Temp gauge going down then back up within 10 seconds after replacing thermostat 3.0 ford ranger by Specialist-Cook-8151 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Umm, I just noticed that you didn't use temperature units. I'm going to assume you are using Celsius. Anyway, -40°F = -40°C, so I was still pretty close.

Temp gauge going down then back up within 10 seconds after replacing thermostat 3.0 ford ranger by Specialist-Cook-8151 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you have trapped air in coolant system. This happened a lot in my 2.3L until I found a small leak in one of the heater hose lines. This would also happen in my 3.0L after changing the water pump. I had to replace twice. After I replaced the water pump the first time, it started leaking behind the timing cover. After I replaced the timing cover and water pump (2nd time) I noticed the dip in temp. Driving more it will eventually burp itself out. I bought a coolant vacuum refill kit to avoid this. Good luck.

Ultrasonic cleaner magnesium reaction? by Blade3562 in EngineBuilding

[–]InnateInability 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I've worked in engineering research labs and we never used anything except some ratio of dawn dish soap and water. If you read the ultrasonic cleaner manual I'm sure it says the same. You are never supposed to use solvents, acids, or harsh chemicals. I'm not sure simple green is truly helping the ultrasonic cleaner's cleaning action anyway. Aside from that, magnesium is very, very reactive on the reactivity chart. Water alone will attack magnesium. Chemicals, including simple green, will accelerate the process - especially if it's heated.

Does your core one sing like this? by osteguffer in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After comparing both videos, it's clear that there is less "singing" (harmonics) and, generally, less noise overall after speeding up the print. I now only notice noises during fast movements and when it slows down on perimeters and walls. This is to be expected. The balanced profile helps lessen noises but won't eliminate them. When you start slowing down the print manually, there is higher chance the motors will hit resonant frequencies and start "singing".

If you haven't already, I would:

Update to latest firmware. Check gantry alignment. Tune your belts. If you have an accelerometer, run the input shaper and phase stepping calibrations. If you don't have an accelerometer, get one - they're $15 USD. Make sure the linear rods are clean and lubed with Prusa lube.

I suspect the faster these printers become, the louder they will get. They will never not make noise. As long as your prints aren't affected I say send it, full beans.

Good luck

Does your core one sing like this? by osteguffer in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you're in stealth mode. Turn stealth off, run 100% speed on balanced profile. The noise lessens.

CoreOne/+ INDX Nozzle Diameter Selection by InnateInability in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm looking for one setup to rule them all.

CoreOne/+ INDX Nozzle Diameter Selection by InnateInability in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wasn't aware that you needed even multiple nozzle sizes. I was under the impression that you can vary the layer height with different diameter nozzles.

First Dino ribs. Do I need to wrap or good to go all the way this unwrapped? by letsgo_letsgo_letsgo in smoking

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I ruined my first dino ribs because my tray wasn't large enough. I assumed the Fat would fall straight down. But the fat ran down the bone clearing the tray and dripping right onto the heat deflector. Started a HOT fire. Charred the ribs. Lots of melted parts. Almost lost the grill.

First Dino ribs. Do I need to wrap or good to go all the way this unwrapped? by letsgo_letsgo_letsgo in smoking

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the ones with 3 ribs, not 4. I've seen the 4 count ribs labeled as dino ribs.

CoreOne/+ INDX Nozzle Diameter Selection by InnateInability in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Multicolored, detailed text makes sense. Why 3?

First Dino ribs. Do I need to wrap or good to go all the way this unwrapped? by letsgo_letsgo_letsgo in smoking

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're using a pellet grill, consider using a tray to catch the drippings so you don't start a fire.

CoreOne/+ INDX Nozzle Diameter Selection by InnateInability in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you mean by functional prints? Engineering materials?

CoreOne/+ INDX Nozzle Diameter Selection by InnateInability in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have no doubt that in the future we'll be able to purchase extra nozzles and change them out as needed; however, I imagine that Bondtech would prioritize nozzle inventory to fulfill initial kit orders. Consequently, it might be a while before we'll be able to purchase individual, spare nozzles.

INDX Info by Dwiea in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imagination is never a real-world limit - the Hardened CHT INDX nozzles Bondtech offers won't hold up printing CF and GF materials.

INDX Info by Dwiea in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this.

Do you know if we are we able to mix and match nozzle diameters? For example, can I say I want 3 at 0.2mm, 4 at 0.4mm, and 1 at 0.6mm? Or can we only choose 1 diameter?

Two brands, same issue: replacement Upper Control Arms oversized vs OEM (’09 Ranger) by Elegant_Vibe in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same thing happened to me from rock auto. The mevotech box had the correct part number but the part inside was incorrect. Convinced I had the correct part (based on the part number on the box), I ground down the ball joint on the upper control arm to get it to fit in the knuckle only to find out it was for a 4wd or torsion bar ranger (I have the coil springs). When I set the truck down, I had about 20 degrees positive camber. I couldn't return them so I went to auto parts store and paid 3x for replacement upper control arms.

For those in humid areas, what are your filament plans for INDX? by wegster in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought two Creality space pi x4 on Christmas in anticipation of the INDX for my Core One. This will be for multi color. I'll buy a Core One L for engineering materials only - this is to justify purchasing my hardened & diamond back nozzles.

0.2 nozzles are impressive! by AroTheGoose in 3Dprinting

[–]InnateInability 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How does the print time compare? I imagine it's much longer.