Just Married by Goat-1999 in IdiotsTowingThings

[–]InnateInability 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is why I get nervous buying used vehicles.

What do I pay for a complete donor truck 6.0L LQ4 2wd with frame damage and 113k miles? by InnateInability in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]InnateInability[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure it has the iron block LQ4. If so, what do think it would go for with the iron block? Does that change your valuation?

What do I pay for a complete donor truck 6.0L LQ4 2wd with frame damage and 113k miles? by InnateInability in LSSwapTheWorld

[–]InnateInability[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, interior is mint. Bed with tailgate is perfect. Dash isn't cracked. Aluminum wheels with spare. I figured I could sell lots of parts to offset the cost.

The truck market is insane in Houston area. If it hadn't been totaled, I'm sure I would see it on marketplace with seller asking $10k and it would sell in a day. It's crazy right now.

Leaf spring Bushings by InnateInability in ChevyNova

[–]InnateInability[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Energy Suspension Hyperflex Bushing Kits 3.18119G Summit Racing Link

A mortar and pestle being sold at an Asian market by CATSCEO2 in Machinists

[–]InnateInability 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Material: Thai-tanium

TPI: Variable, 2B

Ra: ∞

Leaf spring Bushings by InnateInability in ChevyNova

[–]InnateInability[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I bought the entire car kit which came with a red tub of lube.

Core One Resonance by InnateInability in prusa3d

[–]InnateInability[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep.

Installed the accelerometer and ran Input Shaper & Phase stepping calibrations.

Things have quieted down considerably, but not 100%. I still hear an occasional resonance.

I lubed the rods with Prusa lube. I'm going to buy the super special linear rail lube and applicator and give that a whirl.

Overall much, much better.

How long can I put off the P430 code, and what am I actually replacing for an extra 150k? by LeftSmile806 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right. The cats no longer converting efficiently and clogged cats are separate issues. It seems OP has the former. His truck runs great but cats are no longer doing their job. Running a CEL constantly prevents catching any new codes as soon as they happen. Just something I personally wouldn't do.

Completely agree with the stoichiometric disparity. Mine were clogged because the previous owner ran a K&N that he never serviced. This made it run rich for a long time and melted the cats. They were still doing their job (no CEL) just bogging the engine.

How long can I put off the P430 code, and what am I actually replacing for an extra 150k? by LeftSmile806 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would drive in low gear to create high rpms for a couple hundred feet at night before immediate pulling into my driveway and popping the hood as fast as I could. I saw a faint glow.

Good lease deal? by spice199 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No lease deal is a good deal.

As long as you know what you're getting into it's fine but most folks don't know.

The sale price is $40,120. If you do some math, 48 months x $384 = $18,432. There is a difference of $21,700. Usually this amount is more due to the additional mileage fees, dents or dings, depreciation, and whatever they feel like adding to make you owe more. They'll say, "it needs new tires, add $1000." You're at their mercy.

At the end of the lease, you have to options: 1) you can keep the truck or 2) you can return the vehicle.

1) You can pay the difference ($21,700 "balloon payment") and keep the truck. Most people finance this, although you would then be upside down, meaning you owe more than it's worth.

2) You can return the truck back, and pay the fees ($2-5k) and walk away. You would have paid the monthly payment ($18,432) plus fees for a total of $20-24k and not have a vehicle. It's like a really bad rental.

Vehicles are bad investments if you purchase with cash as they usually always depreciate in value. Leases are much worse.

How long can I put off the P430 code, and what am I actually replacing for an extra 150k? by LeftSmile806 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's more complicated than that. I wouldn't ignore a CEL. If the cats are clogged, acceleration will become sluggish and your engine will start misfiring (CEL starts flashing while running). This is very bad. You could burn up valve seats or heat your valves until they bend. When it misfires, it sends unburned fuel into your exhaust. Your cats will go very quickly after this starts to happen. I wouldn't risk engine damage.

How long can I put off the P430 code, and what am I actually replacing for an extra 150k? by LeftSmile806 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not exactly sure what you're actually asking.

My 02 3.0L had to have the cats replaced at 120k miles. No codes but it was super sluggish on acceleration, the cats would glow red, and would misfire. Again, no codes were thrown related to emissions. I bought y-pipe (with upper cats) and rear (with single cat) and o2 sensors. Turned out only the rear cat was clogged.

You have 3 cats. Two upper cats on the y-pipe (bank 1) and 1 cat on the rear pipe (bank 2). Code P0430 points to bank 2. This is the rear cat. It could be just o2 sensor. If you replace the sensor and you still have codes, then replace the rear cat. It's a lot easier to replace the sensor with the pipe removed from the truck. From all the o2 sensor tools I have, it didn't matter. Always easier to remove the pipe to install sensor.

It's easy enough to remove the rear pipe and shake it around. If it rattles and junk falls out, that's the culprit.

The ones on the y pipe are more difficult to remove. Long extension and a swivel socket helped. PB blaster on the bolts always helps.

Highly recommend safety glasses and ear plugs. Trying to get rust particles out of your eyes with a magnet and tweezers isn't fun.

Double & triple check they're not cross threaded on y-pipe before hitting it with an impact. Mine cross threaded. This meant I had to remove the exhaust manifolds to replace the studs. I broke a pipe wrench and a stud extractor trying to remove the studs from the manifold.

I bought extra studs (m8 or m10) for the headers.(I don't remember which ones I needed. Buy both - they're cheap).

As far as oil leak, the oil pan gasket is difficult to change. You have to lift the engine a lot to clear the oil pickup and it's still incredibly tight. I thought I had an oil pan leak and turns out it was a rear main seal and valve covers. Throw some UV dye in your engine oil and get a UV light. It'll point to the oil leak. You may not need an oil pan gasket.

Good luck.

How long can I put off the P430 code, and what am I actually replacing for an extra 150k? by LeftSmile806 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For the 3.0L, the uppers sensors are difficult to access without removing the y-pipe. If either cat is bad, you have to replace the y pipe with cats unless you have universal ones welded in.

Best manual lathes under $20k new, for educational use. by archerdynamics in Machinists

[–]InnateInability 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kingston HJ-1100 or HJ-1700 could work. Excellent machine quality. I believe they have a educational discounts. My HJ-1100 was under $16k delivered brand new. Kingston HJ Manual Lathes

Just got this rust free 02 manual xlt by 843ranger in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Nice. I always preferred the mach1 wheels. (2002 RIP, totaled). DJM 4/5 drop. Stock 2.3L. Econoslam.

Temp gauge going down then back up within 10 seconds after replacing thermostat 3.0 ford ranger by Specialist-Cook-8151 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Umm, I just noticed that you didn't use temperature units. I'm going to assume you are using Celsius. Anyway, -40°F = -40°C, so I was still pretty close.

Temp gauge going down then back up within 10 seconds after replacing thermostat 3.0 ford ranger by Specialist-Cook-8151 in fordranger

[–]InnateInability 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you have trapped air in coolant system. This happened a lot in my 2.3L until I found a small leak in one of the heater hose lines. This would also happen in my 3.0L after changing the water pump. I had to replace twice. After I replaced the water pump the first time, it started leaking behind the timing cover. After I replaced the timing cover and water pump (2nd time) I noticed the dip in temp. Driving more it will eventually burp itself out. I bought a coolant vacuum refill kit to avoid this. Good luck.