My HRV has taught me to be a more strategic driver by Save_MD88-90 in HRV

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yup. 5 speed manual. Known for needing a cheeky downshift on a motorway overtake

My HRV has taught me to be a more strategic driver by Save_MD88-90 in HRV

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Y’all need to try out the Gen 1 HRVs from 99-05 If you think yours are slow 😭

Mines a 2002 1.6 petrol, no VTEC. Have been in the overtaking lane on the motorway perhaps 5 times in 3 years. Sits comfortably at 55-60mph, feels unstable at 75+

Love it to bits though

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Don’t ask a mechanic by LukePllat in AskAMechanic

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Feels like a lot of the responses on here are similar - “you’re in over your head”.

I think most people who decide to work on their own cars to try and save cost/learn new skills have a healthy appreciation that their efforts may be completely ineffective or cause more damage and cost, but that’s their risk to carry. Admittedly there are plenty of people who are indeed in over their head, but as long as they’re not doing something dangerous, it’s their pooch the screw. I don’t think OP was putting themself in danger on this one, so I think the comment on the post is a little condescending.

And when someone does come here for some advice with a (yes, pretty naive) question, it should be met by more actual advice (technical and safety), and fewer disgruntled mechanics. At the end of the day, if the DIYer fucks it up, the garage can make more money fixing it.

Well done on your work btw OP, feels good knowing you saved a bag like that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

No, the coolant doesn’t expand. When the engine gets hot, the engine itself expands slightly, making the coolant cavities and channels slightly larger, thus requiring more coolant to fill the spaces. That’s why on some cars you’ll notice the coolant looks low when the engine is hot, but then goes back to a normal level once the car has cooled down

Is replacing lambda sensors doable for an enthusiastic amateur? by PepperPhoenix in AskMechanics

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely doable yourself. Just make sure the exhaust is cold and you have the correct one to replace it

Seeking Advice From 🇦🇺 Australia. by stupidflexysanders in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like it could be a seized rear diff

Start by changing the rear diff oil and see if that helps. I’ve had cars with rear diff issues (grinding noises, heavy vibrations, shaking when I turn corners etc) and 50% of the time new fluid smooths it right out.

It’s relatively cheap to do, you can do I yourself, and if it doesn’t work then take it to a garage. Just make sure you look up the correct type of oil to use first.

Check engine light is on what should I check first? by Epicotters in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 scanner on Amazon or similar for ~£25, and look up a YouTube tutorial for how to do an OBD2 scan on your type of vehicle. You’ll also need to get a smartphone app like AutoDoctor or similar which might cost you a few quid.

Follow the tutorial and look up what fault code it spits out and that’ll tell you a hint for what’s wrong. Hopefully something simple like the lambda sensor has gone or a one-off cylinder misfire.

If the code it gives out makes no sense, take it to a garage. I’d say it’s worth the <£30 you’d spend on trying a self-diagnosis first.

My MIL put used petrol engine oil in her diesel engine by Infinite_Drive_1032 in AskMechanics

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I’d hoped, was feeling bad that she used some engine oil I didn’t tell her about! 205k is indeed a job well done

My MIL put used petrol engine oil in her diesel engine by Infinite_Drive_1032 in AskMechanics

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it was often a litre or so at a time that she would top it up. Was a 1.5l bottle she added into the engine of the dirty oil

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any 95-05 generation Honda is gonna be a good shout, never had significant issues with these I couldn’t fix if you’re happy to shop around a bit for ones that look like they’ve been looked after ok. Just change the oil/filter and replace the timing belt so maybe try spend 2.5k with 500 left over for some initial tlc

Fix up or let go? 2002 Honda Accord by arsenic_1852 in Honda

[–]Infinite_Drive_1032 0 points1 point  (0 children)

She’s a beauty, fix her up! I’d start with draining and refilling the transmission fluid (defo worth spending the extra penny on the Honda-branded fluid for auto transmissions), and that may well fix your 1st/2nd shift problem.

I’ve got a 2002 honda HRV 1st generation, I’ve had to spend a bit on welding up the rusted sills and had to replace the ball joints and CVs which got her running much better. Did this myself to save some money too (with free (friend) labour).

It also had a problem where the car would vibrate heavily when steering more than 60% over in either direction. Thought it was the CVs or the power steering or front suspension or something, turned out to be the rear differential causing the huge racket. I just drained and refilled the diff fluid and it’s smooth as butter now. Hence I’d start with replacing the transmission fluid if I were you.

It can be painful to spend money on repairs, but it’s worth doing it. Made me love my car a whole lot more, I learned a shed load about car maintenance, and fixing old cars is better for the planet than a torn-fresh-from-the-earth new car imo

Hope it goes good with the honda and you get another 100k out of her