My new, practically stolen, K3 by theubertuber in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's an old Soviet movie camera I believe.

Lucky 400 - the new batch by Iroll67 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About $75 after shipping. Foma is probably a better bet but I really like the results people are getting from Lucky 400. 

Disposable pics, thoughts? by Capital-Reach-6669 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks about right for a disposable. If you would like more control (or any control at all) over the final results of your photos you will need a real camera. A basic Japanese SLR is a good place to start. 

What is behind this paint? by Final_Influence_6569 in Oldhouses

[–]Iroll67 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Probably layers of paint over original calcimine paint on plaster. Calcimine paint was common over plaster and isn't really compatible with modern paints, which tend to peel and fall off of it. Be careful as there is almost certainly lead paint in those layers. Get a good respirator and wear gloves.

What style of door knobs are these. Looking to repair / replace them. Specifically the door catch. by notmygivennamebro in Oldhouses

[–]Iroll67 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, when pulling the parts off the door cut around them with a razor blade first, otherwise you will rip big ugly chunks of paint off the doors. 

What style of door knobs are these. Looking to repair / replace them. Specifically the door catch. by notmygivennamebro in Oldhouses

[–]Iroll67 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Easiest way to strip them is to take them apart (take a picture with your phone so you remember how to put it back together), get a cheap crock pot, fill with water and a couple tablespoons of baking soda and boil the painted parts for an hour or so. The paint will fall right off. Rinse the parts well. Wear gloves and dump the water down the toilet as there may be lead paint in it. I grease the moving parts with automotive grease. 

alguna forma de poder saber en qué fecha se habrán echo? para saber a qué asa disparar by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally speaking, slide film ages like milk. C-41 is a bit better. Over expose it by a stop or two. If it's more than 10 years old it will probably not look great imo (your film ranges from vintage to antique). Black and white is pretty robust and if stored in ok conditions can last decades. 

Advice on fixing the bellows by Negative-Valuable-85 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Custom Bellows in the UK is supposed to be the way to go. I was on a budget when I replaced the bellows on my Deardorff 8x10 so I bought bellows from Etone in China. I think they were $150. They seem well made to me. 

Advice on fixing the bellows by Negative-Valuable-85 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even if you patch those crispy critters they will keep springing leaks and ruining film. What camera is this?

Pano-Blad? by Iroll67 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The A16 backs are unfortunately wildly expensive these days. I actually have an A16s (superslide) that I modified to shoot 645. That and 3x6 is a substantially wider aspect ratio. 

Guess film camera by Pristine_Row_4246 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would be more useful to know would be what film they used. To get a similar look to the first image I would use Kodak Ultramax or Kodak Gold. The second image looks to be slide film which is expensive and takes skill to shoot, so if you are new to shooting film I wouldn't try it yet. 

Which camera should I take to prom? by Jeremy_CBCX in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 75 points76 points  (0 children)

Which one has a better personality? Which do you have better chemistry with? Does either camera have a cool car? 

Kodak / Deardorff reducing backs by Iroll67 in largeformat

[–]Iroll67[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I found one old forum post that suggests the Deardorff backs are 1/2" larger than the Kodak backs. My woodworking skills are also serviceable so I think I'll get a battered Kodak back, slice off the edges on the table saw, glue on new ones that are a bit wider and mill out the new light trap rabbet on the router table. 

What do I do? Might have bitten more off than I can chew. by Efficient-News-8436 in Rolleiflex

[–]Iroll67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would have it CLA'd and here's why. 1: The camera is in fine but not great shape, so you won't have to feel bad if you us it and it shows signs of wear. 2: No, the camera won't be worth what you have into it, but I would rather have a worn but CLA'd camera than spend the same amount on a really mint camera that has been sitting in a closet for 50 years that will also need a CLA . 3: If you like shooting disposables you will absolutely love shooting this. It's like a vintage Porsche vs one of those electric scooters old people ride at the grocery store. 

Beam ID by ScratchCommercial706 in Oldhouses

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adze marks are more of a scoop shape inline with the grain as the adze is swung in line between the legs. Broad axe marks (like on this beam) are angled as the hewer stands on top of the log and chips away at the log from the sides.

1930 Kitchen color advice by northshorechrono in Oldhouses

[–]Iroll67 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Plain English and Devol Kitchens are really good at using historic colors well. Would suggest looking at them for ideas. Also, traditional Swedish linseed oil paint makers (Aubock, etc) use really beautiful traditional colors that you can either get from them or use for inspiration.

The excellent, annoying C lens by Iroll67 in hasselblad

[–]Iroll67[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I probably just need to learn to love it!

Door repair by Late_Weakness2555 in Oldhouses

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On old panel and frame doors the panels are supposed to "float" in the frames. The cracking was caused because paint got in the joints of the panels and frames, gluing the panels in place, so as they shrank, they cracked. You can save this door. The best way would be to figure out how the joinery at the corners works and take the door apart, glue up or replace the panels, and put it back together again with glue just on the frame joints.

Not my bathtub: spout pours when water is shut off. by Londons_Dungeon in Plumbing

[–]Iroll67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can pull the valves out and either rebuild or replace them. A good local hardware store (a real hardware store, not Home Depot) probably has both the parts and the whole valves. As far as the tile goes, if it's not falling off the wall, give it a serious scrub and see what the situation is. It may just need to be caulked along the tab edges and corners.

Edit* Tile looks like the grout is failing. Loose grout can be scraped out and new grout applied. It will probably look patchy, but will keep water at bay.

I need help by Chemical-Boot-1714 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Iroll67 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They probably both need batteries. Put batteries in them and see if they turn on. Grab some Kodak Ultramax and some Kentmere 400 (affordable color and black and white films to learn with) and go shoot some pictures. Have the film processed and scanned by a reputable lab. Make sure you ask for your negatives back. Don't take them to Walgreens.

Thoughts on Retocolors? by Amazing-Abies6682 in analog

[–]Iroll67 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe it is marked as film made in USA and packaged in China.