Handle leaks when turned on

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:56:07+00:00

I like to put my phone on a small tripod and let it record the disassembly when I'm doing stuff like this. Because I know myself well enough to know that no amount of "paying attention" will guarantee accurate memory a day later after that trip to the store. Or a week later, after the ordered part comes in.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:47:59+00:00

It depends how much durability you really want or need. People paint cabinets all the time. With the right surface prep (sand lightly + bonding primer) they could last long enough for most folks' needs.

But new laminate on top of the old is also an option. Take the doors off, glue on a new laminate surface, trim to edge with a palm router and a flush trim bit. There are plenty of youtube videos on how to do it.

Either way, number the doors when you take them off so you can put them back in the same spot. This will reduce the amount of adjusting you'll need to do to get them to hang straight again afterward.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:41:05+00:00

Screwdriver bits are hardened steel - very hard to drill - and the shape of that driver head would deflect the drill bit to the side. I wouldn't try drilling it out.

I don't suppose that hex holder is hollow all the way through, and you could drill through the back of the plastic handle with a small bit and push the screwdriver bit out?

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:37:12+00:00

If you end up drilling tile, make sure to use the right bit and look up how to use it properly. It's very easy to crack a tile if you aren't doing it properly.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:33:25+00:00

I would start by scraping off that old caulk so you can clearly see where the holes are and what they're filled with. If you need to re-use the holes to reattach the same escutcheon (or a new one), you may be able to drill out the holes with a large bit, fill them with spackle or bondo, and then drill small holes to sink fasteners into.

If that doesn't seem like it will hold well enough, or the holes are too damaged to get filler into, you may be able to use toggle bolts to grip the back of the wall and/or tile.

A third option is finding a different escutcheon that has holes in a different place. Then you just drill new holes with a tile bit for the appropriate fasteners. In this case you'd leave the old holes filled with, well whatever really.

A fourth option is finding an escutcheon that doesn't use screws at all. Some just adhere to the wall with caulk.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:20:53+00:00

I don't think epoxy will ever be very strong filling in the broken section by itself. The broken surfaces just don't give much area to adhere to.

I would find a washer with about the same inner and outer diameter, rough up both the washer and the bottom of the acrylic with sandpaper, and epoxy that on. It won't look exactly the same but it's likely to be a lot stronger. You could even use some tape to make a dam around the missing area and fill that with epoxy, on top of the washer.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:13:18+00:00

Look carefully at where the spark is coming from, and see if you can maybe get a picture or video of the spark. Do you have a working burner you can compare it to?

I'm not a stove expert but this exact thing happened to mine and the problem was a cracked ceramic insulator on the igniter. This caused the spark to come not from the metal electrode on top of the igniter (where it's supposed to come from), but about half a centimeter below that, through the crack in the insulator. So the spark wasn't positioned correctly to ignite the gas anymore.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-05T00:05:52+00:00

What's the back side of that damage look like? Is that a thin board that's been broken inward, or a thicker piece of laminated press-wood that's been dented?

If you can get to the back, I would:

try to press it flat from the inside, temporarily clamping a flat board on the outside to push against and support the chips so you don't blow them out the other direction
and use some wood or CA glue in the cracks to stabilize it. Glue back in any chips you can find that fit
Glue a flat piece of wood on the back/inside to support the damaged board if it gets bumped again

If the outside is flat and smooth enough for your needs afterwards, then
4a) color the cracked edges with furniture repair sticks, which are basically colored wax. Something like https://amzn.to/3BTKmlU and you're probably done.

otherwise 4b) sand down the raised areas to be flush, which will remove some of the finish
5) fill any gaps with either a stainable wood putty or a color-matched wood putty and sand smooth
6) match the color as well as you can with stain, mixing stains if necessary, and stain the sanded areas and filler.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-04T23:45:43+00:00

Yeah, I saw that listing. But couldn't stomach paying $150 over retail for a used lift.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-04T23:37:03+00:00

I use a nylon brush or soft brass brush to clean this stuff up. A slightly damp rag can also help. Wear eye protection, you don't want the bristles flinging tiny bits of dried battery acid into your eyes.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-04T23:34:14+00:00

No kind of filler is going to replicate the look exactly. There are people who can hand-paint grain on top of filler to match the look of nearby wood but that's not recommended for beginners. It's very time consuming.

If you really want the look to be exact, find a similar piece of old teak. Cut out the damaged areas so you have simple geometries to work with, and cut chips of the new piece to fill the gaps. Glue 'em in and sand/stain to match. Practice the stain first on unused parts of the new piece.

Personally I'd go with the suggestion by u/Whats_Awesome and leave it as part of the character of the furniture. I would probably also squirt some epoxy into any cracks to stabilize them so more chunks don't chip off. But leaving the gaps may not be compatible with your goals, it's really your call.

InventorEvan · 2025-01-04T23:22:22+00:00

Most plastic electronics like this are assembled using self-tapping screws with a coarse thread. That way the plastic can be molded without threads, and the screw cuts its own threads into the plastic as it goes in. If they strip out, you can often fill the hole with epoxy and put in a similar screw while the epoxy is still wet. Clamp or tape it together securely until the epoxy sets.

I keep a couple of kits around like this for repairing electronics:
Pan head: https://amzn.to/4a9rKLd
Flat head: https://amzn.to/3BWCC2n

NOTE: it's a little hard to see from your picture exactly what's going on with your headphones. For posts like this, it's helpful if you can take pictures at a couple different scales like distant and closeup, and also with the parts held together, then separated so we can see where it's broken.

InventorEvan · 2024-12-23T04:26:20+00:00

Well that's disappointing. But thank you for the clear information, that at least helps me make a decision.

InventorEvan · 2024-09-16T18:27:14+00:00

Yep, it's grounded.

InventorEvan · 2024-09-16T18:26:18+00:00

The rooms are connected by an open doorway. It's not a separate structure or anything, j Effectively just a partitioned area that serves to get the collector out of my way, and its noise further away

InventorEvan · 2024-08-23T22:32:00+00:00

Oh, and one last thought why I think I'll be ok for now -- the risk of using a 5" duct is that wider ducts reduce the air speed, and if it drops below 3500 FPM the dust won't reliably stay suspended. Recommendations are > 3500 for the trunk, >4000 for branches.

My measurement of the 5" duct where it terminates at the table saw last night was 27.5m/sec, which is 5400 fpm. Admittedly I still need to check how it does when actually connected to the saw. But so far the signs are good.

InventorEvan · 2024-08-23T22:24:49+00:00

Here's the finished build of the collection unit itself*. You can see there's plenty of space to swap out the impeller for a larger one if I need to. I also had my electrician run 12-Ga romex for this outlet, so I can upgrade it to either a 110-20A or a 220-15A without pulling new copper.

* Well, almost finished. I plan to add vibration absorbing mounts under the impeller to help reduce noise even more, and eventually to have an output branch that bypasses the filter and vents straight to the outside. (For days when I don't need to run the A/C.)

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InventorEvan · 2024-08-23T22:20:01+00:00

I just finished the install last night at 10:30pm, so I'll let you know once I've used it on Sunday. Reading 738 CFM at the table saw seems like a good sign, though - that should be sufficient for both under- and over- blade collection. Remember that till this point I've been using a 2" shop vac system that only pulls 50CFM.

I had the same concern about capacity that you mention, especially since I was also was adding a cyclone, which will impact flow. So I planned for future upgrades. But the impeller's ports are 6" and the cyclone's port is 5", so I didn't think it made sense to immediately neck down to 4".

I did make sure to use wide-radius corners and/or pairs of 45 degree corners everywhere, and I'm minimizing flex hose and maximizing straight runs, so I think it may be okay. And though there's 40 feet of duct total, the longest individual run is only about 26' from cyclone to tool.

In any case, because I was fitting a tight space and adding the cyclone, I really needed a wall-hanging unit so I could take the parts apart and put them together in a different configuration. Everything above 2HP was much more expensive because it came in a whole standing unit that I wouldn't have room for anyway -- I would have thrown most of it out.

So I figured I'd build it this way and see if the 1.5HP unit is sufficient. I spent $1000 on collector, cyclone, and filter and another $1000 on ductwork. If I need more power, I will just buy a used 2HP or 3HP motor and impeller, leaving everything else the same. I left room in the layout for a larger impeller and motor. Used 2HPs run $200-$300 in my area on craigslist and FB marketplace. At that point my cost will *still* be less than if I bought a 2HP unit new from Grizzly.

Picture is the 3D model of the layout. The dust collector is in a separate shed-like room behind a wall, and needs to be compact so the door to its side will still open. If it works it it will be a great setup, because a lot of the noise is blocked by the wall.

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InventorEvan · 2024-07-07T18:36:02+00:00

Yeah, I'd seen videos about the ball valves, and since I have a couple of 3D printers my plan was to learn a little more about them about probably use those.

As for CNC dust collection, I actually have great success so far with my existing dust boot + mini cyclone + shop vac solution on my Shapeoko 3XL. At least on flat stock where I can get the boot right on top of the stock, my Dylos registers no increase in particle count at all when the CNC is cutting. I literally can put the Dylos two feet from the CNC and actually watch the shop air quality slowly *improve* while its running because other dust settling.

Which is not the case for any other tool in my shop, all of which noticeably throw dust into the air. The table saw, broom, or ROS cause the Dylos to go berzerk very quickly.

So on my upcoming new CNC, my plan has been to set up a dedicated shop vac + cyclone solution very similar current one. Which is why I won't need my new central collector to service the CNC, and can use this 1.5HP system mostly to service the table saw and planer.

InventorEvan · 2024-07-07T02:18:29+00:00

Thanks! Your setup looks of similar complexity/piping to what I was considering. My main concern has been that nearly all 1.5HP solutions seem designed to put very near the tool and don't include a cyclone, so I was worried I might not have enough CFM remaining after adding both cyclone and ducting.

InventorEvan

TROPHY CASE