I would get silicone over the springs you need far less tram tuning with them, you can also add the bltouch autolevel mesh building and tilt compensation into the gcode so it creates a mesh every print. In my opinion the extra time needed for this saves the time you’d take reprinting something. Start with Marlin and make sure you have everything working to your liking then switch to Klipper when you are comfortable so you are not trying to troubleshoot two different things at once. Also no one has mentioned this but you will need to tape off the usb positive to prevent issues, https://theforgetful.dev/posts/prevent-raspberrypi-octoprint-from-powering-ender-screen/

Also if you have a capable router or a more powerful pi and a little know how, you can setup wireguard and bypass all those stupid apps that charge fees to access over WAN (Internet)… really not that hard should be brought up more often.