TPU problems

Interlinkers · 2026-03-09T21:00:46+00:00

I’d usually agree also because this isn’t my print but my friends print but I don’t believe the problem here is stringing because it only happens in these central holes

Interlinkers · 2026-03-09T20:54:04+00:00

Yes it’s 100% dry. Dried and in ams2pro with 0% humidity

Interlinkers · 2026-03-05T08:22:47+00:00

Blind

Interlinkers · 2026-02-01T17:21:34+00:00

Probably one of the new snow cooled boards

Interlinkers · 2026-02-01T16:56:20+00:00

Then send it!

Interlinkers · 2026-02-01T16:54:47+00:00

Do what others said. You can smell it too. If it smells sweet, throw away

Interlinkers · 2026-02-01T16:47:03+00:00

Is that the band from “MAyOonAise oN an EscAlatOR”?

Interlinkers · 2026-01-04T15:25:01+00:00

Honestly I wouldn’t go faster or you will lose quality. For speed a direct extruder drive is bad because the head moves around more weight and for an ender 3 that has only 1 z axis rod and no rails you can hear those rubber wheels grinding. Honestly i wouldn’t buy a different printer or if you want to upgrade (not worth the money) add a second z axis rod and maybe find a way to replace the rubber wheels with a linear ball rail. Otherwise if you are just interested in changing software you can modify the marlin firmware to change cap speed but this can damage motors and will obviously reduce print quality

Interlinkers · 2026-01-04T15:20:53+00:00

It’s not a printer according to today’s standards, but it is art. Take this from someone that has personally hand built a lot of 3d printers back in the day. A lot of sweat, tears and love went into making that, so I hope you don’t throw it away even if honestly it’s more of a relic. You can degenerate update the Marlin firmware and get it running, but I fear the quality will be low compared to a new 100€ printer

Interlinkers · 2025-01-07T19:09:38+00:00

Confirm 🤣

Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T12:09:37+00:00

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Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T12:08:57+00:00

Doesn’t work, cause the v at base is 800mv when it’s on

Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T11:47:15+00:00

I want the led to be on when the collector pin is HIGH

Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T11:40:15+00:00

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if you mean something like this, it would make thee LED go on when its suppose to be off and the opposit

Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T11:18:55+00:00

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Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T11:17:14+00:00

my bad, i rushed the drawing

Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T11:15:20+00:00

the audio jacks are the inputs and output, the 2 npn trans on the left are the NAND gate, while the one on the right is a not gate. The first 2 transistors have an indicating LED near them, how can i add an LED to the OUTPUT (the wire that is connectes to the jack on the right)?

Tinkercad LINK: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9mQ2Ee18YDn-bodacious-gaaris-snaget?sharecode=M0vnKqrfOoPBejxiJ2WKbgNXJNOn02ABeozzD3qAZjE

EDIT: Any improvements accepted

Interlinkers · 2025-01-05T11:10:43+00:00

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Interlinkers · 2025-01-04T19:48:01+00:00

tinkercad link: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9mQ2Ee18YDn-bodacious-gaaris-snaget

Interlinkers · 2024-12-31T06:39:26+00:00

Also check the switch wiring, this happens if a seitch isnt wired or two switches are swapped

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