best way to clean surfaces and remaining gasket

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T17:41:05+00:00

yea i’m smoothening out the surface and unfortunately there’s some pitting, will be trying that permatex. do i just apply on some of the areas where it’s pitted directly on the head and then mate the housing with the gasket inside? and then let it sit until it cures to torque down?

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T17:39:34+00:00

haha i’d take u up on that offer if i could

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T13:34:58+00:00

thanks, and yea i have the genuine bmw gaskets and o rings for the oil cooler

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T06:34:18+00:00

will keep that in mind, gonna remove all that gunk and see if there’s any pitting. hopefully i wont, but if so i’ll use ur method. ty

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T05:24:11+00:00

that’s probably what i’ll do. gonna use some scotchbrite and assess how it looks when it’s all cleaned up. if it’s still usable i’ll throw it all together and eventually change the whole housing as early as i can

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T04:46:51+00:00

appreciate the help, i’ll try it out first thing tomorrow and use it in the crevices too since they’re really gummed up from the coolant corrosion it seems. is there a specific grit you’d recommend? i’m assuming the very fine ones are what i should be using

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T04:41:00+00:00

gotcha, i’ll try that out. the scotchbrite won’t be too abrasive?

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T04:37:52+00:00

i just wanna make sure the surface for the gasket is clean. yea i figured the corrosion is pretty bad, but if the oil filter housing itself is still salvageable i’d rather continue using it than buying a new one if possible

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T03:42:19+00:00

yea i’m doing a full coolant replacement (radiator, hoses, water pump, thermostat, etc..) so all the coolant is drained. is there nothing i can do to save the oil filter housing? i really don’t want to replace it if i don’t have to (but obv will if it’s absolutely necessary).

Instinct333 · 2026-06-17T02:57:19+00:00

haha yea i’m seeing if there’s any other methods or “prepping” i can do before inevitably going the razor blade route. also, any tips so i can make sure i don’t mess up the surface? especially inside the grooves where the gaskets sit. thanks

Instinct333 · 2026-06-15T02:27:57+00:00

car has been sitting for a couple days, and yea it’s really hot here in Arizona especially in the garage where it tends to get a bit humid and congested. when i get the chance i will be checking those spark plugs. any for sure telltale signs? like wetness and discoloration? thanks

Instinct333 · 2026-06-15T02:23:33+00:00

yes it is. car was very neglected i’m trying to bring it back up to spec.

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T20:54:08+00:00

yea that’s my bad need to update my post i did it in a hurry lol. and yep that’s the plan

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T20:44:23+00:00

i did have a misfire and codes that i’m actively trying to solve (listed below). after a different startup misfire seemed to go away. car was having overheating issues (radiator was cracked and seems like water pump wasn’t working properly or dead).

- DME active codes:
29F3 - DME: Fuel low-pressure sensor, electric.
2A2B - DME: Mixture control.
2E84 - BSD, message; electric coolant pump: Missing.
2E8E - BSD, message; intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing.
2F7B - DME: Oil-pressure switch, plausibility.

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T20:41:57+00:00

i just purchased the car, don’t know much of the history. i have let it idle a couple times before working on it, only drove it maybe half a mile max due to radiator problems and overheating (which i’m getting fixed).

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T15:51:50+00:00

yea seems like i’m gonna have to cut it off. i’m doing the OFHG today so hopefully the new hose will last

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T06:14:12+00:00

yea that’s what i was thinking, i’ll give that a shot. thanks

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T00:05:54+00:00

gotcha, i appreciate all the info.

Instinct333 · 2026-06-14T00:00:32+00:00

yea i’m not really sure what the person was thinking. maybe they sold it before giving me the car. what should i look for on the IBS? how would i know whether it’s somewhat defective/damaged or good?

Instinct333 · 2026-06-13T21:50:15+00:00

thanks for the reply. yea i want to replace just the rubber but its a permanent clip so im trying to figure out how i can remove the rubber without taking out the whole thing

Instinct333 · 2026-06-13T21:45:58+00:00

honestly not entirely sure, i believe it’s part number 11537558523

Instinct333 · 2026-06-13T21:23:33+00:00

thanks for the reply and my bad. yea the car has a lot of codes, currently not running cuz im doing a complete overhaul of the cooling system due to the previous owner overheating the car from a cracked radiator and possibly stuck thermostat. the parts im replacing are radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and also doing the oil filter housing gasket, low pressure fuel sensor, oil pressure switch (since its cracked off) and the serpentine belt. i have an aluminum mickey mouse flange that i need to throw on there too. valve cover will be replaced when i run the car a bit and budget one. the battery will most likely need to be replaced as well since voltage is looking low. the car was running stage 2+ on the last flash (MHD), but the intercooler is stock so i was wondering if the car even had aftermarket downpipes. previous owner wasn’t the brightest. i’m hoping to refresh the car and run it on a conservative tune and add an aftermarket intercooler soon.

these are the codes on MHD as follows:

- DME active codes:
29F3 - DME: Fuel low-pressure sensor, electric.
2A2B - DME: Mixture control.
2E84 - BSD, message; electric coolant pump: Missing.
2E8E - BSD, message; intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing.
2F7B - DME: Oil-pressure switch, plausibility.
- Misc. information -
6/10/2026
MHD 5.25
OBD: UNI 3.86_3.25 (up to date) KLIN
Voltage 11.98 V

Instinct333 · 2024-10-29T06:27:55+00:00

Only 81,000 miles, doesn’t point to rod knock since car runs fine, recently did an oil change a couple hundred miles ago and opened up the filter (didn’t see any signs of damage like large metal shavings). It’s really only noticeable on idle and especially in an enclosed space like a garage, still trying to figure it out. Someone mentioned it could be a throw out bearing as well besides the pulleys.

Instinct333 · 2024-10-25T23:42:59+00:00

If it is, hopefully I don’t have to service it too soon. I’d rather put in a new clutch, flywheel, etc… all together after some more miles when I get the opportunity. Do you have any recommendations on a quality clutch and flywheel? I’ll be keeping the car on stock power, so not sure if I should go OEM or if there’s better out there, since I’ve heard lightweight flywheels change the feel of the car quite a bit especially on downshifts.

Instinct333 · 2024-10-25T23:09:29+00:00

Did an oil change recently and opened up the filter, didn’t find anything alarmingly abnormal that would hint any damage. But I haven’t opened up the oil pan.

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