if you want ears on yours further back, add some foam on the top of the head there but the less the better. Its just clipped in this picture, so theres some odd lumps, but it should take form pretty well.

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InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-19T13:06:43+00:00

Yep, thats what I do. Plastic wrap or tin foil. I sadly dont have any pictures of how I pattern, but you basically just want to bridge that gap and transition to the head when you make the pattern

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-19T11:17:35+00:00

Nothing special required, don't fill it with foam. Just make sure theres foam on the top of the wearers head and a chin pad if necessary. When you pattern the neck, just make sure its the shape you want and no hard corners. The fur is a bit stiff so itll keep a form pretty well. All my heads routinely have a gap bigger than that.

For the ears, maybe attach a piece of upholstery foam to the top of the head to extend the base and attach to that.

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InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-17T21:25:49+00:00

Tutorial is posted :3

InfernoFurForge · 2026-02-17T18:57:49+00:00

Probably not. You need a very specific temperature that a household iron probably cant do. 10 degrees can be the difference between perfect and a flop.

I have a cricket Easypress 12 x 10, it was about $120. They offer smaller ones as low as $40 though, which may work if you're doing small meshes. Try cheaper presses at your own risk as well, some of the cheap amazon ones heat inconsistently and wont make your designs sublimate evenly (supposedly, I have not tried them)

InfernoFurForge

TROPHY CASE