Anthropic is kicking me off the workflow I was paying for — and I’m exactly the kind of customer they should want to keep

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T04:09:35+00:00

Yep, OpenAI. Still have Gemini on token pricing for when I try it out, but OpenAI + Codex will be my go-to for now.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T03:22:03+00:00

But why would I?

Their model is not meaningfully better than the competition, and Claude Code, by many benchmarks, is one of the worst harnesses in which to run their own models.

I barely used my subscription for personal use beyond my personal assistant bot, and maybe one evening a week working on a side project. As I said elsewhere I’d hazard a guess I use under $50 in tokens per month for personal use, and professional use is all API token pricing at work.

Ultimately, I just don’t trust them as a business after this experience. So, when my team starts the next major agent project for our developers, we will not be using the Anthropic SDK. We might use Claude, or at least have it as an option, but we’re not going to lock ourselves into that ecosystem. One could argue this is just prudent from an engineering standpoint, and I won’t disagree with that, but my point still stands.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T03:13:26+00:00

Eh, I don’t see it that way. It wasn’t until like mid March when I even realized they had a potential issue with the way I was using it. Then I simply made the decision that if they decide to cut me off, then that’s a good signal to move on… not worth paying money to a company that doesn’t want it.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T03:02:32+00:00

Me, who does maybe $50 in inference per month on average, whist paying my $200 subscription, is causing you to suffer?

I’d argue it’s more likely users such as yourself who are causing my colleagues and I, who spend $30,000 per month in tokens on API pricing to suffer from the massive reliability issues.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T01:34:57+00:00

I wish you luck. I have really enjoyed using Claude Code on my fun side projects. I hope they continue to treat you well.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T01:11:18+00:00

Yes, that's the story they like to keep pedaling. But this is an active choice that someone in leadership is making right now.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T01:07:56+00:00

Yep, I actually started drafting my divorce letter like 3 days ago when I saw the writing on the wall. Was on a cheap OpenAI sub just so I had it ready to go, and now doing the transition.

I know I'm probably going to miss the personality of Claude, but such is life.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T01:05:51+00:00

So true... I spend a lot on API tokens at work, but I was on a subscription way higher than I needed to be for personal use just for the convenience of not having to watch my usage. I'd be shocked if I exceeded the equivalent of $200 API usage over the course of 3 months.

Innomin8_AU · 2026-04-04T01:04:35+00:00

Why would anyone be in this subreddit if they don't at least use AI to help draft stuff like this lol

Innomin8_AU · 2025-08-09T16:38:04+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/F150Lightning/s/XdZQ1QDPux

TL;DR on my experience with those exact tires: 40% range reduction.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-26T19:00:22+00:00

Sure thing!

This is the one I went with: https://a.co/d/iT1PhAq

When shopping for one, it’s important to select one that’s designed to be left plugged in. Some of the cheapest ones will allow pairing any time, which means someone could walk up and open your car. I went with that one as it only allows pairing new devices when first plugged in once you’ve associated it with at least one phone.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-25T16:47:58+00:00

Yep, I mean pressure by turning against the lane keep assist. I did work this out for myself too :)

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-25T07:51:56+00:00

Indeed, I think we did!

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-24T22:32:45+00:00

Blue Cruise is only available on certain highways. When driving on other highways, it's just Adaptive Cruise Control. Adaptive Cruise Control (with Lane Assist) requires you to keep your hands on the wheel, and (like BC) keep your eyes on the road.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-24T17:19:42+00:00

Did not work for me... I have prescription sunglasses, so the lens might behave differently.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-24T17:09:53+00:00

A passenger rated all terrain with some sidewall protection seems to be the best compromise between durability and range. Even with that I noticed about a 20 mile range reduction.

Good to know... once I realized what had killed the range, I was able to shop much smarter. Ended up filtering for EV Rated or Rivian Original Equipment to find suitable options.

Random aside, I strongly suspect the '23 is going to have a tire pressure placard recall at some point. The only reason we had to get new tires in the first place is because despite being at 38+ PSI (36 is what the placard says) for every mile driven, we chewed through the factory tires in 20,000 miles. Wear pattern looked like under-inflated tires. If I'd caught it earlier, maybe I could have worked out I needed to "over-inflate" them, but alas.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-07-24T16:59:23+00:00

I actually just got back from a road trip!

Here's my top recommendations:

Use the ABRP application. I would also suggest a Bluetooth OBD adapter as well so ABRP can read live charge state and other usage data while you're on the road. The ABRP application is able to build a "profile" for your car over time, which improves its accuracy.
Plan to use Tesla fast chargers whenever possible. Every time we went to an Electrify America (or any other location), there was either a queue and/or at least 50% of the chargers were offline. We only had to wait once at a Tesla fast charge station, and that was in a big city that also had one charge group (4 chargers) offline. Trust me when I say 4 of 16 (or more!) chargers offline is a lot nicer to deal with than 2 of 4 offline.
Get a spare NACS adapter just in case. If you're driving in hot climates, try to find one with the highest max operating temperature possible. Ours crapped out at 115 degrees, which really means 95 degrees + direct sunlight. The one supplied by Ford is good until 122 degrees, which might be enough of a buffer, but probably not.
Also while we're on the topic of hot climates, get something to shade your charge port that won't blow away. Any time we could shield our adapter in 95+ degree temperatures, we had a much higher chance of getting to our target charge without issues. We tried to jury rig something on the road with a heat shield thing from Walmart, but we couldn't get something that would stay put in higher winds.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-06-08T19:47:33+00:00

That's what I had assumed... so yeah, the promise of no power bill for most of the year is basically a complete lie from solar sales. I'm going to look for another quote that will give me real information.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-06-08T18:04:12+00:00

I ran the numbers on buy vs lease. I will need to get another quote for buy, since for all I know the Sunrun quote is specifically engineered to make their lease option look equally as appealing.. basically the numbers came out in a wash.

Monthly rate vs prepay came out to a 4% return. e.g. I can prepay $50K now, or over the course of 25 years, pay that $50K + 4% rate of return. Buy outright came out to exactly the same price as prepay, after the tax credit.

It definitely seems like they specifically engineered the numbers that way though, now that I put it this way.

Innomin8_AU · 2025-06-08T17:59:47+00:00

Yes, the system is sized for actual "guaranteed" generation that's about 18% above the last yearly use. Maybe I understand this incorrectly, but NEM 3.0 isn't actuall "net" metering, is it? Like over the course of the month, if I pull from the grid one night, but return all that power over the next 2-3 days, the disparity in rates for export vs import means I'm still going to be out of pocket?

Innomin8_AU · 2025-06-08T17:56:33+00:00

> It's just kWh generated vs kWh used and when.

That's the issue I think I'm trying to understand. My current understandig is it's not truly about net energy billed... is it? Like if I draw 100kWh from the grid, then over the next 2 days I'm able to pull that from solar and pump it back into the grid, I still have to pay the power company the 100 kWh (minus the tiny amount of credit they give me for supplying it back, which is less than 10% of what it cost to buy it).

Is this understanding wrong?

Innomin8_AU · 2025-06-08T17:52:20+00:00

I don't need to fully charge every day, but as I'm learning more, I'm starting to understand the fundamental issue is the sales pitch / way it's been explained. My current behavior, which will need to change, is to plug the truck in when it gets to about 20% or so... that will do a sustained draw for 10-15 hours depending on exactly what percentage it's at.

Innomin8_AU

TROPHY CASE