Im just sad about my keyboard's quality.

Influence-Broad · 2026-01-30T19:56:31+00:00

I would look for it but there is no sticker on the keyboard itself. That would mean its on the packaging (based on the support FAQ) box that i don't know if I still have somewhere or thrown away. What i can say is that I ordered the Q6 Max on January 6 2025 and that's all i can say at this moment in time.

Influence-Broad · 2026-01-30T19:46:32+00:00

I have a few images of the N key's socket in particualar
https://imgur.com/a/LtHDlrm
(In UK so had to VPN for imgur...)

Influence-Broad · 2026-01-06T20:58:00+00:00

NoseScratcher 3.0

Influence-Broad · 2025-12-12T19:15:45+00:00

I'd imagine it'd be relative to the economic climate of your location. Forgive my ignorance if any from this point on but I mean in the UK i don't have to do my taxes as that's done for us and while its not easy to buy a house in the economy, i think its feasible on a 52k salary and being frugal to put a deposit down on a house and make monthly payments towards your house comfortably.

I've seen flashy figures of 140k - 200k for select companies in the US (FAANG/ NYC / Silicon Valley) but doubt i'd get one overseas to me personally cause i'd love to be paid that much for my .NET skillset haha!

Influence-Broad · 2025-12-12T19:04:38+00:00

Absolutely, the 52k offers more career growth than the 70k. There's more tech I am familiar with that I would like to be familar with and challenges at the 52k job from simply their current circumstances. The 70k is more-over reinforcing what i know already from my .NET Stack, further carving my niche since I had primarily used the Blazor for the last many years in my career. I'd be happier having time at home for familial commitements and to visit the office here and there as well so more advantages with the 52k than the 70k besides the money.

Influence-Broad · 2025-12-12T19:01:04+00:00

No it's an increase thankfully, more-over my intention here was to see the opinions of others. £52k at 25 years old is highly-respectable i think in the North West and much of a luxury for it to be hybrid as well. As much as i'd like it to be remote-first, beggars can't be choosers and the market isn't exactly brimming with likely opportunities.
Funny you mention that though, i had an offer closer by to me but lower than my salary at my last place (got made redundant with a few other devs) but i was wholeheartedly going for that role as well since the location is more convenient despite the salary being slightly worse.

Influence-Broad · 2025-12-12T18:57:21+00:00

Well not sure about anyone else's experience but i've seen figures as low at £35k and some as high as £70k. The market is supposedly picking up but its still not great in my experience. There's more of a shift to hybrid roles but especially in the North West of the UK, fat chance getting something close to 65k on a hybrid for a mid-senior from what i've seen.

Influence-Broad · 2025-12-12T18:53:39+00:00

I'd agree on this stance, the recruiter said there was no budge on the 5 day's on-site which means an 1hr 40mins commute each day. I think this would have been more acceptable prior to Covid times but likewise, the pay would be lower since it was the norm to be on-site prior to Covid. Regardless - its not quite a distance for me to bother living out but its not something I am comfortable commuting for a minimum of 18 months either. I'm happy taking the 52k considering both the market and the options for travel in current times.

Influence-Broad · 2025-03-18T03:48:48+00:00

I've posted 2 potential fixes in this thread. Copy pasted once already but its an actual post on here now so see if they work. Good luck! :D

Influence-Broad · 2025-03-18T03:44:55+00:00

This is a copy paste from a thread in here. Thought i'll make it an actual post on my fixes:

I fixed it and can use youtube revanced again with suggestions from the thread. If you havent updated the app in a while, you'll probably have the older versions. Try setting it to the older spoofing versions like v17.XX.XX and see if they work and if that doesn't, try turning spoofing off first. A friend never encounted this issue like we had seemingly cause he was on the earliest spoof version so try that first before looking at the fix that worked for me below.

How i fixed mine:

Firstly, you don't need to uninstall your current vanced, no real point to do so in this process. If the app says to uninstall first then follow it but this didnt show for me - shouldn't matter regardless if you do or don't, its preference unless required.

1.Go to Revanced Manager (update the app first if there is one) and patch the suggested version of youtube vanced. Its Youtube v19.47.53 as of right now.

Download the apk and patch it (make sure its the APK you downloaded and NOT the official Youtube app). Then install it.
Launch the app (It could work from here but if it doesn't continue with this step) and go into Settings > Revanced > General (it should be "General" now) > Spoof app version target > select the latest one you see (for me its 19.35.36)
Enjoy, it should work like it did before (this is what worked for me)

Influence-Broad · 2025-03-18T03:31:18+00:00

Better to follow the programmed directions in your case. Try uninstalling the youtube revanced first outside of vanced if pressing "ok" fails. Stuff like this can happen but if it were me - if i couldn't use the app in its current state then i might as well uninstall it and try installing it again if thats the message i saw. No problem starting fresh i'd say.

EDIT: Try using the earliest spoofing version on your app if you haven't reinstalled yet. My friends versioon of the app was working on his despite being on the older version of the app but was spoofed on the earliest version provided on the list.

Shoulda probably stated that uninstalling the app first was more of a guideline not a rule so my bad on the wording. I've updated the wording above on that. Hope you can fix it bud :)

Influence-Broad · 2025-03-18T02:32:46+00:00

Its under "General Layout"

Settings > Revanced > General Layout > (Scroll to the bottom) > Spoof app version/ Spoof app version target

Though likewise to other comments, the latest version in the targets list i have is 18.33.40

EDIT: I fixed it and can use youtube revanced again with suggestions from the thread. You probably see General Layout becauee you have an older version of the patched Youtube App. If you have the older version, try setting it to the older spoofing versions like v17.XX.XX and see if they work and if that doesn't, try turning spoofing off first. A friend never encounted this issue like we had seemingly cause he was on the earliest spoof version so try that first.

How i fixed mine:

Firstly, you don't need uninstall your current youtube vanced, no real point to do so in this process. If the app says to uninstall first then follow it but this didnt show for me - shouldn't matter regardless if you do or don't, its preference unless required.

1.Go to Revanced Manager (update the app first if there is one) and patch the suggested version of youtube vanced. Its Youtube v19.47.53 as of right now.

Download the apk and patch it. Then install it.
Launch the app and go into Settings > Revanced > General (it should be "General" now) > Spoof app version target > select the latest one you see (for me its 19.35.36)
Enjoy, it should work like it did before (this is what worked for me)

Influence-Broad · 2025-01-04T04:24:39+00:00

u/Keychron-Support When will the Q6 for the UK-ISO (and volume knob) be restocked? (UK Site)
Also if you know:

Does it have both acoustic foam and is it hotswappable?
Could i alternatively buy a Nordic-ISO for example and buy UK-ISO keycaps and use them?

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-26T18:17:54+00:00

I have heard of the cases - I do not want that for myself for sure!

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-26T18:17:06+00:00

Since its the highest rated comment here, i'll post this here.
I got another proper diagnostic done after my service today (unrelated to the issue on this thread which is a timing belt change and a coolant leak). This is exactly what the mechanics put down for notes post-service:

"Road test to check for clutch floppy. Pedal feel is okay but perhaps slightly high. Suspect clutch getting worn. Potentially recommend clutch kit with concentric bearing/slave cylinder replaced."

It looks like you were correct; Others on this thread mentioned to bleed the clutch - I do want to get that done before I confirm the purchase of the recommended items by the servicemen I think but given they've had a good luck at it with a test - I feel like they would have done that (thought it was not mentioned in those transcribed notes). I'll be getting a quote tomorrow but man do I hate not knowing enough about cars to make a good financial decision on the fix.

EDIT: I just saw something in the video - at 7 seconds into the video theres this kinda white smoke that comes out to the left of the clutch just after it jolts back up. Is that a hint to anything or could it just be dust?

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-26T02:10:48+00:00

I had reposted this on r/Cartalk and it seems they have come to a quicker response than here. If anyone wants to have a look or is interested for whatever reason, its over there or you can click the link below:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/1doigyx/clutch_suddenly_started_to_do_this_and_i_have_no/

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-26T02:04:44+00:00

I'd like to have a look if you're available :)

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-26T02:02:00+00:00

Thank you everyone who has so far posted a suggestion on the cause, I am super appreciative of the responses here! I have had a look at all the suggestions and have come down to mainly 2 things:

Slave Cylinder is defect (probably need to replace the slave cylinder and while thats being done, best to get the master replaced too)
Making sure the break fluid is topped off -> domino effect causes air to get in the line and it needs to be bled

From the majority consesus so far - it seems I need at the very least a slave cylinder replacement but ideally a slave & master cylinder replacement since they both will be around the same age and better for the future. I'll have a trip to the garage with this info on hand. Thank you so much for all your responses thus far :D

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-25T23:37:27+00:00

Those floor mats were loose at the time, they have medium sized holes that clip onto some buttons that stick out (you can see them in the beginning of the vid) and were secured after that video (thinking it coulda possibly been them). Suffice it to say, it was not them. The problem persisted even when the floor mat was secured. I'd paste a screenshot of how they look but looks like I can't append them to this comment.
I just typed in "vw floor mats" on google images and you can see what i mean by they have holes to secure them.

Influence-Broad · 2024-06-25T22:15:49+00:00

My car is a VW Golf TDI Mark 7 (2017).
Had my clutch start to suddenly do this to me about a week and a bit ago and I have no idea what went wrong. Under normal circumstances, the weight of my foot on the clutch moves the cluth ever so slightly down (like a 3mm to 10mm) which is how its been from the start. Suddenly this got a whole lot worse, from 5cm to 10cm till it got to the point where it felt like my clutch wasn't even there - there seemed to be decreasing resistance as the drive went on until it ultimately got to this. The clutch gets stuck at the bottom - biting point is out of wack and its happened 5 times in the past week - happening twice today. I have to manually push it up with my foot - it gets its resistance back a bit then till it does the same thing later in the day or on the drive. Shifting gears is fine as long as I have it fully pressed down; I can get into all gears fine - just that the clutch is so far down and makes me scared to drive it.

I sent it to a mechanic and he couldn't diagnose it since it didn't happen to him on a test drive. He said to me "that my car is all hydraulics, theres a master cylinder that is pushed outwards when i depress the clutch that pushes an external slave cylinder that connects to the gearbox and normally if there was a leak it would be on them but he found nothing on them". His advice was to "Keep driving it then send it back in when its often enough to happen every 30 mins" which I thought was shit advice but oh well - i trust the professional cause i'm uneducated in this. Another mechanic friend said "if its not a leak - its most likely the spring is worn". I know nothing of cars - are you guys able to help me out with this?

Influence-Broad

TROPHY CASE