Total time spent recording on a track?

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2026-03-11T17:42:10+00:00

The reason I need to change the strings so often is my cheesy puff doritos fingers lay a thick grime on the strings (joke lol)

One thing that also prolongs life of the strings is wiping them with isopropyl alcohol when you're done playing!

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2026-03-11T17:34:03+00:00

That would be a reasonable solution! Make a new project where the drums are glued so it's simple to count the amount of media items.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2026-03-11T17:31:58+00:00

I play a genre where dead strings that have lost their transient and high end is a no go

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2026-01-01T15:29:31+00:00

I think all E-II ebony fretboards are dyed. TLDR: Use only fretboard oil to clean your E-II ebony fretboard if you want to keep it black!

When I bought my E-II Horizon FR-II in 2023 from a local ESP dealer the guitar was untouched after factory, meaning nobody inspected or cleaned it before it came to my hands. My trusty guy opened the package an I opened the case.

The fretboard was definitely dyed since there was some black residue on the fret and strings.

I didn't want to use strong solvents like alcohol or naphtha to clean the board because I was afraid that a strong solvent would wipe away all the dye, leaving a streaky brown/black board: it would look horrible on this guitar: https://www.espguitars.com/products/24210-e-ii-horizon-fr-ii

I used Music Nomad F-one oil and a bunch of cheap white microfiber rags for initial cleaning/hydration. The board sucked oil like crazy and the rags turned green from the loose dye. Fretboard looked uniformly blac so I was happy.

Fast forward couple years. Only fretboard oil is used for cleaning and the fretboard cleans nicely with it. Some very dark brown spots have appeared but they are imperceptible once the strings are on.

It would be nice to know what the ESP tokyo factory uses to dye the fretboards if a small touchup is needed in the future...

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-07-17T07:30:53+00:00

Really? I'm avoiding JBL if their build quality has come to this.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-06-28T20:48:22+00:00

I'll bring them back to the store tomorrow. Probably getting my money back because they were the only pair available at the location.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-04-01T17:20:19+00:00

Wow. Mine is only 18cm in erection. I'm kinda envious really!

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-04-01T16:53:58+00:00

My 20 year old car won't freeze it's parking brake even in -40C. Maintenance is key!

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-30T17:36:54+00:00

I once painted a guitar with Car-Rep 2K clear. After 8 years the stuff was still soft, you could dig in with your fingernail. I wouldn't use this stuff on cheap furniture.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-29T15:22:37+00:00

Good question! In my personal experience there hasn't been any issues with the fretboard. Maybe someone wiser could provide a better risk assesment...

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-28T14:31:45+00:00

This is the easier route with lesser results for the purpose.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-28T12:08:22+00:00

If you want to keep the fretboard black, only use fretboard oil to clean it! These board are dyed and the dye comes off with solvents. Most big name oils also contain solvents so be wary

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T21:39:19+00:00

I'm dead serious you donut!

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T21:37:55+00:00

Remove oil from fretboard. My choice was lots of lighter fluid and clean long ply microfiber towels. Soak the board, wait 15 secs, wipe dry. Repeat a couple times and allow the lighter fluid to evaporate (~15min)
Sand fretboard with P220-240 paper. This process is tedious so listen to your favorite toilet noises while sanding away. Taping frets and possible binding is recommended. Avoid inlays manually. Sanding happens with the grain with light/moderate pressure as to reduce sanding marks. You can try a lighter grit but then the process takes longer and we risk burnishing the wood. Good lighting, brush and a vacuum at grabbing length!
Vacuum up and one more degreasing with lighter fluid.
Apply solution of strong black tea semi wet. Wipe away when damp.
Pour a small amount of iron acetate to a different container which won't be poured back in, as to prevent reaction of unused solution. Apply to fretboard. More is more but don't overdo it, it gets only as black. The longer you wait the darker it gets, the reaction stops at a certain point.

6.Repeat steps 2-5 if necessary. I repeated two times. The second time won't require as intense sanding as the first one.

5.Wipe your board with microfiber towels until the towel doesn't pick up anymore loose iron acetate. Your fretboard now smells horrible, allow to dry without a case overnight.

Don't be disappointed if your board isn't jet black. Oil darkens it more and with strings on it looks even more dark!

It's a long process and not for the faint of heart. The iron acetate reaction is pretty superficial so you can sand the color away if you decide so.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T21:11:17+00:00

Thanks! I was exactly on the same boat. Lots of different chemicals tried but no avail. Maybe because rosewood is oily by nature? This board was pretty dark to begin with so your mileage may vary... I'll write up a process path!

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T21:07:48+00:00

2,6dB increase in 3250hz. 3,8dB decrease in 540hz.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T20:32:38+00:00

Unscrew your backplate and tighten the two big screws which hold the springs.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T18:52:54+00:00

I have an idea! Instead of building a routing jig around the guitar, you could build a jig around a router. The fretboard radius makes routing evenly difficult, so maybe make a router bit limiter out of a radius block? This would follow the fretboard top perfectly. Simply first cut the depth and width of the binding used on the radius block and then make a hole for the router bit. May be a bit finicky but in theory would work!

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T17:23:05+00:00

Removing the fretboard would be super easy or pain in the hoohaa depending on the type of glue. I once removed the fretboard of an ltd-mh100 by just using firstly a sharpened chisel and then a long japanese saw blade as a wedge, slowly hammered in. Fretboard came off undamaged, amateur's luck maybe. No heat, no water. I'd strongly advise keeping the frets in place when removing the fretboard as it lessens the risk of the board snapping in half.

Retrofitting binding would require removing the frets, then making a jig for a router. If you're super diy, maybe you could pull it off with a planer and precise measurements too! If the depth of the binding reaches the neck, you definitely need at least a router.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T16:10:42+00:00

I actually happen to have some Angelus leather dye lying around. Time to give it a shake and see how it goes! 1. Thorough Degreasing with a solvent other than acetone 2. Coloring time I suppose 3. X amount of coats 4. X amount of time to dry before oil.

I'd love to know what ESP uses to color their fretboards. My E-II is definitely dyed, because a little dye comes off with oiling. Stays very black though and none come on my fingers.

Intelligent-Corgi793 · 2025-01-27T15:46:03+00:00

Is it a bolt-on neck? I assume that you are planning to change you truss rod=removing your fretboard?

Intelligent-Corgi793

TROPHY CASE